Well, I have done quite a bit of research over the past few months. There is quite a few ways and options on our New Edge's on how to reduce weight. Some have even managed to get them all way down to around 2800 w/o the driver. My personal end goal is somewhere between 3000-3200 without me in it. But again, I have done quite a bit of research and figured I would share my knowledge with my fellow MM peeps, especially the DD's! Ya, not everyone is a hard parked douche bag that has deep pockets and more than 1 pony on the lot. So let’s get to it!
I will just throw out random sentences and parts in no particular order to better explain things. I will also include as many pics as possible. Before I start though, be sure to take a gander at this weight reduction list: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/modular-mustangs/148415-ultimate-weight-reduction-list.html I will be basing my weights off of this list, refer to it for any other ides or considerations of weight reduction.
First thing I want to start with is quad shocks. You do not need them, and its practically common sense that it should be the first thing that comes off of the car. I really have no idea why they are there. Anyways, they weigh 8 lbs. which does include both shocks and mounts. Yes, the mounts also come off of the car. You can also grind off the mounts from the axle housing. I found these 2 pics on Google to give you an idea of the location and the mount.
Than we have the "black boxes" behind the rear wheels. I actually did some research, they are crash absorbers that hit the tires in hope that it will move the car forward and/or use the tires to absorb a small portion of the impact. They don't weigh much empty.... Probably 1.2 lbs. for both of them. But filled with dirt (as any daily drivers will be) they weigh about 3 lb.s maybe 4 between the two and the dirt.
Here is a quick pic of the location of the boxes:
And its just two, 8mm bolts that hold it in:
Also, when they are out, be sure to remove the clip threads and put them back on the black boxes to store them:
Next up is the vibration dampener or commonly known as the: “Dog Bone”. It is secured in by two bolts, and is seriously just a 10 lb. dead weight bolted in front of the pumpkin to reduce the vibration that is caused by the whirling of the diff. Remove it, you will not notice a thing, unless you’re an old ****. Do NOT go and shave off the mounting points either, they are there for many aftermarket parts. I sadly do not have a pic of it, but if you look underneath your car, you can’t miss it.
Next thing is control arms. I would say that an easy 4 lb.’s can be had from switching out to billet control arms either from someone such as MM: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/s...o&cPath=514_21_91_427_454_458&products_id=518 UPR: http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-99-adjusable-lower-control-arms.html or Team Z: http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/Street_beast_p/tzm-sb-lca.htm. Match Team Z's lower control arms with some relocation brackets: http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/Weld_on_IC_brackets_p/tzm-icb-8.8.htm They help with traction big time on our cars.
Another big help in weight is a tubular front end (K-fram, A-arms). Only run tubular A-arms if you are going coil over because most of them rid of the spring perch. Personally, I will be looking into either MM or QA1: http://www.americanmuscle.com/qa1-tubular-kmember-9604gt.html for a K-frame. As far as A-arms, get the set that are designated for that k-frame and do NOT get a spherical set either, I would stick with rubber or poly urethane. I will also be looking into MM or QA1: http://www.americanmuscle.com/qa1-tubular-aarms-9404gt.html?source=igodigital for these. Going with a coil over setup teamed up with some tubular A-arms and a tubular K-frame can shed up to 40 lbs. I personally with be rolling with some Strange struts and a UPR coilover kit.
Next part is the rear bumper support. This is a fun one too, and its easy to do. All you need is some strait bar, a grinder and a drill, oh also a measure tool and a sharpie. What your going to want to do is remove the stock rear bumper support which includes the Styrofoam a bunch of bolts, and the rear crash bar. The post from earlier doesn’t have an exact weight on this, but I would say its at least 12 pounds. Here are some pics to give you an idea of how I did mine.
Before:
After:
The exhaust hangers (Yes they are fine and don’t bend at all):
The difference:
And next up is the opposite from the rear…. The front bumper support! This one will require a tubular front bumper support. Some people will tell you don’t need it (like how the rear doesn’t need one) but I didn’t want to risk it, and got a good deal on my Donathan racing piece, but you can order them here: http://donathenracing.com/Products.html This mod was easier than the rear, and saved me about 10-13 pounds. I also tore out some of the plastic flaps underneath, now all I have the is inner fender wells.
The bar:
And the before and after (I forgot to take a pic of the Styrofoam):
Next thing I did was the fogs. This was sadly probably only 2 lbs. at most w/ bulbs. I never used them, and had some covers to go in their place. Covers: http://www.americanmuscle.com/9904-smoked-fog-light-covers.html This is what I did for this.
I know for some people this isn’t an option, but deleting your EGR system saves weight, and seriously cleans your intake. EGR weighs about 5 lbs. It’s easy to do, and all you need in place of the delete is a block off plate for the plenum and a cap for the exhaust manifold. Just something to add, I fabbed my own EGR delete, and for $20 shipped, I will get you’re the 2 block offs in your choice of their silver or black (or brass for the cap). You will retain your stock gasket and bolts (unless you want fancy bolts like me… not).
After:
The block offs:
Next thing is the spoiler, it really doesn’t weigh much, I think it’s like 2 or 3 lbs. but if you have block off caps for the holes, do it. I kept mine for the time being.
Another thing that actually saved 2 pounds or so is the headunit/cd player. The stock one weighs like 4 or 5 damn pounds. I have a Pioneer U310-BT and it weighs like a 1 lb., not even.
As far as the interior, the front seats NEED to be replaced. I sadly have yet to get to this, but I have some seats, and brackets lined up. Front seats weigh 48 lbs for driver and 38 lbs for passenger…. That is a lot, lol. As far as the rear seats, they weigh 45 for all of it. I will be going with MMR RSD ( http://modularmustangracing.com.tempwebsite.net/cartgenie/prodInfo.asp?pid=44&cid=1 ) as they are the only ones that sell a tan RSD to match my tan interior (yes, I like my tan interior). I am also considering taking the time and deleting my rear seat belts. I know that has to be a good 8-10 lbs. I will be going wiht these Summit racing seats, and OMFG they are on sale! I know what my next paycheck is going too http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1159b-1/overview/ with these seats you will also need Summits Mustang seat brackets: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g11507904/overview/make/ford
For the rear seat portion, I do not have MMR's RSD YET but will have it soon. For now I decided to make the rear seat cushions stay in place. It took me a good 3 hours tops to knock all of this out. All in All I shaved around 10-13 lbs. (not including the 6-8 lbs. of rear seat cushions).
Here is before:
Bottom cushion out: For the bottom cushion, it is just the two clips at the bottom that you want to push on with a flat head.
Thats where some of my 7.62x54's went:
Top cushion out along with the buckles: This is also esay, just two 10mm bolts on the bottom, two at the top, and the entire bracket (along with trunk mat) comes out.
Passenger side quarter panel cover off: Remove the hanger hook (philips), front seat belt, plastic tab and carefully remove. The two smaller black clips in front of the quarter panel window will most likely NOT some out with the cover. Before you re-install the cover be sure to remove these tabs and put them back into the cover.
I used some strips of padding to reduce all of the damn noise this cover has been making (it worked):
And here is the pile of crap that was removed from the car:
And the after (without cushions or RSD):
The current status of my trunk AFTER I fit my cushions back on:
Now for the seat cushions, I just reinstalled the bottom cushion no problem, but the top took some skillzz... Start by getting a 15mm and removing the bolts on the side of the top cushions: After that, I set the top cushions in place, went in the trunk and zip tied the hooks to a slit in the frame: It works for now, I will be getting the RSD in two weeks so this won't be an issue.
And the after EVERYTHING pic: But their is one thing left to do because the rear seat "head rest" lost all of clips and mounts (its plastic crappy tabs that broke off REALLY easily).
Remove the rear seat "head rest" and remove the left and right rounded tabs: Next thing I did was drill two holes on each side (holes just big enough to thread the bolts I was using, you will need to locate your own bolts and make sure the drill bit you are using is just big enough). I than placed the rear seat "head rest" on top, had a buddy of mine put pressure on it as I went in the trunk and screwed the bolts in where the tab use to be (with lock washers).
Now for the front seats. But what could I possibly do to the front seats? Well removing the passenger seat is one thing, but removing the driver seat is another. Thats right, the passenger seat can work on the driver side VERY WELL. First thing you will need to do is remove the large nut holding the seat buckle in place and bolt it on the other side: Leave that cover off because it will be a tight fit between the center console and that spring: This is the left side without the buckle (it will be cleaned): And here is the buckle: It worked like a charm!!
Spare tire and components weigh 25 lbs, I have had all of that out for a few years now . Gutting the trunk will yield around a 10-14 lb. loss.
The hood, holy ****, the stock hood weighs a **** ton. Its part metal and part something else. I am personally going to get a CF hood, and paint it to match when the time comes. I know for a fact that will be a good 20 lbs. I don’t know the weight of the trunk lid, but I will also be getting a CF trunk lid and painting it to match.
Also rotor dust covers. I unbolted mine, and shaved a few pounds easy. I suppose if you are desperate, you can grind the mounts off as well.
Another thing to shave a good 25 lb.’s is pro dumps; in other words, cutoff the exhaust about 8 inches after the catbacks. I don’t plan on doing this for a good while.
I also want to delete my antenna and fill the hole on the fender. I know that will shave a good few pounds. Just something that came to mind.
Also when the time comes, I will be going with a tubular front end. This will shave about 20 or more lbs. depending on how hardcore you are about it. I will also mate that with a Teksid block when the time comes, ya that’s 80 lbs right there!
Some other obvious things are like an aluminum flywheel, and aluminum drive shaft. Those aren't cheap so they are not on the top of my list by any means
Besides all of that (I swear I am missing a few things) I always never fill more than a half tank of gas, that’s 20-30 lbs. right there.
As far as sway bars, I suggest either going with hollow SN95 sway bars, or keeping the stockers. Sadly, taking 80 mph turns on the highway without sway bars isn’t a good feeling. You might get away with deleting the rear, but I am personally going to keep mine on. I also refrain from going with a lightweight battery. I highly doubt those can keep up with a daily driver cranking the stereo and AC all day. This thread is made with a piece of mind that we daily drivers need our AC, stereos, airbags, and comfort for Gods sake. Speaking of comfort, also shave 15 lbs. with some coil overs Oh and if you’re really desperate, go ahead and get rid of those damn valve stem caps (mine are locking so I’m keeping mine), F8l swore he lost 10 lbs. without them :shiftyeyes
I hope I helped shed a good amount of light for a few DD’s that want to break 12’s NA. It can happen with the right combination, BTW. I will add to this list as discovery’s come to me that are worth a few lbs. Again, this is a daily driver directed thread.
I want to add something to all of this. Us new edge owners are one of a kind. I know the feeling, the new 5.0's have hella power and technology. I am going to tell you, with a little smarts, elbow grease and bucks, you can have something that will eat modded 2013's. I only spent $7k for my car, and only invested a few grand. Its only NA (for now), but I can tell you right now, you CANNOT get a new 2013 down to even 3500 without almost gutting it. Team up our low weight with a built 2v, and you can have a street legal 9 (or even 8) sec car NP. Another thing to note is our new edges are 1320 MONSTERS. The body, the rear end and the wheel base is nearly perfect for getting down some good times. New edge FTW!
---------- Post added at 09:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:46 PM ----------
Oh, another things to add, deleting the insulation under the hood is an option. I have no idea of the after effects, but I want to do it. Haven't done it though, afraid it might fade paint.
I will just throw out random sentences and parts in no particular order to better explain things. I will also include as many pics as possible. Before I start though, be sure to take a gander at this weight reduction list: http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/modular-mustangs/148415-ultimate-weight-reduction-list.html I will be basing my weights off of this list, refer to it for any other ides or considerations of weight reduction.
First thing I want to start with is quad shocks. You do not need them, and its practically common sense that it should be the first thing that comes off of the car. I really have no idea why they are there. Anyways, they weigh 8 lbs. which does include both shocks and mounts. Yes, the mounts also come off of the car. You can also grind off the mounts from the axle housing. I found these 2 pics on Google to give you an idea of the location and the mount.
Than we have the "black boxes" behind the rear wheels. I actually did some research, they are crash absorbers that hit the tires in hope that it will move the car forward and/or use the tires to absorb a small portion of the impact. They don't weigh much empty.... Probably 1.2 lbs. for both of them. But filled with dirt (as any daily drivers will be) they weigh about 3 lb.s maybe 4 between the two and the dirt.
Here is a quick pic of the location of the boxes:
And its just two, 8mm bolts that hold it in:
Also, when they are out, be sure to remove the clip threads and put them back on the black boxes to store them:
Next up is the vibration dampener or commonly known as the: “Dog Bone”. It is secured in by two bolts, and is seriously just a 10 lb. dead weight bolted in front of the pumpkin to reduce the vibration that is caused by the whirling of the diff. Remove it, you will not notice a thing, unless you’re an old ****. Do NOT go and shave off the mounting points either, they are there for many aftermarket parts. I sadly do not have a pic of it, but if you look underneath your car, you can’t miss it.
Next thing is control arms. I would say that an easy 4 lb.’s can be had from switching out to billet control arms either from someone such as MM: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/s...o&cPath=514_21_91_427_454_458&products_id=518 UPR: http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-99-adjusable-lower-control-arms.html or Team Z: http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/Street_beast_p/tzm-sb-lca.htm. Match Team Z's lower control arms with some relocation brackets: http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/Weld_on_IC_brackets_p/tzm-icb-8.8.htm They help with traction big time on our cars.
Another big help in weight is a tubular front end (K-fram, A-arms). Only run tubular A-arms if you are going coil over because most of them rid of the spring perch. Personally, I will be looking into either MM or QA1: http://www.americanmuscle.com/qa1-tubular-kmember-9604gt.html for a K-frame. As far as A-arms, get the set that are designated for that k-frame and do NOT get a spherical set either, I would stick with rubber or poly urethane. I will also be looking into MM or QA1: http://www.americanmuscle.com/qa1-tubular-aarms-9404gt.html?source=igodigital for these. Going with a coil over setup teamed up with some tubular A-arms and a tubular K-frame can shed up to 40 lbs. I personally with be rolling with some Strange struts and a UPR coilover kit.
Next part is the rear bumper support. This is a fun one too, and its easy to do. All you need is some strait bar, a grinder and a drill, oh also a measure tool and a sharpie. What your going to want to do is remove the stock rear bumper support which includes the Styrofoam a bunch of bolts, and the rear crash bar. The post from earlier doesn’t have an exact weight on this, but I would say its at least 12 pounds. Here are some pics to give you an idea of how I did mine.
Before:
After:
The exhaust hangers (Yes they are fine and don’t bend at all):
The difference:
And next up is the opposite from the rear…. The front bumper support! This one will require a tubular front bumper support. Some people will tell you don’t need it (like how the rear doesn’t need one) but I didn’t want to risk it, and got a good deal on my Donathan racing piece, but you can order them here: http://donathenracing.com/Products.html This mod was easier than the rear, and saved me about 10-13 pounds. I also tore out some of the plastic flaps underneath, now all I have the is inner fender wells.
The bar:
And the before and after (I forgot to take a pic of the Styrofoam):
Next thing I did was the fogs. This was sadly probably only 2 lbs. at most w/ bulbs. I never used them, and had some covers to go in their place. Covers: http://www.americanmuscle.com/9904-smoked-fog-light-covers.html This is what I did for this.
I know for some people this isn’t an option, but deleting your EGR system saves weight, and seriously cleans your intake. EGR weighs about 5 lbs. It’s easy to do, and all you need in place of the delete is a block off plate for the plenum and a cap for the exhaust manifold. Just something to add, I fabbed my own EGR delete, and for $20 shipped, I will get you’re the 2 block offs in your choice of their silver or black (or brass for the cap). You will retain your stock gasket and bolts (unless you want fancy bolts like me… not).
After:
The block offs:
Next thing is the spoiler, it really doesn’t weigh much, I think it’s like 2 or 3 lbs. but if you have block off caps for the holes, do it. I kept mine for the time being.
Another thing that actually saved 2 pounds or so is the headunit/cd player. The stock one weighs like 4 or 5 damn pounds. I have a Pioneer U310-BT and it weighs like a 1 lb., not even.
As far as the interior, the front seats NEED to be replaced. I sadly have yet to get to this, but I have some seats, and brackets lined up. Front seats weigh 48 lbs for driver and 38 lbs for passenger…. That is a lot, lol. As far as the rear seats, they weigh 45 for all of it. I will be going with MMR RSD ( http://modularmustangracing.com.tempwebsite.net/cartgenie/prodInfo.asp?pid=44&cid=1 ) as they are the only ones that sell a tan RSD to match my tan interior (yes, I like my tan interior). I am also considering taking the time and deleting my rear seat belts. I know that has to be a good 8-10 lbs. I will be going wiht these Summit racing seats, and OMFG they are on sale! I know what my next paycheck is going too http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1159b-1/overview/ with these seats you will also need Summits Mustang seat brackets: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g11507904/overview/make/ford
For the rear seat portion, I do not have MMR's RSD YET but will have it soon. For now I decided to make the rear seat cushions stay in place. It took me a good 3 hours tops to knock all of this out. All in All I shaved around 10-13 lbs. (not including the 6-8 lbs. of rear seat cushions).
Here is before:
Bottom cushion out: For the bottom cushion, it is just the two clips at the bottom that you want to push on with a flat head.
Thats where some of my 7.62x54's went:
Top cushion out along with the buckles: This is also esay, just two 10mm bolts on the bottom, two at the top, and the entire bracket (along with trunk mat) comes out.
Passenger side quarter panel cover off: Remove the hanger hook (philips), front seat belt, plastic tab and carefully remove. The two smaller black clips in front of the quarter panel window will most likely NOT some out with the cover. Before you re-install the cover be sure to remove these tabs and put them back into the cover.
I used some strips of padding to reduce all of the damn noise this cover has been making (it worked):
And here is the pile of crap that was removed from the car:
And the after (without cushions or RSD):
The current status of my trunk AFTER I fit my cushions back on:
Now for the seat cushions, I just reinstalled the bottom cushion no problem, but the top took some skillzz... Start by getting a 15mm and removing the bolts on the side of the top cushions: After that, I set the top cushions in place, went in the trunk and zip tied the hooks to a slit in the frame: It works for now, I will be getting the RSD in two weeks so this won't be an issue.
And the after EVERYTHING pic: But their is one thing left to do because the rear seat "head rest" lost all of clips and mounts (its plastic crappy tabs that broke off REALLY easily).
Remove the rear seat "head rest" and remove the left and right rounded tabs: Next thing I did was drill two holes on each side (holes just big enough to thread the bolts I was using, you will need to locate your own bolts and make sure the drill bit you are using is just big enough). I than placed the rear seat "head rest" on top, had a buddy of mine put pressure on it as I went in the trunk and screwed the bolts in where the tab use to be (with lock washers).
Now for the front seats. But what could I possibly do to the front seats? Well removing the passenger seat is one thing, but removing the driver seat is another. Thats right, the passenger seat can work on the driver side VERY WELL. First thing you will need to do is remove the large nut holding the seat buckle in place and bolt it on the other side: Leave that cover off because it will be a tight fit between the center console and that spring: This is the left side without the buckle (it will be cleaned): And here is the buckle: It worked like a charm!!
Spare tire and components weigh 25 lbs, I have had all of that out for a few years now . Gutting the trunk will yield around a 10-14 lb. loss.
The hood, holy ****, the stock hood weighs a **** ton. Its part metal and part something else. I am personally going to get a CF hood, and paint it to match when the time comes. I know for a fact that will be a good 20 lbs. I don’t know the weight of the trunk lid, but I will also be getting a CF trunk lid and painting it to match.
Also rotor dust covers. I unbolted mine, and shaved a few pounds easy. I suppose if you are desperate, you can grind the mounts off as well.
Another thing to shave a good 25 lb.’s is pro dumps; in other words, cutoff the exhaust about 8 inches after the catbacks. I don’t plan on doing this for a good while.
I also want to delete my antenna and fill the hole on the fender. I know that will shave a good few pounds. Just something that came to mind.
Also when the time comes, I will be going with a tubular front end. This will shave about 20 or more lbs. depending on how hardcore you are about it. I will also mate that with a Teksid block when the time comes, ya that’s 80 lbs right there!
Some other obvious things are like an aluminum flywheel, and aluminum drive shaft. Those aren't cheap so they are not on the top of my list by any means
Besides all of that (I swear I am missing a few things) I always never fill more than a half tank of gas, that’s 20-30 lbs. right there.
As far as sway bars, I suggest either going with hollow SN95 sway bars, or keeping the stockers. Sadly, taking 80 mph turns on the highway without sway bars isn’t a good feeling. You might get away with deleting the rear, but I am personally going to keep mine on. I also refrain from going with a lightweight battery. I highly doubt those can keep up with a daily driver cranking the stereo and AC all day. This thread is made with a piece of mind that we daily drivers need our AC, stereos, airbags, and comfort for Gods sake. Speaking of comfort, also shave 15 lbs. with some coil overs Oh and if you’re really desperate, go ahead and get rid of those damn valve stem caps (mine are locking so I’m keeping mine), F8l swore he lost 10 lbs. without them :shiftyeyes
I hope I helped shed a good amount of light for a few DD’s that want to break 12’s NA. It can happen with the right combination, BTW. I will add to this list as discovery’s come to me that are worth a few lbs. Again, this is a daily driver directed thread.
I want to add something to all of this. Us new edge owners are one of a kind. I know the feeling, the new 5.0's have hella power and technology. I am going to tell you, with a little smarts, elbow grease and bucks, you can have something that will eat modded 2013's. I only spent $7k for my car, and only invested a few grand. Its only NA (for now), but I can tell you right now, you CANNOT get a new 2013 down to even 3500 without almost gutting it. Team up our low weight with a built 2v, and you can have a street legal 9 (or even 8) sec car NP. Another thing to note is our new edges are 1320 MONSTERS. The body, the rear end and the wheel base is nearly perfect for getting down some good times. New edge FTW!
---------- Post added at 09:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:46 PM ----------
Oh, another things to add, deleting the insulation under the hood is an option. I have no idea of the after effects, but I want to do it. Haven't done it though, afraid it might fade paint.