[03_StangGuy]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter True, but you'd also have to isolate geometry from spring rate to have scientifically valid results. Most, if not all, lowering springs have increased rate over stock both because a stiffer spring is going to afford more body control and with the shorter range of travel you need the increased stiffness to not bottom out. That increased stiffness is going to resist weight transfer, which will cost some grip off-the-line compared to a car that can get 100% of it's weight over the rear tires at launch. So, really, you'd need 4 setups to get a valid comparison: stock height w/ stock spring rate; lowered w/stock spring rate; stock height w/stiffer springs; lowered w/stiffer springs.

The stiffer springs will affect weight transfer but better geometry will create better leverage. The added leverage might actually work better with stiffer springs cuz you getting back to the stock loading of the suspension. Im sure some has tested this things at some point, our mustangs have been around for ever.

[Steedagus]

Originally Posted by Jazzer The Cat SteedaTJ has linked an upper for an S197, by mistake. You really (<--- cannot emphisize enough!) should use one with a spherical end, as mentioned above. I don't see on on the Steeda site, but pretty sure they have one.

Hey Jazzer, I wouldnt necessarily call what TJ did a mistake. The poster is obviously worried about NVH, he even re-iterated that the sphericals typically have NVH after it was suggested he go with sphericals.

So TJ's suggestion is technically a better choice if NVH is a concern, although obviously bind is more of a concern with bushings vs the spherical, but for what he seems to be be trying to achieve this should not be a factor.

Just my opinion based on what I understood he wanted.

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by Steedagus Hey Jazzer, I wouldnt necessarily call what TJ did a mistake.

The mistake is that the OP has a New Edge, not an S197.

[03_StangGuy]

Originally Posted by Steedagus Hey Jazzer, I wouldnt necessarily call what TJ did a mistake. The poster is obviously worried about NVH, he even re-iterated that the sphericals typically have NVH after it was suggested he go with sphericals. So TJ's suggestion is technically a better choice if NVH is a concern, although obviously bind is more of a concern with bushings vs the spherical, but for what he seems to be be trying to achieve this should not be a factor. Just my opinion based on what I understood he wanted.

I obviously dont want any issue with bind. I dont know at what level that would come into to though. I also know some people are more sensitive to NVH than others so its a lil hard to judge.

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter The mistake is that the OP has a New Edge, not an S197.

jokes, nice

[DickH]

I have baseline relocated uppers, look into them. Relocating the control arms changes the rear geometry, can help or hurt depending on how everything sits when you are done. The relocated uppers are made more for drag, where it changes the IC (think of it as a leverage point) so that weight transfer isnt absorbed by the springs, but instead it transfers through the suspension and pushes the tires down. It is possible to set up your rear so that your ass end picks up when you accelerate, but that is not desirable. You can experience that while turning with some drag oriented relocated lower control arms, and that will likely have negative results for handling.

Personally I wouldn't enjoy the ride of stiffer springs with the relocated uppers, stock springs seem to be just fine. If you get the relocated uppers (baseline or team z) first thing you will notice is your car doesn't really squat on acceleration anymore. You will also have to get used to your springs not dampening the weight transfer. Overall though id say it improved my traction, but you might have to play with ride height and shock/strut settings before you see any gains.

I think your best bet might be to switch over to a torque arm, its as close as you are getting to having a rear setup that is good for straight line and turns. Although not the absolute best for drag, its still an improvement over the stock rear geometry and a few people have gone pretty fast with them.

[BaznastyDave]

Cobra's hook pretty dang good. That IRS bites hard but can wheel hop but there is upgades that eliminates the hop. Find the right guy and they would prob trade you straight up for your straight axle. Just a fyi to look into, these other guys know more about it than I do im just a straight line dude.

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by 03_StangGuy jokes, nice

Hahahah - I wasn't saying that owning a New Edge was a mistake, though reading my post I could see where someone might think that

I was just pointing out the error that Jazzer had pointed out that was missed by the second Steeda rep, which was that the first Steeda rep linked a part for an S197 when you don't have an S197.

[Jazzer The Cat]

^ excuses, nice

Jazzer

[03_StangGuy]

Originally Posted by DickH You will also have to get used to your springs not dampening the weight transfer. Overall though id say it improved my traction, but you might have to play with ride height and shock/strut settings before you see any gains. I think your best bet might be to switch over to a torque arm, its as close as you are getting to having a rear setup that is good for straight line and turns. Although not the absolute best for drag, its still an improvement over the stock rear geometry and a few people have gone pretty fast with them.

What do you mean by the springs not dampening that weight transfer? I was lookin at a torque arm.pnahard bar setup, it just seems pretty pricey for bolt on parts.

Originally Posted by BaznastyDave Cobra's hook pretty dang good. That IRS bites hard but can wheel hop but there is upgades that eliminates the hop. Find the right guy and they would prob trade you straight up for your straight axle. Just a fyi to look into, these other guys know more about it than I do im just a straight line dude.

Im not looking to redo the whole rear end. I dont hate the handling I just want to make it a lil better.

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter Hahahah - I wasn't saying that owning a New Edge was a mistake, though reading my post I could see where someone might think that I was just pointing out the error that Jazzer had pointed out that was missed by the second Steeda rep, which was that the first Steeda rep linked a part for an S197 when you don't have an S197.

I gotcha.

[cbjohnson9]

Originally Posted by 03_StangGuy I was lookin at a torque arm.pnahard bar setup, it just seems pretty pricey for bolt on parts.

They're pricey b/c your not just replacing stock components with better pieces; you're completely revamping the suspension geometry of the SRA.

[03_StangGuy]

Originally Posted by cbjohnson9 They're pricey b/c your not just replacing stock components with better pieces; you're completely revamping the suspension geometry of the SRA.

I understand but come on its a basically just two tubes, that mount to the axle and by the transmission. Unless im missing something about it.

For the Torque arm, MM says on their sit you need a panhard bar before the torque? Is this because too much movement is bad for the torque arm?

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by 03_StangGuy I understand but come on its a basically just two tubes, that mount to the axle and by the transmission. Unless im missing something about it. For the Torque arm, MM says on their sit you need a panhard bar before the torque? Is this because too much movement is bad for the torque arm?

Not really, it's a matter of what those parts are doing.

In the 4-link, the UCAs control two aspects of motion of the rear axle: they prevent axle wrap, and they prevent side-to-side motion.

In a TA setup, you remove the UCAs, and replace them with control arms that each only have one task; the TA controls axle wrap, and the panhard bar controls side-to-side motion. It's no longer a "triangulated 4-link" at that point.

[03_StangGuy]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter Not really, it's a matter of what those parts are doing. In the 4-link, the UCAs control two aspects of motion of the rear axle: they prevent axle wrap, and they prevent side-to-side motion. In a TA setup, you remove the UCAs, and replace them with control arms that each only have one task; the TA controls axle wrap, and the panhard bar controls side-to-side motion. It's no longer a "triangulated 4-link" at that point.

I understand that much, but can a torque arm be run without a panhard bar if i left in the upper contol arms?

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by 03_StangGuy I understand that much, but can a torque arm be run without a panhard bar if i left in the upper contol arms?

You wouldn't want to do that. The combination of upper and lower control arms determines one set of suspension geometry, the LCAs and torque arm determines a separate, conflicting set of geometry. I don't think the suspension could even articulate at that point, outside of the small amount allowed by deflection in the various bushings, as it would have to simultaneously rotate about two discrete points.

Short answer: no.

[03_StangGuy]

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter You wouldn't want to do that. The combination of upper and lower control arms determines one set of suspension geometry, the LCAs and torque arm determines a separate, conflicting set of geometry. I don't think the suspension could even articulate at that point, outside of the small amount allowed by deflection in the various bushings, as it would have to simultaneously rotate about two discrete points. Short answer: no.

Thats what I was afraid of. hmmm what to do.

[ReverendDexter]

Originally Posted by 03_StangGuy Thats what I was afraid of. hmmm what to do.

Originally Posted by ReverendDexter tl;dr *LCA relocation brackets *FL-SFCs (welded in) *UCAs - spherical bushed/adjustable length.

[Long Stroke]

I think we are over complicating it here.

Get yourself a good set of adjustable uppers and lowers with poly bushings. Dial your pinion angle in (-2.5 is a good starting point) and let her rip. I agree you will mostlikely need to upgrade your tires.

I run all Steeda suspension on my heap. Double adjustable uppers with bearings at both ends. But for a long time I ran bearings at the axle end of the uppers and lowers and bushings at the chassis. This cut down on the NVH big time. Then after a couple years of turning low 1.40 sixty foots on radials I made the upgrade to bearings at all ends of the uppers and lowers. I run the Steeda weight jacker lowers which is nice because you can adjust your ride height and your F/R ratio. The other beauty is all the Steeda parts can be upgraded, meaning I didn't have to purchase new lowers or uppers when I stepped my game up.

Now my car cuts consistant bottom 1.3 sixty foots, all at 3400 lbs and on a 275/60 Drag radial. Thats just using off the shelf parts, nothing fancy here.

Oh, and here is the correct link guys

http://www.steeda.com/store/steeda-h...d-mustang.html