Cam help

energiesource · June 17th, 2007, 09:46 PM

So what is involved in the process with cams, what do you need besides them and do you need to take the engine out? Also, whats the best type?
Thanks.

acmillr · June 17th, 2007, 09:47 PM

What are you looking fr out of your cams? i.e. more rpm's, aggressive low end, good midrange, killer top end, etc...........

GTsetGO · June 17th, 2007, 09:49 PM

on our engines you do not need to take the engine out, but you might have to take the heads off. When we did mine, I had to change the springs as well. So to make matters easier on us, we took the heads off so that one of the valves didn't fall down in the cylinder.

energiesource · June 17th, 2007, 09:50 PM

more of a low end thing. my car has gone downhill since i bought it in the acceleration department and engine swaps are too costly at the moment, i gotta fix my transmission as well so im looking for something somewhat cheap.

MustangMatt96GT · June 17th, 2007, 09:53 PM

I would say do 4.10s or 3.73s for the low end acceleration, and then get a good mild cam for the mid and top!

acmillr · June 17th, 2007, 09:54 PM

Cheapest route, in my opinion, would be something like Comp's 262 cams. You could probably get away with using the stock valve springs, and you could even get around a custom tune if you don't have the $ for it right away. If you went any more duration/lift than that, you will NEED better springs and a decent tune. Also, just changing cams is a walk in the park on these mod motors.

energiesource · June 17th, 2007, 09:59 PM

this may seem like a stupid question but what do you need to do all the adjustments and measuring when installing them?

energiesource · June 17th, 2007, 10:01 PM

Also what is all the 270, 262, 268 for?

acmillr · June 17th, 2007, 10:06 PM

You really don't need anything except basic tools and an inch lb. TQ wrench. You can change the cams without pulling the front cover, but I never felt comfortable with that. If you pull the cover, you can line the timing marks up and be for sure you are are not off at all.
The nmbers stand for the advertised duration ( how long the valves stay open). Lift numbers are referring to how far the valve comes open. Keep in mind that a higher duration number will result in loss of low end power and , subsequently, driveability.

energiesource · June 18th, 2007, 01:35 AM

What kind of a gain are you looking at getting with them?

droppedbass87 · June 18th, 2007, 01:39 AM

yeah i want to know also if i should get some cams before i either supercharge or turbo mine????should i go ahead and do it guys??

SWEET2KSTANG · June 18th, 2007, 01:45 AM

if you plan on adding something major like boost or spray, then cams need to be done then or last. cams are a big key when adding stuff like that on; lift, duration, centerline, overlap, etc. play a critical part to get efficient power. custom grind cams with custom tune is the best way to go when doing that. as for power, i personally dont know. just be sure to do homework before you go out and get any cam. you can over cam a motor and if you do you will kick yourself in the ass.

energiesource · June 18th, 2007, 01:46 AM

well isnt 262 basically a stock cam? so why would i get those?

SWEET2KSTANG · June 18th, 2007, 01:51 AM

a 262 is a little bigger than stock. stck cams are made to work for an array of people, conditions, and uses. aftermarket cams are made for more specific purposes. the lift, duration, lsa, and a lot of other things go into making an aftermarket cam. that is why you can get good power gains even out of a small cam.

droppedbass87 · June 18th, 2007, 01:53 AM

what should i get mike??

energiesource · June 18th, 2007, 01:53 AM

hmm
good to know
is comp good?

SWEET2KSTANG · June 18th, 2007, 01:56 AM

i run comp in all of my cars, i love them. form what i been seeing and hearing form a lot of reputable shops is that vt is making a little more power than comp. depending what else i do to mine, will make me decide with which company i go with.

jivepepper · June 18th, 2007, 03:51 AM

I have houston performance s292 cams. they have an advertised duration of 292 more like 240 @ .50 with a 531/531 lift and a 114 lsa. I went from 431/419 to 515/453 with these cams and a retune. They are a street cam that also does well na.

I just removed the valve cover and used the AFM cam retention tool. I'm also still running the stock valve springs.

matrixpuba · June 18th, 2007, 04:05 AM

a 262 or stage 1 cam does not need a spring change. 27+ or stage 2 needs springs.

02steedagt · June 18th, 2007, 10:36 AM

I plan on going with the comp cams, either 262 or 270 (probably 262). I've done a lot of research on these cams, and they seem to give great results and are good quality. check out their website and look through their tech and information pages, they describe everything you need to know about each cam.

http://www.compcams.com/

June 17th, 2007, 09:46 PM	#1
energiesource Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Up der in canada eh Posts: 2,373	Cam help So what is involved in the process with cams, what do you need besides them and do you need to take the engine out? Also, whats the best type? Thanks. __________________ 2000 Mustang GT, Steeda Triax shifter, Underdrive pulleys, SLP LM2, MAC L/T and O/R H-pipe. Transmission fix, new clutch Coming soon: Brakes.

June 17th, 2007, 09:50 PM	#4
energiesource Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Up der in canada eh Posts: 2,373	more of a low end thing. my car has gone downhill since i bought it in the acceleration department and engine swaps are too costly at the moment, i gotta fix my transmission as well so im looking for something somewhat cheap. __________________ 2000 Mustang GT, Steeda Triax shifter, Underdrive pulleys, SLP LM2, MAC L/T and O/R H-pipe. Transmission fix, new clutch Coming soon: Brakes.

June 17th, 2007, 09:53 PM	#5
MustangMatt96GT I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1996 Mustang GT 13.023@103.46 @ 5800 FT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Lakewood, CO Posts: 7,145	I would say do 4.10s or 3.73s for the low end acceleration, and then get a good mild cam for the mid and top! __________________ We expect shit to break, look foward to realizing exactly when it is happening, and than obsess about dropping plenty of cash to rebuild stronger, so we can try to run it hard as hell and break again. We are sick individuals.

June 17th, 2007, 09:59 PM	#7
energiesource Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Up der in canada eh Posts: 2,373	this may seem like a stupid question but what do you need to do all the adjustments and measuring when installing them? __________________ 2000 Mustang GT, Steeda Triax shifter, Underdrive pulleys, SLP LM2, MAC L/T and O/R H-pipe. Transmission fix, new clutch Coming soon: Brakes.

June 17th, 2007, 10:01 PM	#8
energiesource Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Up der in canada eh Posts: 2,373	Also what is all the 270, 262, 268 for? __________________ 2000 Mustang GT, Steeda Triax shifter, Underdrive pulleys, SLP LM2, MAC L/T and O/R H-pipe. Transmission fix, new clutch Coming soon: Brakes.

June 17th, 2007, 09:47 PM	#2
acmillr MM Fanatic 2003 GT Street Fast 16.9@76MPH Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 3,876	What are you looking fr out of your cams? i.e. more rpm's, aggressive low end, good midrange, killer top end, etc...........

June 17th, 2007, 09:54 PM	#6
acmillr MM Fanatic 2003 GT Street Fast 16.9@76MPH Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 3,876	Cheapest route, in my opinion, would be something like Comp's 262 cams. You could probably get away with using the stock valve springs, and you could even get around a custom tune if you don't have the $ for it right away. If you went any more duration/lift than that, you will NEED better springs and a decent tune. Also, just changing cams is a walk in the park on these mod motors.

June 17th, 2007, 10:06 PM	#9
acmillr MM Fanatic 2003 GT Street Fast 16.9@76MPH Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Tampa, FL Posts: 3,876	You really don't need anything except basic tools and an inch lb. TQ wrench. You can change the cams without pulling the front cover, but I never felt comfortable with that. If you pull the cover, you can line the timing marks up and be for sure you are are not off at all. The nmbers stand for the advertised duration ( how long the valves stay open). Lift numbers are referring to how far the valve comes open. Keep in mind that a higher duration number will result in loss of low end power and , subsequently, driveability.

June 18th, 2007, 01:35 AM	#10
energiesource Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Up der in canada eh Posts: 2,373	What kind of a gain are you looking at getting with them? __________________ 2000 Mustang GT, Steeda Triax shifter, Underdrive pulleys, SLP LM2, MAC L/T and O/R H-pipe. Transmission fix, new clutch Coming soon: Brakes.

June 18th, 2007, 01:39 AM	#11
droppedbass87 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: diberville,mississippi Posts: 1,878	yeah i want to know also if i should get some cams before i either supercharge or turbo mine????should i go ahead and do it guys?? __________________ fraziers transmission service..

June 18th, 2007, 01:45 AM	#12
SWEET2KSTANG MM Fanatic 2000 mustang gt 12.01@114.69 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 4,024	if you plan on adding something major like boost or spray, then cams need to be done then or last. cams are a big key when adding stuff like that on; lift, duration, centerline, overlap, etc. play a critical part to get efficient power. custom grind cams with custom tune is the best way to go when doing that. as for power, i personally dont know. just be sure to do homework before you go out and get any cam. you can over cam a motor and if you do you will kick yourself in the ass. __________________ stock long block, bolt ons, slicks, and a little squeeze 1/4 E.T. 12.06@114.69 Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you: 1. Jesus Christ 2. The American G. I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.

June 18th, 2007, 01:46 AM	#13
energiesource Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Up der in canada eh Posts: 2,373	well isnt 262 basically a stock cam? so why would i get those? __________________ 2000 Mustang GT, Steeda Triax shifter, Underdrive pulleys, SLP LM2, MAC L/T and O/R H-pipe. Transmission fix, new clutch Coming soon: Brakes.

June 18th, 2007, 01:51 AM	#14
SWEET2KSTANG MM Fanatic 2000 mustang gt 12.01@114.69 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 4,024	a 262 is a little bigger than stock. stck cams are made to work for an array of people, conditions, and uses. aftermarket cams are made for more specific purposes. the lift, duration, lsa, and a lot of other things go into making an aftermarket cam. that is why you can get good power gains even out of a small cam. __________________ stock long block, bolt ons, slicks, and a little squeeze 1/4 E.T. 12.06@114.69 Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you: 1. Jesus Christ 2. The American G. I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.

June 18th, 2007, 01:53 AM	#15
droppedbass87 Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: diberville,mississippi Posts: 1,878	what should i get mike?? __________________ fraziers transmission service..

June 18th, 2007, 01:53 AM	#16
energiesource Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Up der in canada eh Posts: 2,373	hmm good to know is comp good? __________________ 2000 Mustang GT, Steeda Triax shifter, Underdrive pulleys, SLP LM2, MAC L/T and O/R H-pipe. Transmission fix, new clutch Coming soon: Brakes.

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June 18th, 2007, 01:56 AM	#17
SWEET2KSTANG MM Fanatic 2000 mustang gt 12.01@114.69 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: N.W. AR Posts: 4,024	i run comp in all of my cars, i love them. form what i been seeing and hearing form a lot of reputable shops is that vt is making a little more power than comp. depending what else i do to mine, will make me decide with which company i go with. __________________ stock long block, bolt ons, slicks, and a little squeeze 1/4 E.T. 12.06@114.69 Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you: 1. Jesus Christ 2. The American G. I. One died for your soul, the other for your freedom.

June 18th, 2007, 03:51 AM	#18
jivepepper Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Under a sombrero Posts: 1,343	I have houston performance s292 cams. they have an advertised duration of 292 more like 240 @ .50 with a 531/531 lift and a 114 lsa. I went from 431/419 to 515/453 with these cams and a retune. They are a street cam that also does well na. I just removed the valve cover and used the AFM cam retention tool. I'm also still running the stock valve springs. __________________ 11.2@ 129 with only 516/453 on street tires New times coming soon with 598/531..........

June 18th, 2007, 04:05 AM	#19
matrixpuba Hardcore Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: tennessee Posts: 2,379	a 262 or stage 1 cam does not need a spring change. 27+ or stage 2 needs springs. __________________ http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../matrixsig.jpg

June 18th, 2007, 10:36 AM	#20
02steedagt Enthusiast Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Solomons, MD Posts: 634	I plan on going with the comp cams, either 262 or 270 (probably 262). I've done a lot of research on these cams, and they seem to give great results and are good quality. check out their website and look through their tech and information pages, they describe everything you need to know about each cam. http://www.compcams.com/ __________________ "America is all about speed. Hot, nasty, bad ass speed." Eleanor Roosevelt, 1936 http://img241.imageshack.us/img241/8...angcopysn8.jpg