[futureMACH1racer]

This is my first car, aswell as my first gasoline powered vehicle. I grew up on a farm and we all drove diesels. This car stuff is a big change so any help would be much appreciated. I wanna get my car to run mid 10's yet be streetable. As of now the car is stock with the exception of a Flowmaster exhaust, off road h-pipe, Steeda tri-ax shifter, FRPP 4:10 gear, C&L CAI, and I should be getting my SCT programmer any day now. My question is what else should I consider? What should say away from?[size=18][/size]

[Smoothgrandmama]

Headers, Cams, Heads, Suspension........., and some really fat tires

Oh and a little supercharger!

[Smoothgrandmama]

Welcome To MM!!!!!!

Someone's about to break down what I just said!

[SWEET2KSTANG]

Originally Posted by Smoothgrandmama Headers, Cams, Heads, Suspension........., and some really fat tires Oh and a little supercharger!

+1, do all that and build the rear end. welcome to the boards.

[HMUSN]

Welcome to the forums.
it's going to take a bit of cash and time to make your car run a 10 second 1/4.

for 10's your going to need a poweradder.

what also sucks is the compression is high on the mach so the motor in its state isn't the best for a blower.

look around our forums a bit and gather up some information.
then if you have any questions feel free to ask.

[Smoothgrandmama]

I didn't get Quoted With a +1.........

[SWEET2KSTANG]

fixt

[Smoothgrandmama]

Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG fixt

+1 :award

[neckbonekat]

Originally Posted by Smoothgrandmama Welcome To MM!!!!!! Someone's about to break down what I just said!

I agree with you.
heads
cams
headers
Throttle body
plenum
KB, Centri or turbo
nitrous
rear suspension
31 spline set up
Drag Radials

[00SlvrStang]

Originally Posted by neckbonekat Originally Posted by Smoothgrandmama Welcome To MM!!!!!! Someone's about to break down what I just said! I agree with you. heads cams headers Throttle body plenum big single turbo nitrous rear suspension 31 spline set up Drag Radials

fixed

[blue03mach1]

if you cant afford expensive parts such a "big single turbo".headers on a mach1 really make a difference. you will be very surprised on the difference it makes.

[03 R Code]

With the bolt ons you've got now you should be able to get mid 12's with some good drag radials. The only way to get your car to a mid 10 sec is either build the engine or drastic weight reduction and a small power adder like N2O. Check out the registry for some ideas.

Also, a BIG +1 ON BUILDING YOUR REAREND BEFORE ANY SERIOUS POWER. I just had to get mine redone with a 31 spline set up.

Suspension mods with good driving and good tires can get you into low 12's. But it's got to be on a good track too!

Doing heads and cams and all the other bolt ons will put you at maybe 400rwhp. It's not easy to get over that without a power adder or an all out super high RPM race engine. You would be better off saving the money that heads and cams will cost and using that to forge the bottom end and then get a large blower or turbo or even N2O.

[nikbait]

How much would forging the internals on a mach cost? What all is involved in doing that, as that is most likely what I'm gonna do when I get mine.

[03 R Code]

For a good set of rods and pistons it'll vary. If you have a Mach 1 with a 5 speed then you won't need a new crank as it's already forged. The autos have cast cranks and that would need to be upgraded while you at it. I'm not sure about prices on those things because the biggest factor will be the local shop's labor rates when they tear down the engine.

[nikbait]

5speed all the way yes So mainly its just the labor costs? There aren't any parts to buy?

[futureMACH1racer]

1st of all thank you all. 2nd yes the car is a 5 speed I do have a bit of experience on the tarmac. I had a Duramax than ran 11.8's w/ 2 stages of nitrous and slicks. So I am not worried about a driving issue. I have been told that a cobra motor swap might be my easiest choice, but how hard are "03 and '04 motors to locate? Once again thanx alot

[03 R Code]

For nikbait:

Oh yes there are parts to buy. I was saying that the labor costs would probably be the most expensive part of it all.

This is a few prices I found in the back of a 5.0 mag.

From Livernois motorsports: 4-valve 4.6 rotating assembly from $2,195.00 This includes a new crank, so you could probably save some money if you got just the pistons. A stroker assembly would be another $100.00 Not to bad if that's what you looking for.

DSS racing: 4.6 super MOD rotating assembly kit from $2,299.95 This is a stroker also, so it's about the same price. For their Level 10 short block kit it's $2,839.95. I'm not really sure about the DSS racing kits. I can't tell if these prices include the block or not. It's called a short block kit, so that would mean to me a block and all internals, but that price is pretty cheap...

Your best bet would be to call someone, some company, or a local performance shop and get their opinions on it and get them to quote you a price on it too. That way you've got something to save towards.

[nikbait]

Thanks, but what exactly is a stroker kit? Does that give more hp? And what about these kits, do they include everything I'd need to do the forged internals? I'm not real sure about the inner workings of the engine on a mach so I'm still learning

[00SlvrStang]

if your car is a daily driver and you want it to last i wouldn't get a stroker kit. it increases piston speed and increases the wear on your rings. for track duty its good though

[nikbait]

Ahh ok. Yes, I want the car to last
Just called 1 performance shop and he said with parts/labor it would cost me $10k to do forged internals on the mach...bleh I think I'll stick to easier less expensive mods and not race the car.