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#1 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 7
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99-04 AC COMPRESSOR BYPASS
First off here are some reasons to bypass your AC
-Performance: Going to the drag strip? On a perfectly functional AC compressor it takes about 6 horsepower to run you gain an instant 6 horsepower back. If you have an old compressor and AC mechanical issues you might gain much much more horsepower from the pulley drag alone. -Life Span: An effect way to save your compressor pulley extra and two idle pulleys work and gain a little extra HP. By bypassing the pulley in the winter months when you don't need it you effectively extend your compressors life span. -Troubleshooting: Bypassing the AC Compressor can be a useful tool in troubleshoot pulley noise/belt noise/ or compressor seize. By removing the belt you can rotate each pulley and find the culprit or see if the noise went away. If it is the AC Compressor, Bypassing the AC on a daily driver or if you have little money can be the best way to temporarily fix your problem. What you will need 10mm Socket or wrench 1/2'' socket Ratchet x1 2000-2004 V6- 6 Ribbed Idler Pulley ($23.00 @ autozone/orielly) x1 washer set ($4.59 @ autozone/orielly) x1 6 Ribbed 70.5'' serpentine belt. (28.99 @ autozone/orielly) Total $56.00. It takes roughly 7 Minutes to do it on your own. How To With your car off put your parking brake on take your standard sized ratchet and insert the socket end into the square on the tensioner pulley and pull it to the right. While holding the tensioner pulley slip the belt off. **USE EXTREME CAUTION NOT TO PINCH OR SLAM THE PULLEY ONTO A FINGER** Take your 10mm socket or wrench remove the mounting bolt out of the center of the tensioner pulley arm. Remove the Tensioer pully Arm. Flip your Tensioner Pulley Arm over and take your 1/2'' socket and remove the bolt holding the Idler Pulley to the arm. Replace the smooth pulley with the ribbed pulley you bought (When you do so ensure that you put the pulley on the right way otherwise it will fail to spin freely) Hand tighten the bolt and then apply about 1 turns worth of torque. Don't over tighten it. Take the bolt that held the arm to the block and thread it through the arm and half way through the block. With your free hand grab the 70.5" belt and slide it behind and onto the tensioner pulley (Not putting the belt on now will result in you having to loosening the arm back up to slide the belt onto it) hand tighten the pully down and apply about 1.5 turns worth of torque. (test the tensioner pulley and ensure that it spins freely and doesnt rub the engine block. If it does take your waster kit, remove your arm and apply a thin washer to the back side of your tensioner arm bolt and reset it back into the block) The routing pattern for you will be as such following the belt off the topof the tensioner pulley and to the right. rib side should be on ribbed pulleys and smoot side should be on smooth pulleys Off the top of the tensioner pulley -> over the top of the Alternator -> around the right side of the power steering pump --> under the bottom of the crank and around it to the right side of the water pump --> around the right side of the water pump and over top of it back to the bottom of the tensioner pulley. Start your stang and see if it the belt works. If not correct. I WILL POST PICS in the follow days please bare with me |
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#2 |
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I like boobs!!!
2000 GT convertible
dunno
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Brooklet, GA
Posts: 2,827
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Or you can just turn your AC off and then the clutch disengages and turns the AC pulley into an idler pulley. That seems easier to me. That only requires you to turn one knob. Then, if you want your AC on a hot day, you turn the knob the other way.
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#3 |
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MM's king of Neon's
404 - car not found
17.81@87
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Diesel Engine Capital of the World, Columbus, IN
Posts: 7,374
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That and the fact an A/C delete bracket/pulley is about the same price as the V6 idler pulley alone. If I were to do it, I'd go that route.
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