fastest way to change oil pan?
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Old February 6th, 2012, 11:15 AM   #1
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fastest way to change oil pan?


im guesing drop the k member? ive read many times it doesnt take long. i have an engiine hoist. would dropping the k give me full acess to the oil pan? i just wanna swap pans quick and see if thats where my noise is coming from in my engine
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Old February 6th, 2012, 11:19 AM   #2
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Yep, drop the K. Full access.
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Old February 6th, 2012, 12:28 PM   #3
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yep...drop the k

do yourself a favor and use a bar across the shock towers to hold up the motor...that way the legs of the cherry picker arent in your way.

Also, on the gasket, they are reusable but some locktite gasket eliminator (#515 I think, the clear puprple stuff) real thin never hurts and itls never seep much less leak
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Old February 6th, 2012, 01:13 PM   #4
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If you think there's a noise coming from the bottom of the engine I think you can just put your head down there, is dropping the k and swapping a pan really necessary
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Old February 6th, 2012, 04:56 PM   #5
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im almost 100 percent sure the fins are hitting in the pan. hitting the rod caps and countershaft weight or whatever on the crank
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Old February 6th, 2012, 04:57 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by 04MidnightGT View Post
If you think there's a noise coming from the bottom of the engine I think you can just put your head down there, is dropping the k and swapping a pan really necessary
i could feel it hittin the pan when i put my hand on it as it was running
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Old February 6th, 2012, 08:31 PM   #7
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I'll be dropping the k this week. Are there any write ups besides zincs! Nothing against his, I just want more info and opinions on things
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Old February 6th, 2012, 08:59 PM   #8
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I might be doing this myself, as my oil pan gasket is leaking (or rear main) I have oil towards the back of the oil pan. How hard is it to drop the K-Member?
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Old February 6th, 2012, 09:21 PM   #9
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add 1 gal of gas in oil fill cap. wait 30 secs then follow with match. presto... pan is off
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Old February 6th, 2012, 09:38 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by limited View Post
add 1 gal of gas in oil fill cap. wait 30 secs then follow with match. presto... pan is off
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Old February 6th, 2012, 10:22 PM   #11
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Lol.
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Old February 6th, 2012, 10:35 PM   #12
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I lol'd

dropping the k member is easy as hell..you wont have any problems. If you dowel pin the back two tabs in to the subframe then it'l go back in right where it came from smooth as butter
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Old February 6th, 2012, 10:39 PM   #13
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Good tip!
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Old February 6th, 2012, 11:08 PM   #14
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hold the engine up with a hoist or the tool. unbolt the steering shaft and rack bolts. remove tie rod ends from spindle. pry the rack off (i just let mine hang). remove brakes and remove bottom strut bolts. remove ball joint nut and remove spindle. remove motor mount nuts. then 8 bolts and it should be down unless i forgot something. thats the basics anyway
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Old February 6th, 2012, 11:16 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by mrbigjeep View Post
hold the engine up with a hoist or the tool. unbolt the steering shaft and rack bolts. remove tie rod ends from spindle. pry the rack off (i just let mine hang). remove brakes and remove bottom strut bolts. remove ball joint nut and remove spindle. remove motor mount nuts. then 8 bolts and it should be down unless i forgot something. thats the basics anyway
when you take the rack off zip tie it to the sway bar...out of the way and then it wont be hanging by the lines either. Put a floor jack under the control arms BEFORE you pull the bolts out of the lower strut otherwise you'll be digging a spring out of your head. No reason to bother taking the spindles off either IMHO. Also tie up the calipers rather than fully remove them so you wont have to bleed them later.If you plan on doing the dowel pin method then make sure you drill and dowel before you loosen any of the 8 K member bolts otherwise you have defeated the purpose of the pins lol

just my .02.....
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Old February 6th, 2012, 11:20 PM   #16
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i just let the rack and calipers hang lol

your right though, no need to remove the spindles...i was thinking of when i dropped mine to install the tubular k/a-arms so i had to remove them
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Old February 6th, 2012, 11:22 PM   #17
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I was wondering why you opted to take them off haha
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Old February 7th, 2012, 11:19 AM   #18
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is there pics somewhere of how and where to drill holes for these dowels?
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Old February 7th, 2012, 11:21 AM   #19
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is the k member bolted to the frame inside the wheel well? sorry for the stupid questions. havent been around the car for a while and never really studied how the k member is held in
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Old February 7th, 2012, 12:56 PM   #20
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Two bolts in the top spring perch, two at the rear of the K on each side for a total of 8. I dont remove the rack unless im swapping Ks. Remove wheels and calipers then zip the top strut nut off and lower the a arm with a jack. Slide the K forward and you'll have plenty of room. The leak towards the back is either the rear main or the rear main retainer plate. Replace to rear main after removal/cleaning/resealing the retainer plate(it doesnt use a gasket).

I failed to mention the two nuts that secure the motor mounts to the K.
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