[bossman2kgt]

Boy is this getting old but I need help again. Thanks to everyone in advance. Well it is now time to replace my clutch but I am not really sure what I need to purchase and what not to. First off I am getting a spec stage 2. What comes with the kit are the clutch disc, pressure plate, throw-out bearing, pilot bearing and alignment tools. Do I need a new clutch cable or bolts? Any help would be great. Thanks.

[HMUSN]

1. Disconnect battery
2. Remove shifter lever (or complete shifter)
3. Jack up vehicle and place on four jack stands (as high as possible)
4. Disconnect all four 02 sensors
5. Spray h-pipe bolts with WD40 or whatever, let set for 20 min,
6. Remove h-pipe
7. Remove starter (3 bolts for 96 and up stangs) ½” socket
8. Drain tranny fluid and re-install drain plug when the tranny has been completely drained
9. Remove the drive shaft (use a 12mm 12 point socket to remove the four DS bolts and apply orientation marks so that the DS is re-installed exatly from the same area it was removed.
10. Remove all the electrical wriring from the tranny, (vehicle speed sensor, clutch cable ect...ect..)
11. Remove the two tranny cross member side bolts and let the transmission sit at an angle, this will make it very easy to access the two top tranny bolts. Remove the two top tranny bolts. (long extension needed)
12. Re-install the tranny cross member to its normal location and slide the two cross member bolts on..(do not thread the stationary nuts back on.
13. Remove the rest of the tranny BH bolts.
14. Remove the two cross member side bolts and make sure your in a good position to wrestle the tranny off..let it rest on your chest and roll over.
15. Remove the PP, and FW…Clean the threads on the PP and FW bolts with a wire brush.
16. Remove pilot bearing (slide hammer and pulley kit needed)
17 . Re-install new pilot bearing and add bearing grease to the new pilot bearing
18. Install the freshly turned FW, add red loctite to the FW bolts and snug in a criss-cross pattern, then do a finishing torque of 65 ft-lb.
19. Clean the flywheel surface with Acetone
20. Clean the PP rotor surface with Acetone and place the clutch disk in the proper orientation to the PP rotor..
21. Install the clutch alignment tool then place the PP and clutch diask to the FW, and add red loctite to the PP bolts and install the bolts until the PP and clutch disk has seated to the FW.
22. Loosen the PP bolts ½ turn then torque the PP bolts down first to 15ftlb, then do a finishing torque of 28 ft-lb.
23. Look to make sure the PP, and Clutch disk are concentric…If everything looks good re-install the tranny with a new clutch release fork ($30 from ford) and a new TB and make sure your generous in greasing the prongs on the clutch release fork and the TB bore.
24. Re-install the tranny
25 . Re-install the Drive shaft (use red loctite on DS bolts and torque to 90 ft-lb).
26. Remove the fill plug on the tranny..you cant fill it from the shifter area and fill until tranny fluid seeps from the tranny filler hole.

The rest is pretty much self explanatory, clutch break in is about 300 miles…Good Luck….

[C MY 4D]

The only other things you'll need is to resurface the flywheel or replace it and you'll need some trans fluid to replace what spills out.

[bossman2kgt]

Thanks for the info. I haven't decided whether I want to do it or have it done by my mech, but if I did, what would be a fair price to have it put in?

[C MY 4D]

around $250-$300

[03_StangGuy]

Originally Posted by C MY 4D The only other things you'll need is to resurface the flywheel or replace it and you'll need some trans fluid to replace what spills out.

I was under the belief that the flywheel could be reused as long as it was burnt or had too much wear.

[C MY 4D]

not turning it will cause clutch chatter

[bossman2kgt]

Can I reuse my clutch cable or do I need to purchase a new one?

[C MY 4D]

you can reuse it