lower control arm relocation brackets
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Old March 20th, 2013, 07:11 PM   #1
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lower control arm relocation brackets


Looking to see if any of you guys have ACTUAL experience with or personally know someone who has done lower control arm relocation brackets. I've done a bunch of research, and studied numerous articles on the priciples of 4-link suspensions. I've also used narrow tape to layout all the pertinent parameters of instant center, center of gravity, 100% anitsquat etc. I have stock springs cut one coil, and my instant center is way off from where it should be for maximum launch traction (too low and way too far forward). I plan on fabbing up my own relocation brackets and compensating for the height loss by going back to full height stock springs. My question is has anyone done these and seen real world results at the track? Any negatives? The car is street driven but not a daily driver by any means
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Old March 20th, 2013, 08:13 PM   #2
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well i have the kenny brown brackets on the street it hooks way harder but havent been back to the track yet since you know what the current weather is here

i would have liked to make the brackets with even more off set but if you go more than the kb brackets then you will need to make spacers for the rear control arms
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Old March 21st, 2013, 12:10 AM   #3
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I'm interested on this as well. Anyone have any pictures?
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Old March 21st, 2013, 05:28 PM   #4
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sorry kinda a crappy pics taken with a cell phone and didn't take the time to jack it up



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Old March 21st, 2013, 06:55 PM   #5
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I was thinking about those Kenny Brown ones myself, but they seemed small and I was wondering how they allowed for the thickness change once the control arm dropped down below the factory bracket. Now I see they dont go that low and therefore thats not a need with those. what is the total maximum drop from the factory hole to the lowest hole on those? It looks to be only 1-1/2". I'll try to load pictures of the ones I'm working on making that have two alternate locations: one 1-3/4" lower than stock and the lowest one at 3" below stock. I'm a nube at uploading pics so bear with me if I cant get it.
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Old March 21st, 2013, 06:59 PM   #6
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here are pics of brackets in progress
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lower control arm relocation brackets-img_1160.jpg   lower control arm relocation brackets-img_1161.jpg   lower control arm relocation brackets-img_1163.jpg  
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Old March 21st, 2013, 07:09 PM   #7
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I made my side plates out of 1/4" steel plate, and for the area that drops below the factory bracket I welded in 3/16" spacers to compensate for the width to be the same as the arm mounting point is below factory. It's been a challenge to get them made well. Had to cut the individual pieces and clamp them around the factory brackets and them tack weld them in place, take them off to finish weld, and then mount them. Then I measured the radius of the control arm and swung a arc down the side to mark the centerline of the new lower holes so that the pinion angle wouldnt change (bracket and holes come forward as they go down to make that possible). A ton of aligning and calulating, but these monster are stout and provide a big drop option and should really get my sweet spot for instant center close to where I need it. You can see from the additional attached photo my tape lines of the existing. The two lower almost parallel lines are the upper and lower control arm lines (they never cross within the length of the car). The angled line is the 100% antisquat line, and the X near the middle of the door is the center of gravity. When the lower arm is relocated my instant center should be just below the center of gravity.
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Old March 21st, 2013, 07:29 PM   #8
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actualy the change was only 5/8" approx if i remmember right the middle hole is the factory hole that just gets left open and yea i thought the same thing when i bought them but come to find it is still within the factory bracket i would like to eventualy make some that go further to try it and with that 5/8" the rear axle articulates much easier with just control arms connected without springs

---------- Post added at 07:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:25 PM ----------

just wondering did you do the tape lines while the jack stands were under the control arms or the axle because it looks like to me that the axle looks awfully low and wow i havent seen anyone do that much in a long time

and my rear control arm bushings are f*&^$ED up so i ordered a prothane total car kit but unfortunately they outsource the sway bar links and have been on back order for 2 months
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Old March 21st, 2013, 09:00 PM   #9
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I set the jack stands way back on control arms so weight was carried same as if on axle, and notion of rear tire was same height off garage floor as front tire. Then I did the tape lines by measuring from to garage floor to upper and lower control arm bolts to establish the angles. Car is only lowered about an 1-1/4" so I can still fit the new 10-1/2" x 28" x 15" MT slicks that I haven't used yet. Between those and the relocated Lowe arms I hope to finally get some decent 60' times so I can get into mid to low 11's
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Old March 22nd, 2013, 05:34 AM   #10
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what rpm are you launching at
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Old March 22nd, 2013, 09:47 AM   #11
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just keep in mind that when you lower the rear control arm it is going to lower the rear of the car almost by the same amount so if you are off setting by 3 inches the rear of the car is going to be scraping

and also not to revise your design but you really want to make your bracket longer uptop so you will have room for atleast 1 extra bolt maybe a second one because of how much more leverage that new bracket will have you are basicly asking the shock bolt to keep the axle from rotating around the bolt hole were as on the kb they basicly made the lever in the opposite direction it has almost 2 times the leverage up above than it did down below ecspecially since yours wont be in the factory bracket like the kb ones still just barely make it
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Old March 22nd, 2013, 03:53 PM   #12
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Maybe not as cheap as making it yourself but CHE sells a rear end brace that has accommodations to relocate your lower control arms. I can't quite comment on how well it works as at the moment I have my control arms in the stock location, but if its anything like relocated uppers it will feel like your rear has been stiffened up a bit.
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Old March 22nd, 2013, 04:09 PM   #13
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would be a good option and that drops the arm even lower and looks like it uses the top hole for the factory location and then 2 lower positions but a nice price tag to match

for anyone interested
http://www.cheperformance.com/prod-321.htm
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Old March 22nd, 2013, 07:04 PM   #14
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Good points from you guys. The axle will never be lower as it is a factor of the wheel/tire diameter, so only the control arm goes lower , so if I compensate for that by either going back to full height springs (vs the one coil cut I have now) or adding a spacer at the spring perch the body height will be fine. I have bought all new Grade 8 bolts for the shock mount and the control arm brackets, but adding another new bolt hole up higher is a good idea. I've tried to watch my rpm's at launch to keep them below 3k, but as you know in the heat of the tree counting down and trying to time the clutch and gas with the last yellow it's hard to say. I never side step it. My plan is to go to my middle hole (1-3/4" down from the factory hole) and try that with my same Nitto 555r's and note the difference before trying out the new slicks. Don't want too many variable to try to decifer at one time. want to know what each mod is producing as results before adding the next one.

---------- Post added at 06:04 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:00 PM ----------

If I had it to do over again, I would have bought that Che piece as it looks like it accomplishes a lot of stuff at once. I bought and installed the Swar Bar axle brace a couple of years ago, and that was $175 if I recall. So add that to even my metal and bolt costs for my homemade brackets and I'm at $225 and won't have as nice of a set up.
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Old March 22nd, 2013, 07:10 PM   #15
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Yea I was talking about body height but sounds like you got it covered
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Old March 23rd, 2013, 12:11 AM   #16
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to give you a idea how much difference the bracket made i went to a place were i always do burnouts tonight and normaly i can do 3 gear burn outs all night no problems at all instead now the car just launches and thats with summer only runner in 10*f out side and on sealed pavement. so i would say yes they definitely make a huge difference in how the car launches and actualy starting to worry about my stock axles on the bias ply slicks
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Old March 23rd, 2013, 12:02 PM   #17
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looks to me like those brackets will lower the vehicle quite a bit. did you notice any change??
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Old March 23rd, 2013, 02:15 PM   #18
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mine it lowered the car about .5" which i have no iso's in the front and have both iso's in the rear and its no perfectly even front too rear
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Old March 23rd, 2013, 03:48 PM   #19
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On my old '95 i had a set of the lowers with relocation brackets, I cant remember what brand i believe it was lakewood. but anyways I couldn't get better than a 1.8 60', the car when i left would just pick up the rear it wouldn't squat. I changed to teamz lowers with normal mounting locations, i believe that was all i changed at that time, and i got high 1.6 60's. I think there's a reason you dont see many cars with these, and I'll never try them again.
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Old March 23rd, 2013, 06:28 PM   #20
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was your car lowered to start with?
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