diff between pi and non pi motor
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Old June 12th, 2007, 12:38 AM   #1
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diff between pi and non pi motor


Hi does anyone know the differnce between the non pi motor and the pi motor ? is the block the same.. someone is trying to seel me a motor out of a lincoln town car and it looks like the 4.6 non pi. i want to buy and rebuild.. will it bolt right up???....thanks
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Old June 12th, 2007, 12:40 AM   #2
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well pi is better of course but yeah you take your stuff off your motor and put it on there..
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Old June 12th, 2007, 12:43 AM   #3
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So if i take my heads and ignition ,intake manifold and put it on that block it will still be the same???
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Old June 12th, 2007, 12:48 AM   #4
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yeah man..how much they giving you that other engine for??
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Old June 12th, 2007, 12:50 AM   #5
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150$$ and 55k miles i want to forge the bottom end and put it in my car for more boost.. cheap tho huh
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Old June 12th, 2007, 01:09 AM   #6
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yeah man do it..put your heads on it and everything else and forge that thing..and go ahead and see if you can port and polish those heads...and paint everything nice you know so it looks goooooood...
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Old June 12th, 2007, 09:23 AM   #7
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will do thanks ... i want to build a zo6 eater so will see....
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Old June 12th, 2007, 10:47 AM   #8
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if it is npi keep in mind ur compression is gonna be 10:4:1 which is not good for running Forced INduction. You can remedy this by changing the pistons i believe. Anyone wanna back my up on this or correct me, theres a 5% chance im wrong about the pistons.
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Old June 12th, 2007, 11:04 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by 96GTRagTop
if it is npi keep in mind ur compression is gonna be 10:4:1 which is not good for running Forced INduction. You can remedy this by changing the pistons i believe. Anyone wanna back my up on this or correct me, theres a 5% chance im wrong about the pistons.
he can still have forced induction it's just that he wont be able to go past 10-12 psi if not lower unless he wants to risk detonation from the high compression pistons...if he wants to just stay at a conservative boost those pistons will do with low boost but anything higher then 12psi (correct if im wrong please) then it would be recommended to lower to either 8.0-9.0 compression ratio for high boost levels.

whatever floats your Boost, and since your gonna be forging you shouldnt worry about internal failure unless its tuned wrong so GL bro.
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Old June 12th, 2007, 12:22 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by LeadFoot_GT
Originally Posted by 96GTRagTop
if it is npi keep in mind ur compression is gonna be 10:4:1 which is not good for running Forced INduction. You can remedy this by changing the pistons i believe. Anyone wanna back my up on this or correct me, theres a 5% chance im wrong about the pistons.
he can still have forced induction it's just that he wont be able to go past 10-12 psi if not lower unless he wants to risk detonation from the high compression pistons...if he wants to just stay at a conservative boost those pistons will do with low boost but anything higher then 12psi (correct if im wrong please) then it would be recommended to lower to either 8.0-9.0 compression ratio for high boost levels.

whatever floats your Boost, and since your gonna be forging you shouldnt worry about internal failure unless its tuned wrong so GL bro.
I apoligize for not being more clear in my post. I just waddled out of bed to drive my gf to work and came home. It takes me like, atleast 2 hours in the morning before i can begin to function properly. Don't get me wrong, if i roll outa bed at 12 im good to go, but anything sooner then that it's like my body is just in sleep mode.
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Old June 12th, 2007, 12:31 PM   #11
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Well since he has a PI motor right now and wants to put the PI crap on the NPI block he will have a 10.4:1 compression ratio, because of the decrease in combustion chamber in the PI heads along with the smaller dished pistons. To rememdy this he just needs to put in different larger dished pistons, or he could use SVO heads which have the same combustion chamber size, and then use a nice intake manifold using the stickey on the 96-98 page. Those SVO heads ported and polished are the best you can buy for these car IMO. You have a lot of options, but Jump on that motor it has a great price!
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Old June 12th, 2007, 01:16 PM   #12
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are SVO heads npi matt?
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Old June 12th, 2007, 01:29 PM   #13
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SVO heads have the same combustion chamber size as NPI and they have NPI ports on them. But SVO heads are the best you can get and when they are ported and polished they really shine! Also you can get them port matched for a PI intake, but thats a lot of money when the silicon works just fine! I just whish I had the bills to get a set!
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Old June 12th, 2007, 02:46 PM   #14
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I dont really think any of this is even relivant.

If you are going to a Npi block and you wanna go internals...then the pistons wont matter because you would change them anyways.

The blocks are the same, except the winsor and romeo. they are different. you have a winsor block with winsor heads and cams. you are going to a romeo block. This would be a wonderful time to go aftermarket heads and cams. If you want a z06 killer...then you better build it right.

there is just alot to consider when going from winsor to romeo. thats why i recommend people staying away from 99-01 1/2 motors when going PI swap. You may have to do some drilling and such. But you can get it to work for what you want it to.
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Old June 12th, 2007, 05:52 PM   #15
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+1..hes going forged anyways..and yeah some stage 2 heads and cams would be good wouldnt it...
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Old June 12th, 2007, 07:07 PM   #16
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I don't see where you are going to get a very good deal.

Let's draw this out..........

You're not going to use the heads and upper end of the donor engine.
You're not going to use the pistons.
You're not going to use the rods if you want a forged bottom end.
You're not going to use the crank because it is also cast.
You ARE going to use the block- which you will want to take to the machine shop to have checked and cleaned up. Let's say the shop charges you the typical minimum fee of about $200.
Now, what you have is $350 used block. Keep in mind that a new block will only run you about $360 with the standard bore.

I would pay the extra $10 and not deal with the hassle of tear down that, machine shop this, so on and so forth.
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Old June 12th, 2007, 10:53 PM   #17
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Acmillr has a great point I never thought about it that way!

And I forgot about the windsor and romeo crap! Srry!
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Old June 13th, 2007, 12:35 AM   #18
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So what if i were just to swap motors would a romero bolt right up to a windsor???? are the blocks the same??
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Old June 13th, 2007, 12:41 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by acmillr
I don't see where you are going to get a very good deal.

Let's draw this out..........

You're not going to use the heads and upper end of the donor engine.
You're not going to use the pistons.
You're not going to use the rods if you want a forged bottom end.
You're not going to use the crank because it is also cast.
You ARE going to use the block- which you will want to take to the machine shop to have checked and cleaned up. Let's say the shop charges you the typical minimum fee of about $200.
Now, what you have is $350 used block. Keep in mind that a new block will only run you about $360 with the standard bore.

I would pay the extra $10 and not deal with the hassle of tear down that, machine shop this, so on and so forth.





What i was planning on doing is take that other motor and put good rods and pistons for about 15 PSI and a cam job... keep the crank and stuff or am i full of crap talk??
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Old June 13th, 2007, 12:43 AM   #20
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If you and doing a stroker kit like you said, you have to get a new crank as well! And if you are in there you might as well put in a forged crank as well!
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