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post #1 of 17 Old January 26th, 2013, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
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brake job

hey guys, i need to do a brake job on my 03 mustang gt and am very new to anything brakes. I am mechanically inclined but when it comes to anything brakes, i have no experience with them. Two of my rotors are warped and two sets of brake pads a pretty worn from some heavy use. Car has only 40k miles but i want to get this all straightened out. Does anyone have any guides they know for our cars on how to do this? i plan on doing 4 new rotors and 4 sets of pads. I dont need to do the calipers right? they seem fine. I already found four rotors but im looking for some new pads and am not sure what to go with. I dont want anything that will break the bank. I dont track the car and dont do any extreme driving(the last owner may have), so i dont need crazy brake pads. I just want to avoid brake dust if i can. Thanks!
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post #2 of 17 Old January 26th, 2013, 02:28 PM
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OEM replacement rotors, good semi-mettalic pads (I like my Hawk HPS), good quality brake fluid and stainless lines (if you want to upgrade).

youll need to compress the front calipers with c clamps and the rear rotors need to be turned in using a tool you can rent from a local parts store.

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post #3 of 17 Old January 26th, 2013, 02:41 PM
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It's a pretty easy job, calipers will just unbolt, tie them up if you want so they're not hanging, pads will slide out of calipers, you are going to uncap the fluid resevoir, slowly clamp the front calipers and they will open, slide in the new pads, rotors will come right off after its all taken apart. rear calipers you will need the cube or the tool.

The cube doesnt have an exact key to fit the openings on the rear pistons so you'll need to grind 2 prongs off or at least thats what I had to do.

When are you looking to get this done? If you are un-sure I have no problem taking the 40min trip and giving you a hand
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post #4 of 17 Old January 26th, 2013, 02:45 PM
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If you dont drive like a jack ass all the time and brake them in properly, brakemotive sells all 4 cross drilled/slotted rotors and pads for like 150 shipped. I've had them for a decent amount of time, I didnt break them in how they are supposed to which was my own fault...so when Im screwing around and trying to stop fast from higher speeds they like to vibrate, but they are an awesome setup for the price. You can always buy different pads
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post #5 of 17 Old January 26th, 2013, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Hey bro I would really appreciate that! Once I get my tax returns back I plan on buying all the parts , I just want to get it all finished before I need my inspection! Ill let you know though for sure!
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post #6 of 17 Old January 26th, 2013, 02:49 PM
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Advanceautoparts.com has alot of how to videos (or at least they did last time I looked) or i'm sure theres something on youtube that will help, but like stated above, it's pretty straight forward.
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post #7 of 17 Old January 26th, 2013, 03:12 PM
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Ford calipers (and Toyota) actually come apart in two pieces. There is the caliper and the mount. The caliper is held on to the mount buy two smaller bolts that become sliders. They are located inside the rubber boots. The mount is bolted to the frame with two larger bolts. To change pads you only have to remove the caliper. To change rotors you have to remove the mount as well.

The front calipers can be pressed back in with a C-clamp. The rear calipers have to be turned in. I recommend renting the tool shown in the attached installation guide from Autozone or Advance Auto. They give you a full refund when you return it. IDo not let the caliper hang by the brake line. Always use a piece of wire to hold the weight.

You do not under any circumstance want to disconnect the parking brake cables from the rear calipers. They are extremely hard to get back on. Put the bracket on first. Fit the pads into the bracket. Then put the caliper on. It's the only way you can get the bracket bolts in.

Front Installation Guide:Hawk HPS Brake Pads (1999-2004 Mustang GT/V6 Front Pair) - Installation Instructions at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping! - Free Shipping!

Rear Installation Guide: Hawk Brake Pads (1994-2004 Mustang GT/V6 Rear Pair) at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping! - Free Shipping!

American Muscle also has videos you can watch.

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post #8 of 17 Old January 26th, 2013, 03:25 PM
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Re: brake job

A way around the tool for the rear is needle nose pliars. I bought the tools from advanced,it didn't fit so I made do.

Brakes are really simple, and easy to change. I will be putting 6 pistons calipers on mine when ever they get powdered coated, been waiting for about a month now...
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post #9 of 17 Old January 26th, 2013, 03:33 PM
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Re: brake job

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Originally Posted by cobra241 View Post
A way around the tool for the rear is needle nose pliars. I bought the tools from advanced,it didn't fit so I made do.

Brakes are really simple, and easy to change. I will be putting 6 pistons calipers on mine when ever they get powdered coated, been waiting for about a month now...
I tried pliers once for the rear when I found out the cube I bought didn't work, after about 20 mins of messing with it I put the old pads back on and went to get the right tool.
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post #10 of 17 Old January 26th, 2013, 05:35 PM
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Napa sells a ford/gm brake caliper tool, its circular, not the cube one that's the "universal" one

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post #11 of 17 Old January 26th, 2013, 08:33 PM
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Re: brake job

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Originally Posted by 03redgt03 View Post
I tried pliers once for the rear when I found out the cube I bought didn't work, after about 20 mins of messing with it I put the old pads back on and went to get the right tool.
I put a zip tie on each prong of the pliers, held it closed and pressed it against the caliber then turned,I did it in no time at all.
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post #12 of 17 Old January 27th, 2013, 12:40 AM
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o and don't disconnect the calipers & brake line lol you will have to bleed the brakes which isn't fun i may be wrong but that is what i had to do when i painted my calipers.

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they have 4 slotted/drilled rotors & pads for $250. i got them; not bad, better than the stock ones i had.

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post #13 of 17 Old January 27th, 2013, 09:32 AM
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o and don't disconnect the calipers & brake line lol you will have to bleed the brakes which isn't fun i may be wrong but that is what i had to do when i painted my calipers.

Modular Mustang Racing

they have 4 slotted/drilled rotors & pads for $250. i got them; not bad, better than the stock ones i had.
mmr has the same brakemotive ones except they charge 100-120 more
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post #14 of 17 Old January 29th, 2013, 07:44 AM Thread Starter
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How does the rear tool work for the rear caliper? You turn it clockwise? How much do you turn it and does it have to be in a certain position? I think I read something about the notches having to line up at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock
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post #15 of 17 Old January 29th, 2013, 11:30 AM
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Re: brake job

You turn it clockwise but you also have to put pressure toward the caliper pressing it back in. It will not just "thread" in. To my knowledge it doesn't have to be in any particular position.
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post #16 of 17 Old January 29th, 2013, 11:36 AM
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+1 If you are using the rented tool, you just turn it clockwise. You have to constantly tighten up the tool because the caliper collaspes faster than the tool expands. You need to turn it all the way in. Until it won't go any farther. You will not be able to fit it over the new pads is you don't.

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post #17 of 17 Old January 29th, 2013, 11:46 AM
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Re: brake job

Seems like everything is covered except one thing. The caliper pistons do need to be in a certain position. There is a little nub on the back if the pad in the middle if it. You will have to line up the slot on the piston with that nub (so the nub is "in" the slot). Turning it all the way in should get you pretty close to where you need to be.

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