[BC03]

Hey guys its been a little while for me on here...I just got a couple of questions since its maybe about that time for an oil change. Its been roughly 3k miles since my last oil change. I got full synthetic pennzoil put in for my last change.

First off, I was under the impression that synthetic oil easily lasted 5k + miles, however the people who changed my oil listed my next oil change for 3k miles later (and i notice alot of you guys routinely change it every 3k miles). My car is my DD so I dont drive it too hard. Will I be fine going 5k~ miles on this oil or should I go ahead and get it changed soon. I have 150K miles on my car. Also, is pennzoil a good synthetic oil or would Royal Purple be WAY better?

For the second matter, I was talking to a mechanic the other day and he told me that it wasn't safe for your engine to start using full synthetic if your vehicle hasn't been taking full synthetic from the start. He said it would be better to use a mix. Is there any truth to this? I had never heard this before so I took what he was saying with a grain of salt. There is also no way of me knowing if my engine has been taking full synthetic from the start....sooooo.... (I have owned my car for only about 6K miles)

let me know what you guys think...THANKS

[number1gt]

I change mine every 3k regardless, 0w30 is the best oil to run in my opinion

[LEADiNG-EDGE]

I work @ Express Shop Here over in Nissan,

People sometimes put 3000 on a 5000 oil change, It Happens..

Normal oil Is good for 3,750 Miles..
Synthetic Is good for 5,000-5,500 Miles..

No test or proof, thats just me
& Dont worry about changing from regular to synthetic, It wont hurt.. Just keep going synthetic.. dont go back.

I would change mine out every 5000, and It was fine [Mobil1Syntheic]

And BTW Penzoil is the worst oil you can use.. FYI

[BC03]

Originally Posted by LEADiNG-EDGE And BTW Penzoil is the worst oil you can use.. FYI

Well crap...that was just my luck then..

[Cabikejumper]

I've been told if you use shitty penzoil. Don't use anything else. My tuner told me RP is shit too

[dhicks7806]

Actually, there was a lot of research done on another forum(I think it was NASIOC subaru) that proved mobil 1 was actually the worst synthetic oil...I can try to find the thread If you like, but use rotella t6 in my cars.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

[Cabikejumper]

It was on nasioc. But its a good oil. Just not for Subaru. It's been linked to the proof on there. I used t6 on mine.

[Eagle2000GT]

I'm sorry but most of what you've been told is crap. Let's start with dyno oil. The long time recommend oil change for dyno oil is 3,000-8,000 miles depending upon if you drive city or highway miles. All city is of course 3,000 and all highway is 8,000. Believe me if you change your oil on the east cost and decide to drive to California, four days later you do not need to change your oil even if it is dyno oil.

I was told that if you didn't start your car out on synthetic oil it would leak when you changed over. I bought the car at 65,000 miles, changed it over and it leaked not a drop. It only used 1/2 quart every 5,000 miles. So full synthetic didn't increase normal oil usage either. Dyno or full synthetic I change oil every 5,000 miles because I drive a lot of highway miles. I have done this for years and the motors have outlasted the cars.

I ran full synthetic Quaker State 5w30 for about 90,000 miles. I have recently changed over to full synthetic 0w30 because it has better cold start protection.

I shredded a belt, had a bad tensioner and tore a hole in my timing chain cover. To fix it the mechanic had to remove not only the timing cover, but also the valve covers. The car has 157,000 miles on it. I told them to replace anything that was bad thinking the timing chain guides would be worn out. They were not. They said they couldn't believe how clean the motor was for 157,000. Full synthetic works. By the way, this shop know that if they told me my motor was bad they would have a rebuild order (forged internals of course) in that day.

There are more myths about oil than facts. I recommed that you attend "Motor Oil University." It is located on the right hand side of the link below. You will discover that its not oil pressure but oil flow that protect the motor, that you should run the lightest weight oil that provides 10 psi for every 1000 rpms, that what seems to be thinner full synthetic oil actually leave a better protective shield than thicker dyno oil. A Phd in engineering wrote most of the articles and they have been submitted for peer review--other engineers and specialisty have reviewed them for accuracy.

I started the link at oil 101. These were the most informative oil articles I have ever read:
Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy

[aarongt2000]

Originally Posted by Eagle2000GT I'm sorry but most of what you've been told is crap. Let's start with dyno oil. The long time recommend oil change for dyno oil is 3,000-8,000 miles depending upon if you drive city or highway miles. All city is of course 3,000 and all highway is 8,000. Believe me if you change your oil on the east cost and decide to drive to California, four days later you do not need to change your oil even if it is dyno oil. I was told that if you didn't start your car out on synthetic oil it would leak when you changed over. I bought the car at 65,000 miles, changed it over and it leaked not a drop. It only used 1/2 quart every 5,000 miles. So full synthetic didn't increase normal oil usage either. Dyno or full synthetic I change oil every 5,000 miles because I drive a lot of highway miles. I have done this for years and the motors have outlasted the cars. I ran full synthetic Quaker State 5w30 for about 90,000 miles. I have recently changed over to full synthetic 0w30 because it has better cold start protection. I shredded a belt, had a bad tensioner and tore a hole in my timing chain cover. To fix it the mechanic had to remove not only the timing cover, but also the valve covers. The car has 157,000 miles on it. I told them to replace anything that was bad thinking the timing chain guides would be worn out. They were not. They said they couldn't believe how clean the motor was for 157,000. Full synthetic works. By the way, this shop know that if they told me my motor was bad they would have a rebuild order (forged internals of course) in that day. There are more myths about oil than facts. I recommed that you attend "Motor Oil University." It is located on the right hand side of the link below. You will discover that its not oil pressure but oil flow that protect the motor, that you should run the lightest weight oil that provides 10 psi for every 1000 rpms, that what seems to be thinner full synthetic oil actually leave a better protective shield than thicker dyno oil. A Phd in engineering wrote most of the articles and they have been submitted for peer review--other engineers and specialisty have reviewed them for accuracy. I started the link at oil 101. These were the most informative oil articles I have ever read: Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy

bob the oil guy just made me decide to run 0-20 mobil 1

[SON1C]

why would ford say to run 5w20 if we shouldnt run that?

why use w30 opposed to w20

wouldnt 5w30 be better?

why is 0w30 mobil 1 green capped?

[Eagle2000GT]

Originally Posted by SteeD43 why would ford say to run 5w20 if we shouldnt run that? why use w30 opposed to w20 wouldnt 5w30 be better? why is 0w30 mobil 1 green capped?

Ford used to recommend dyno 5w30. They changed their recommendation to dyno 5w20 in 2001 to meet federal fleet gas mileage requirements. They recommended dyno oil because its cheaper and 99% of the drivers don't need anything better. w30 oil maintains its lubricating properties at higher tempatures than w20 oil. As temperature increases (as in driving hard) oil gets thinner. Oil tempature and water tempature are unrelated. The normal operating tempature of oil is around 212* but under hard usage it can get to 230-240*. So for those who drive hard (most of us) w30 oil is better. 0w30 Mobil 1 has a green cap because they are advertising that its a more environmentally friendly oil. It's suppose to increase your gas mileage a little bit.

[cbjohnson9]

I completely agree with Eagle.

In racing conditions, oil can reach as high as 300*F. The only reason one would need to go from *W20 to *W30 oil is if they saw an insufficient amount of pressure in the upper rpms. The viscosity difference between the two is actually very minimal at operating temperature, and pretty much nonexistant up at 300*F, but enough to make a difference if pressure is an issue. This is why you'll see some "racing" oils in the 50W area.

My engine builder recommended I go with a 30 weight oil for my new motor due to the clearances being slightly larger (i'm talking like an extra thousandth of an inch), and due to the fact that I'll probably being revving the motor past OEM limit.

Another reason to go to a thicker viscoity is if you're getting lash ticking around idle at operating temperature. My lash adjusters starting ticking with 5W20 RP in my stock motor. It sounded like injector pulsing but louder. I switched to 5W30 RP and the ticking at idle went away.

[SON1C]

id rep you eagle but i cant again yet lol

alright so 0w30 mobil 1 will be engaged, going to pick it up from walmart where its advertised at 27.19 a 5 quart, i guess ill try and find a good % coupon of walmart runs those and pick up several jugs

[BC03]

Thanks guys for the advice....especially eagle2000gt...ill make sure to read up on that article...ill prolly wait a little longer for a change because the majority of my miles are highway...also, what exactly do you mean by "cold start protection"? do you just mean protection from when the car has been sitting a long time? or just cold starts for everyday driving?

[Eagle2000GT]

A cold start is technically anytime the car has set and the oil has cooled off. It doesn't mean winter time tempatures. A cold start can occur even if the air tempature is in the 90s. Oil flow is inhibited by the thicker oil.

[SSG Pate]

I run Full synthetic in all my cars/SUV. I changed my SUV over at 100,000. it now has about 140 on the clock and no issues Yet. I only change my oil ONCE a year in the spring with the exception of my new stroker, I am following break in procedures. I cant tell you how much money I have saved in oil changes over the last 4 years since I switched over to Full Synthetic Amsoil. The oil I buy is recomnded up to 25,000 or 1 year. Also the oil filter is good for one year. when I change them in the spring the oil is still brown. Best thing I have ever done for my cars.

[BC03]

Originally Posted by Eagle2000GT A cold start is technically anytime the car has set and the oil has cooled off. It doesn't mean winter time tempatures. A cold start can occur even if the air tempature is in the 90s. Oil flow is inhibited by the thicker oil.

OK. Thanks for clearing that up for me!