T56 Durability?
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Old February 7th, 2012, 02:57 AM   #1
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T56 Durability? Picked up used T56 with pics!


EDIT: Picked up T56. Pics on page 3

I have a chance to get a low mile stock T56. I was wondering how durable they are in stock form? I ran a used stock TR3650 I payed 350 for 8 years ago. The last 4 at 500+ hp without any issues what so ever. Then last spring I went WOT and at the top of 3rd the gear it let go no warning at all before the failure. I always thought it would go during a launch at the track or banging gears. Gears 1,2,4,5, and reverse still worked just shattered 3rd gear.

I plan on getting into the mid tens in the mid to upper 130's on 315 17" DR's. Then setting my car up for auto crossing or road course fun for a few years. Plus I live in the Appalachian mountains and there's lots of twisties. I'm bored with trying to make great 60's and speed shifting. Plus this allows for a more streetable car. I never planned on making an all out strip car.
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Old February 7th, 2012, 04:20 AM   #2
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i have the stock t56 in my cobra with a 26 spline upgrade. it is a little notchy but you get used to it. i launch off a 2 step full boost and it holds. im sure you will like it once you get used to it.
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Old February 7th, 2012, 08:26 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
i have the stock t56 in my cobra with a 26 spline upgrade. it is a little notchy but you get used to it. i launch off a 2 step full boost and it holds. im sure you will like it once you get used to it.
It certainly is notchy.

I've got the 26 spline upgrade too. From what I've heard with the upgraded input you're good for well over 700 ft-lb. Which is clearly evident by the fact stal can launch a twin screw cobra on slicks without scattering parts everywhere.

What clutch are you running btw stal?
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Old February 7th, 2012, 08:29 AM   #4
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Notchy but nice
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Old February 7th, 2012, 08:30 AM   #5
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Im running the spec3+. Its a great high hp single disk
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Old February 7th, 2012, 01:50 PM   #6
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Buying T56 need parts list.


I'm going to buy a used T56 with a 26 spline input shaft

Comes with:
Spec 3 clutch, billet steel flywheel both with 6 dyno passes and 8 track passes with about 200 street miles.

Hurst shifter. he says he hates it lol.
Wiring harness if I need it.

I still need:
Stock oem bellhousing (on a budget)
Driveshaft? (which one?)
Crossmember ( Stock is fine for now)

Is there anything else I'm missing? Is there other little tricks that can make the install easier?

Can the bell housing be installed first then the transmission?

Thanx
Jive
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Old February 7th, 2012, 01:56 PM   #7
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Yes the bell housing can be installed first, what are you going to do about the reverse lockout switch? Springs or wire it?
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Old February 7th, 2012, 02:01 PM   #8
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You've swapped transmissions on your car before haven't you? Are you looking for T-56 specific tips or general removal/install tips for our car?

I have no experience with the T-56, but I just pulled my 3650 out. I can post what I had difficulty with, but didn't want to insult your intelligence if you've done it before.
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Old February 7th, 2012, 02:22 PM   #9
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You might be on your own with the driveshaft. If you had an IRS you could use the Cobra one.

Yes, the bell housing is removeable and can be installed seperately.

You don't "need" the wiring harness. Since you don't have the Cobra ECM you might have to do the spring mod for the reverse lockout solenoid. See Jazzer's thread.

Also you might want to check that it comes with a pivot stud and clutch fork. Mine had everything else, except those.

As for the Hurst shifter you can go with that if you want. Mine came with a Tri-ax and it is notchy as can be. I know I loved the Hurst shifter in my Cutlass.
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Old February 7th, 2012, 02:34 PM   #10
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The t56 cross member is diff than the 3650. Also search the want adds 03-04 cobra drive shafts will pop up for cheap. Also d&d sells oem bells for a decent price. As for the reverse lock out I believe you can wire a 12v source and use a pressure switch to activate it.
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Old February 7th, 2012, 03:23 PM   #11
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man like everything else it's like like more money than I anticapated. I'm thinking of running Mobil 1 synthetic ATF in it.

Originally Posted by number1gt View Post
Yes the bell housing can be installed first, what are you going to do about the reverse lockout switch? Springs or wire it?
Had no idea about the reverse lock out.

Originally Posted by andrewskaggs View Post
You've swapped transmissions on your car before haven't you? Are you looking for T-56 specific tips or general removal/install tips for our car?

I have no experience with the T-56, but I just pulled my 3650 out. I can post what I had difficulty with, but didn't want to insult your intelligence if you've done it before.
I have changed mine several times using t45's and tr3650's. Just need T56 specific info. Top bell housing bolts is what kicks my ass lol.

Originally Posted by stal94gt View Post
The t56 cross member is diff than the 3650. Also search the want adds 03-04 cobra drive shafts will pop up for cheap. Also d&d sells oem bells for a decent price. As for the reverse lock out I believe you can wire a 12v source and use a pressure switch to activate it.
If doing the spring mod requires me going into the transmission and unlocks the reverse lock out all the time. I would probably like to use a 12v resource.
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Old February 7th, 2012, 03:50 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by jivepepper View Post
I have changed mine several times using t45's and tr3650's. Just need T56 specific info. Top bell housing bolts is what kicks my ass lol.
OK. I thought you had. Top bellhousing bolts and top starter bolt is a pain. Good luck with your swap. I had thought about doing that with mine until I decided to go with an auto.
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Old February 7th, 2012, 03:54 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by jivepepper View Post
If doing the spring mod requires me going into the transmission and unlocks the reverse lock out all the time. I would probably like to use a 12v resource.
It's not really going into the transmission. It's a piece of cake really.

There's a small module that bolts to the side of the transmission near the shifter. You take out one bold and it's off. Then you take out 2 snap rings I believe, remove a stiff spring, install a lighter one and voila.

I followed Jazzer's swap and it was easy as can be.

It gives you some resistance to banging into reverse, but not so much it's a chore to get it into gear. You can fine tune it to your liking based on what springs you use.

Also I'm running Synchromesh. That seems to be highly recommended.
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Old February 7th, 2012, 07:30 PM   #14
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A stock NON viper spec T56 is rated at 450lb/ft... There are many Fbody guys with well over 600hp on a stock T56. As long as its not abused they hold together fine.
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Old February 7th, 2012, 11:08 PM   #15
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The one I'm looking at has the 26 spline upgrade, a spec 3 clutch and ford racing billet steel flywheel.
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Old February 7th, 2012, 11:13 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by jivepepper View Post
The one I'm looking at has the 26 spline upgrade, a spec 3 clutch and ford racing billet steel flywheel.
Where is it? Hope it's not the one I'm looking at lol


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Old February 7th, 2012, 11:14 PM   #17
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Pittsburgh
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Old February 7th, 2012, 11:22 PM   #18
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Oh ok


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Old February 7th, 2012, 11:23 PM   #19
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I was lookin at a sweet viper spec in Greensboro. It's on Craigslist. Freshly rebuilt. Idk if I want that though but you may be interested. That was really the only one I found on cl. It'd be a long ass drive for me :/


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Old February 7th, 2012, 11:23 PM   #20
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The guy that owned it is from Canada I think and used it as part of a payment for work he had done at a speed shop toward a Magnum spec.. This one hasn't been advertised.
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