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The Turbo Build Has Begun

337K views 5K replies 173 participants last post by  SSG Pate 
#1 · (Edited)
shes up in the air, and ready to be undressed. Got my unvented propane heater installed and Im ready for a nice cozy winter project.






Im doing this in a couple different phases

Phase one Ill be redoing the motor to get it ready to take the boost ill be tossing at it. the plan is as follows

Replace Forged I beam rods with Forged H beam Rods/ ARP hardware
Keep stock ported heads
new main bearing kit
Rebalance rotating assembly
Install whatever Turbo cams I buy
put the motor back together
Complete Transmission overhaul with new converter to match cams.
remove 373 gears install 327 gears.
Button her up and reinstall the motor.

This should complete all my motor trans work then off to the next phase

CG Fabrication forward facing twin turbo headers WITH AIR CONDITIONING retention!!
Fab up my own exhaust from the downpipe back
Precision Ball bearing Turbos " size to be determined
Tread stone TRTT series intercooler
46MM waste gates
50MM BOV'S
Boost controller

Ill take pictures as I go as far as fabbing ETC.
2slow is coming down Friday to help me get the motor and trans out so the party can begin.:)


Got the intake off, motor mounts, ps pump all pulleys/ac compressor off tonight!



QUICK REFERENCE

Engine removal page 6

Battery relocation page 7

410 gear removal 327 gear installation page 9

Removing piston Rods ETC page 10

ALT paining page 11

Stock K member drop page 12

Custom catch can page 12

Rear Suspension page 13

KMS Fuel hat page 13

T stat modification page 14

Mishimoto radiator install page 14

Glens performance Fuel tank install/ modification page15

UPR Chrome molly K member/ A arms/ Brake upgrades page 16

Short block page 17

Oil pan modification for Turbo drain

Line lock page 20

Oil filter relocation kit page 20

5.0 motor running again page 21

Windsor heads arrived Page 22

MMR Billet oil pump 23

Head Stud install page 23

Timing cover polished page 24

Head and timing install page 24

Motor Dropped back in page 24

New wheels page 28

Intake and 6061 plenum install page 29

First startup no headers page 31

Radiator relocation page 33

TIAL BOV arrived Page 36

PS reservoir relocation page 37

Mishimoto R series intercooler page 43

Custom over flow tank page 44

Cold side piping install/ plus welded bungs page 44

coolant overflow tank installed Page 45

Flex radiator hose page 45

CD delete gauge install page 45-46

AEM gauge and sensor install page 48

Custom Vacuum block install page 49

Hot side exhaust started page 50

Precision 60MM waste gate arrival page 52

Welding up some turbo exhaust page 53

Procharger F1C VS Precision 7675 page 54

LOKAR dipstick Page 55

Precision 7675 Polishing page 55

LOKAR mounting page 56


CG Fabrication hot side page 57

Turbo installed page 57

Couple turbo Videos page 60

Turbo installed page
 
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#84 ·
I'll put up some more pictures as I remove things etc. I have springs and a battery relocation to do this week.
 
#88 ·
Im confused on what happened in this thread, all of a sudden everyone was arguing back and forth.

Anyways, Pate how quick do you plan on seeing full boost? What RPM?

And y2k02, how quick do you see full boost?

I am on the fence about a mid frame single or 2 smaller twins
 
#89 ·
I would like to see full boost somewhere in the low to mid 3000 range.
 
This post has been deleted
#92 ·
The fact here this is a thread about what I am doing and what I want lets keep it that way. There are 1000 ways to do this, and this is mine so sit back and enjoy this come to fold and lets not argue about other combos rather focus. on the one I'm doing.
This is going to be a good thread its going to cover gears, battery relocation, motor rebuild cam install, turbo install etc lets keep it on track.
 
#94 ·
It will get a different stall and possibly a transbrake.
 
#97 ·
Can't wait to see the build progress!

I have a customer starting a 2v/TFS headed/CMS cammed/88mm project right now.

That should be pretty badass!
I wish I would have done this the first time, but I had some fun with the car, now I would like to scare myself every time I hit the gas. Still have no ideal which brand turbos and which size to run. Ive got the motor figured out other then finding a SFI approved stock balancer.
 
#100 ·
Feels lines just need one running off the sending unit then Tee off for there to each turbo. -4 lines.

Returns should be at least -10 lines to separate bungs if you can.
 
#101 ·
-3 turbo feed lines, and -10 returns?

From now on as I go ill post pictures in the first thread with a small narrative I started so everyone can have a video diary.
 
#108 ·
Sorry guys, I meant -6 for the FEED, and yes -10 For both the returns.

It wont be a problem at all to weld me in another bung in the pan, I may just plug off the Vortech one and weld a drain bung on each side of the oil pan one for each turbo.
 
#109 ·
-4 for feeds...stainless braided lines.

---------- Post added at 09:05 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:04 AM ----------

Sides are a good spot too..not to far back though
 
#110 ·
This!

A -6 is way to much oil for your turbos.

Also the side can be better then the front because when you let off the gas and hit the brakes the oil sloshes forward and can block the drain for the turbos. This can cause smoke at the end of the track or under hard braking.
 
#111 ·
I'd the turbos are non ball bearing you shouldn't need restrictor. At least for PTE turbos. If you run two -10 or -12 return lines with no bends you shouldn't need a pump. One more thing to break.
 
#114 ·
Got some work done today, 2slow stopped in today we pulled out the motor, Trans and worked on the springs a little, Looks like I will need to cut out a few coils cause they are sitting way to high for my liking

Things will really slow down from here due to the machine shop work ETC, but I have a few other projects to tackle such as battery relocation/gears ETC.








 
#116 ·
I'm running ford racing springs, and I'm not sure about the shocks yet I have not bought those.

---------- Post added at 10:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:04 PM ----------

I need alittle help on my batter relocation. from what I understand, you

run one hot wire from battery to the fuse box
run one hot wire from battery to starter.
ground out battery in trunk
Ground out all the stuff hooked to the original negative cable to the frame somewhere in the front.

on the grounding to be safe I ran a ground wire from the trunk to all the stuff that was on the negative cable in the front which was those two small sensors or whatever they are.
 
#118 ·
No it really doesn't bother me at all, but I do have plenty to do between now and the time the machine shop gets done.
 
#122 ·
I removed all the stock wiring already!!! no need in dead weight. here is my plan

Battery to cut off switch side 1 then to starter and jumper wire to fuse box. 200 AMP Fuse between battery and switch.


8 Gauge from cut off switch side 2 to alternator. 200 AMP fuse in between ALT and switch

Ground out battery to frame in rear of vehicle.

run negative battery ground to all the wires up front that were originally on.

Power steering pump ground to Frame in front to ground out block.
 
#125 ·
Got The battery relocation done a little bit ago, DAMN this was a time consuming project. As you can see from the pictures I elected to go with the breaker style fuses. Still need to run a drain tube, and paint the inside fender where the battery was, but that's about it.

Started with this



ended with this



Hot wire for alternator ran into car through interior and into the trunk


starting to wire things up in the trunk




the end result



ya its a mess in there



still need to paint the switch and do the on off sticker.
went with it in this location because I found out it was illegal to alter a license plate in TN




 
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