[OcOnnor220]

I know a guy whos built cars before and told me that a 99-04 Saleen roots style supercharger kit would be a huge waste of money unless I built the motor up before I added it. Im not looking to have this gigantic chromed-out fire-breathing beast that needs a huge cal induction hood to fit over...I wanna just strengthen my 2V 01 GT engine a bit, and if Im gonna spend $5,000 for an overhead blower...Its NOT gonna be for people to look at, Im looking to get my money's worth out of it for that price. My engines' got 110,000 on it and I don't know why but lately Im paranoid about blowing it or making it overheat or what not...Crate motors? I know the story, its more likely you'll blow a brand NEW engine without babying it long enough rather than a veteran engine thats' been suped-up..Does anyone have any suggestions? As of now, Im still looking into used engine pull-outs...

[HMUSN]

just pull your engine out and get it forged.

getting it forged means you will have all new parts inside anyway so it's basically like having a new engine.

then boost the hell out of it and enjoy

[TheUNZippee!]

You can always run the Saleen S/C at a conservative boost level, see a nice hp gain, and not put too much stress on your motor. Just because it's a supercharger doesn't mean it will automatically hurt your engine. It depends on the boost. Then, one day, if you are able to throw a forged rotating assembly in the motor as HMUSN says, you can jack the boost up and party like it's 1999! lol

[RayzerFish]

If your going to run anything more than 9 lbs of boost you NEED to put forged pistons and rods at least in the bottom end. The crank would be a good idea too. It's actually recommended to lower the compression ration to lower than 10:1 with higher boost levels too. Personally, I'd rebuild the block you have or buy a spare to work on while still running your car and add forged internals.
BTW, if you have the stock 2v heads on there when your finished you won't get the flow rate through the intakes you need and a lot of the power adders potential will be lost. Slap a pair of patriot stage III heads on there. With 1.84" intake valves and ported & polish it will breath a lot better. Thats the expensive part though.

[dude496]

For the time and money, you'd be better off just getting a forged shortblock. When you look at all of the time back and forth between the machine shop, then all the special tools to speed file the rings etc...your pretty close to the same price. I prefer MMR but there are plenty of other companies to look at also.

As for the heads...yes you will gain more power with ported and polished heads...and even more with a good set of cams...but you will still get some pretty nice numbers with stock heads. But since your that far into it, might as well spend the extra couple bucks and go all out on the motor. Look at spending atleast 6k on a good motor (minus labor)

[Yella01Stang]

Forged bottom end most def, and would be smart to do the whole long block while your in there. Lots of places do good work I got a ProMod DSS short block and no complaints. Saleen blowers are more money for less boost, go whipple or kenne bell if you havnt got the blower already.

[hardhitter]

Originally Posted by RayzerFish If your going to run anything more than 9 lbs of boost you NEED to put forged pistons and rods at least in the bottom end.

I'm running 11lbs on the stock internals. Any one know the usual cost for forging internals including labor?

[futureMACH1racer]

Probably 1500-2200 for parts

[Yella01Stang]

My short block was $3100 shipped to the house