Car won't start

Nossit · January 23rd, 2012, 08:17 PM

I know there are some threads out there that discuss this but none with my combination. If there is, link it to me and I'll apologize.

I let my car sit through some cold months and decided to get it out on a warm day early december. It wouldn't start so I charged the battery enough to get it started. Once started, I let it idle for a while then took it for a spin. I let the car warm up and drove it for about 15 min after it was warm.

When I went to my grandparents house, I turned the car off. This is when the trouble started. I turned my car on and it ran like crap. So I look down and the theft light is on. I turn my car off cause it sounded terrible. When I went to turn it back on after this, the theft light came on and just cranked. I get out and reset the battery. While cranking, the battery dies again. This made me to think its the battery or the key "went bad."

I jump it off my grandpa's car and it drove home fine with the theft light on. I just parked it after that. Today we charged the battery for a while and there is no theft light on but it still just cranks. I put in another battery and get the same result. Then I test the schrader valve on the fuel rail and nothing at all comes out at all. No pressure.... I laid down under the back of the car and I can't hear the fuel pump when my dad turned the key.

NOW I swap the relay for the fuel pump with the one next to it and get the same result. Now I'm wondering if its the fuel pump. The reset button is pressed all the way down and I haven't seen the theft light since I charged the battery. I just don't understand why this started with the battery, then the theft light, and now the fuel pump.

Any help on figuring this out or any opinions on what is going on? Sorry if that was a huge story, I just like to get the details out of the way. Next step for me was going to be pulling the fuel filter out and seeing if that's clear.

NickPohlAandP · January 23rd, 2012, 08:27 PM

Alternator

Nossit · January 23rd, 2012, 08:32 PM

Originally Posted by NickPohlAandP

Alternator

Even with there being no pressure on the schrader valve?

dhicks7806 · January 23rd, 2012, 08:34 PM

Originally Posted by NickPohlAandP

Alternator

Ehh idk, if his battery was dead and he just jumped it, I don't think he would have been able to let the car warm up and then drive it without it dying on him...I would lean more towards a PATS issue or fpdm/fuel pump/filter.

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Nossit · January 23rd, 2012, 08:37 PM

See I thought it was a PATS issue until I hit that schrader valve and nothing happened. The theft light isn't on anymore. If it was pats, how would I know and how would I fix it? Is it as easy as a new key or just buy a tuner?

dhicks7806 · January 23rd, 2012, 08:51 PM

Originally Posted by Nossit

See I thought it was a PATS issue until I hit that schrader valve and nothing happened. The theft light isn't on anymore. If it was pats, how would I know and how would I fix it? Is it as easy as a new key or just buy a tuner?

I am sorry I can't answer that for you...I just know that people have had similar issues when the theft light is on, but if it's off now I would check into the fuel system. I recently had problems with my fpdm and the car ran like dog shit- PIG rich- mine ended up being a hot ground, but I would check voltage in and out of the fpdm. Google will provide you with diagrams to check the correct pins. Or perhaps someone else will know more about pats and be able to offer a suggestion on that...

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TheOdessa · January 23rd, 2012, 08:54 PM

Advance auto parts or similar stores will test your alternator and/or battery for free. You can also test it easily with a OHM meter. Google how to test it.

I'd do that before dropped the gas tank and getting into that mess of replacing the pump.

Did you turn the key in the on position to where the pump primes itself then tested pressure at the shrader valve?

If you have to continually jump it to go, I'd lean toward the alternator.

Nossit · January 23rd, 2012, 08:57 PM

Ya know I honestly can't remember if it was on. That would have been real dumb. I couldn't hear the pump whine like I used to when I turned the key on I know that. I'll make sure I didn't drop the ball on that tomorrow when I get home from work.

2vStangGt · January 23rd, 2012, 08:59 PM

WOW im having the same exact problem with the theft light except mine dies while driving and the theft light starts blinking real quick and the odameter shows dashes and not miles then it just cranks like there is no fuel and when it dies the battery looses juice asap then ill have to wait 30mins or so and jump it and it'll start back up. If you guys can help me also . I am taking my car to ford dealership so they can diagnose my car and tell me whats wrong with it . I was thinking the key is sending wrong signal to the PATS system in the car and telling it not to start???

dhicks7806 · January 23rd, 2012, 09:00 PM

Originally Posted by TheOdessa

Advance auto parts or similar stores will test your alternator and/or battery for free. You can also test it easily with a OHM meter. Google how to test it.

I'd do that before dropped the gas tank and getting into that mess of replacing the pump.

Did you turn the key in the on position to where the pump primes itself then tested pressure at the shrader valve?

If you have to continually jump it to go, I'd lean toward the alternator.

He put another battery in and it still just cranked, Alternator would explain battery not being charged properly or car dying while driving, but not just cranking with a fresh battery.

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2vStangGt · January 23rd, 2012, 09:04 PM

I put brand new battery in mine a week ago when this problem began started right up and now the battery dies everytime the car dies.

USN03GT · January 23rd, 2012, 09:06 PM

Originally Posted by 2vStangGt

WOW im having the same exact problem with the theft light except mine dies while driving and the theft light starts blinking real quick and the odameter shows dashes and not miles then it just cranks like there is no fuel and when it dies the battery looses juice asap then ill have to wait 30mins or so and jump it and it'll start back up. If you guys can help me also . I am taking my car to ford dealership so they can diagnose my car and tell me whats wrong with it . I was thinking the key is sending wrong signal to the PATS system in the car and telling it not to start???

You need to check the alternator while car is running take a volt meter and pull the rubber insolator cap of the top of the alternator and red prong on the nut black on a bolt some where on the block and if it reads below 12 replace it. I just went throught the same thing and im not kidding identical and I jumped it off checked the voltage and this thing was puttin out 8 volts and some change but fixed it in ten minutes in the autozone parking lot

2vStangGt · January 23rd, 2012, 09:14 PM

Originally Posted by USN03GT

You need to check the alternator while car is running take a volt meter and pull the rubber insolator cap of the top of the alternator and red prong on the nut black on a bolt some where on the block and if it reads below 12 replace it. I just went throught the same thing and im not kidding identical and I jumped it off checked the voltage and this thing was puttin out 8 volts and some change but fixed it in ten minutes in the autozone parking lot

Thanks . I remember we checked the alternator and I think it was good I dont remember what it put out though.... Can someone tell me what voltage its suppose to put out ? I dropped the tank and fuel pump the fuel pump looked brand new like someone just put it in the whole kit? Yes I just got this car off a trade ..01 Mustang Gt 5spd

USN03GT · January 23rd, 2012, 09:18 PM

Originally Posted by 2vStangGt

Thanks . I remember we checked the alternator and I think it was good I dont remember what it put out though.... Can someone tell me what voltage its suppose to put out ? I dropped the tank and fuel pump the fuel pump looked brand new like someone just put it in the whole kit? Yes I just got this car off a trade ..01 Mustang Gt 5spd

should be puttin out 13volts or so under a load (by under a load i mean normal driving 1500-2500 rpm) but the problem i had with mine was it would run good for a couple of days then shit would hit the fan and the volt meter would start decreasing then hit a bump and bam jump back up to normal operating conditions, as if there was a loose connection some where later found out there is a circuit board in the alternator and that is where the loose connection was that was causing all my problems but new alternator she is running like a champ

2vStangGt · January 23rd, 2012, 09:22 PM

Originally Posted by USN03GT

should be puttin out 13volts or so under a load (by under a load i mean normal driving 1500-2500 rpm) but the problem i had with mine was it would run good for a couple of days then shit would hit the fan and the volt meter would start decreasing then hit a bump and bam jump back up to normal operating conditions, as if there was a loose connection some where later found out there is a circuit board in the alternator and that is where the loose connection was that was causing all my problems but new alternator she is running like a champ

So when I go to check it have them rev it it to 1500-2500 ? Thanks for your help man wish everything goes easy and smooth . Same as the OP

USN03GT · January 23rd, 2012, 09:25 PM

Originally Posted by 2vStangGt

So when I go to check it have them rev it it to 1500-2500 ? Thanks for your help man wish everything goes easy and smooth . Same as the OP

nah dont rev it you hold it there when i used to check them for autozone i would always have them hold it at 2300-2500 but the manual on our tester said 1500-2500

Nossit · January 28th, 2012, 09:32 AM

Alright guys here's where I'm at, I turned the key on and the theft light stayed on. It obviously wouldn't start and it had no fuel pressure on that schrader valve. Does Pats turn off the fuel pump? I thought it just killed the spark....

If it does, then I guess I need a new key (which I don't have). Will Ford make me a key? I know its expensive but whats you all's opinion?

Could I just get a tuner and turn off PATS or do I need a key?

2vStangGt · January 28th, 2012, 11:34 AM

Take ur title to Ford and get a new key . Bought one for my dads 99 f-150 they charged 200... Yeah it sucks... But sounds like PATS system is wrong with urs along with mines . Wish you luck if you do get a key . Keep us updated....

Can PATS system be shut off ?

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laoutlaw01 · January 28th, 2012, 12:11 PM

Originally Posted by 2vStangGt

Take ur title to Ford and get a new key . Bought one for my dads 99 f-150 they charged 200... Yeah it sucks... But sounds like PATS system is wrong with urs along with mines . Wish you luck if you do get a key . Keep us updated....

Can PATS system be shut off ?

Sent from my PH44100 using Tapatalk

Pats can be turned off with a tune .

2vStangGt · January 28th, 2012, 12:24 PM

Will any one recommend this and have they done it ?

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January 23rd, 2012, 08:17 PM	#1
Nossit Hardcore Enthusiast 1999 Mustang GT 8.65@72.5mph 1/8th Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Southern WV Posts: 1,130 iTrader: 0 reviews	Car won't start I know there are some threads out there that discuss this but none with my combination. If there is, link it to me and I'll apologize. I let my car sit through some cold months and decided to get it out on a warm day early december. It wouldn't start so I charged the battery enough to get it started. Once started, I let it idle for a while then took it for a spin. I let the car warm up and drove it for about 15 min after it was warm. When I went to my grandparents house, I turned the car off. This is when the trouble started. I turned my car on and it ran like crap. So I look down and the theft light is on. I turn my car off cause it sounded terrible. When I went to turn it back on after this, the theft light came on and just cranked. I get out and reset the battery. While cranking, the battery dies again. This made me to think its the battery or the key "went bad." I jump it off my grandpa's car and it drove home fine with the theft light on. I just parked it after that. Today we charged the battery for a while and there is no theft light on but it still just cranks. I put in another battery and get the same result. Then I test the schrader valve on the fuel rail and nothing at all comes out at all. No pressure.... I laid down under the back of the car and I can't hear the fuel pump when my dad turned the key. NOW I swap the relay for the fuel pump with the one next to it and get the same result. Now I'm wondering if its the fuel pump. The reset button is pressed all the way down and I haven't seen the theft light since I charged the battery. I just don't understand why this started with the battery, then the theft light, and now the fuel pump. Any help on figuring this out or any opinions on what is going on? Sorry if that was a huge story, I just like to get the details out of the way. Next step for me was going to be pulling the fuel filter out and seeing if that's clear. __________________ 1999 Mustang GT - K&N drop in, Mac Prochamber, Mac CB, 555r's, 31 spline Strange axles, and 4.10's

January 23rd, 2012, 08:27 PM	#2
NickPohlAandP I like boobs!!! 2000 GT convertible dunno Join Date: May 2011 Location: Brooklet, GA Posts: 2,827 iTrader: 2 reviews	Alternator __________________ Last time you voted to prove you aren't racist. This time prove you're not an IDIOT!!! My Garage--->http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...-member-46919/

January 23rd, 2012, 08:37 PM	#5
Nossit Hardcore Enthusiast 1999 Mustang GT 8.65@72.5mph 1/8th Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Southern WV Posts: 1,130 iTrader: 0 reviews	See I thought it was a PATS issue until I hit that schrader valve and nothing happened. The theft light isn't on anymore. If it was pats, how would I know and how would I fix it? Is it as easy as a new key or just buy a tuner? __________________ 1999 Mustang GT - K&N drop in, Mac Prochamber, Mac CB, 555r's, 31 spline Strange axles, and 4.10's

January 23rd, 2012, 08:54 PM	#7
TheOdessa Chitty Chitty Bang Bang 2001 Mustang GT Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Tampa, Florida Posts: 1,254 iTrader: 2 reviews	Advance auto parts or similar stores will test your alternator and/or battery for free. You can also test it easily with a OHM meter. Google how to test it. I'd do that before dropped the gas tank and getting into that mess of replacing the pump. Did you turn the key in the on position to where the pump primes itself then tested pressure at the shrader valve? If you have to continually jump it to go, I'd lean toward the alternator. __________________ 2001 Mustang GT 5-Speed God Created Man, but Sam Colt Made Them Equal

January 23rd, 2012, 08:57 PM	#8
Nossit Hardcore Enthusiast 1999 Mustang GT 8.65@72.5mph 1/8th Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Southern WV Posts: 1,130 iTrader: 0 reviews	Ya know I honestly can't remember if it was on. That would have been real dumb. I couldn't hear the pump whine like I used to when I turned the key on I know that. I'll make sure I didn't drop the ball on that tomorrow when I get home from work. __________________ 1999 Mustang GT - K&N drop in, Mac Prochamber, Mac CB, 555r's, 31 spline Strange axles, and 4.10's

January 23rd, 2012, 08:59 PM	#9
2vStangGt Enthusiast 01 Mustang Gt Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Kansas City MO Posts: 568 iTrader: 1 reviews	WOW im having the same exact problem with the theft light except mine dies while driving and the theft light starts blinking real quick and the odameter shows dashes and not miles then it just cranks like there is no fuel and when it dies the battery looses juice asap then ill have to wait 30mins or so and jump it and it'll start back up. If you guys can help me also . I am taking my car to ford dealership so they can diagnose my car and tell me whats wrong with it . I was thinking the key is sending wrong signal to the PATS system in the car and telling it not to start???

January 23rd, 2012, 09:04 PM	#11
2vStangGt Enthusiast 01 Mustang Gt Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Kansas City MO Posts: 568 iTrader: 1 reviews	I put brand new battery in mine a week ago when this problem began started right up and now the battery dies everytime the car dies.

January 28th, 2012, 09:32 AM	#17
Nossit Hardcore Enthusiast 1999 Mustang GT 8.65@72.5mph 1/8th Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Southern WV Posts: 1,130 iTrader: 0 reviews	Alright guys here's where I'm at, I turned the key on and the theft light stayed on. It obviously wouldn't start and it had no fuel pressure on that schrader valve. Does Pats turn off the fuel pump? I thought it just killed the spark.... If it does, then I guess I need a new key (which I don't have). Will Ford make me a key? I know its expensive but whats you all's opinion? Could I just get a tuner and turn off PATS or do I need a key? __________________ 1999 Mustang GT - K&N drop in, Mac Prochamber, Mac CB, 555r's, 31 spline Strange axles, and 4.10's

January 28th, 2012, 11:34 AM	#18
2vStangGt Enthusiast 01 Mustang Gt Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Kansas City MO Posts: 568 iTrader: 1 reviews	Take ur title to Ford and get a new key . Bought one for my dads 99 f-150 they charged 200... Yeah it sucks... But sounds like PATS system is wrong with urs along with mines . Wish you luck if you do get a key . Keep us updated.... Can PATS system be shut off ? Sent from my PH44100 using Tapatalk

January 28th, 2012, 12:24 PM	#20
2vStangGt Enthusiast 01 Mustang Gt Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Kansas City MO Posts: 568 iTrader: 1 reviews	Will any one recommend this and have they done it ? Sent from my PH44100 using Tapatalk

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