[mustang2517]

hey bros i was looking for things to drop the weight down in my 2001 GT my list so far is

aluminum drive shaft

spec clutch

aluminum flywheel

baer lighter brakes

also i was thinking of the rear seat delete kit and taking out the spare tire and things like that but what else would you guys recommend

[mustangmanic]

That should do it pretty much. Some steeda ultra light rims maybe.
some racing seats, but they're soooo expensive. Dont even worry about the breaks though man, that will barely drop any weight.

[HessiaN257]

I asked this question a couple weeks ago and got some great replies. Heres the link to the topic.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...s-vt37143.html

[WAR-PARTY]

K member saves you 65lbs

[CobraR]

^yes!

[00SlvrStang]

to get the most benefits you want to reduce as much rotational mass you can. rotors, wheels, tires, flywheel and such all need to be lightened. also forged internals do a lot to reduce rotational mass as they are generally lighter than their cast counterparts.

[TheBusher]

Originally Posted by HessiaN257 I asked this question a couple weeks ago and got some great replies. Heres the link to the topic. http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...s-vt37143.html

Heh, heh. I was just gonna post that

[Hunt_chevs]

Originally Posted by mustang2517 hey bros i was looking for things to drop the weight down in my 2001 GT my list so far is aluminum drive shaft spec clutch aluminum flywheel baer lighter brakes also i was thinking of the rear seat delete kit and taking out the spare tire and things like that but what else would you guys recommend

how do you like that drive shaft?

[xx9gt6xx]

Aluminum Driveshaft

Aluminum Flywheel

K-Member

Seat Delete

Lighter Wheels

Different hood made of a lighter compound

Those should do the trick. Good luck w/ whatever you do...

[1quickstang02]

if you dont mind me asking did u have that drive shaft made or did you buy somewhere

[mustang2517]

bought the ford racing one

[mustangmanic]

yeah. i also have the FRPP alum driveshaft. It gave back about 10hp from my flywheel to my rear wheels!!! just because of the drop in rotational mass.

All in all, rotational mass is most def the most important for dropping weight. alum will also be more durable than the stock counterparts.

[MATT02GT]

Move the battery to the trunk, should help distribute it.

[OcOnnor220]

I have a 2001 GT, I used to be looking to drop weight in mine but after talking to a few people who've built these cars, its not gonna make any kind of a difference unless you're using the car for 1/4 mile drag races on slicks...worthless dieting on the street. If anything you wanna make the ass heavier..I recently threw out my donut, ripped out the trunk liner and Im carrying a full-size fully inflated spare and now the car is actually connecting better with the road. Paying to get rid of the seats is a waste of money, getting rid of the A/C unit is a good idea, a lighter flywheel does'nt make the car noticeably lighter it makes your clutch pedal extremely loose.

[Drgnracin72]

BUT IT MAKES ROTATIONAL MASS LIGHTER. ROTATIONAL MASS FREES UP POWER. 1 POUND OF ROTATIONAL MASS TAKIN FROM YOUR CAR IS LIKE TAKING 8 POUNDS SOMEWHERE ELSE OFF OF THE CAR. TIS WORTH A TON.

[acmillr]

Originally Posted by 00SlvrStang forged internals do a lot to reduce rotational mass as they are generally lighter than their cast counterparts.

Incorrect. Get you a cast crank and a forged crank out of a 4.6. Get one of your buddies to blindfold you and pick each one up. That little exercise will end this conversation immediately. The composition of the two classes of metal being debated here will easily tell the tale. The forged parts have a much tighter, compacted grain structure with limited amounts of hydrogen pockets (air), while the cast items have a much looser (softer) grain structure and actually hold on to some air molecules during the casting process- which, BTW, produces a relatively light weight part. If you under 550-650 HP (that # is debatable), you are only hurting yourself by using a forged crank. Why would you spend the money on an aluminum flywheel, aluminum driveshaft, light weight balacncer, etc. and then sling the heaviest crank on the market in your block (if you are not building for serious boost or N2O)??

[04GTAMPA]

+1. ^

[03_StangGuy]

Originally Posted by OcOnnor220 I have a 2001 GT, I used to be looking to drop weight in mine but after talking to a few people who've built these cars, its not gonna make any kind of a difference unless you're using the car for 1/4 mile drag races on slicks...worthless dieting on the street. If anything you wanna make the ass heavier..I recently threw out my donut, ripped out the trunk liner and Im carrying a full-size fully inflated spare and now the car is actually connecting better with the road. Paying to get rid of the seats is a waste of money, getting rid of the A/C unit is a good idea, a lighter flywheel does'nt make the car noticeably lighter it makes your clutch pedal extremely loose.

Im sorry but your WRONG! Dropping any weight WILL help! And rotaional mass dropped will be even more noticable. You accelerate faster, get better gas mileage and handle better, which is noticeable on the street and track driving. The reason you experience better grip out back is due to the added weight over the rear wheels creating the need for more torque to accelerate and cause a loss of traction buts its not gonna make u perform any better, your actually performing worse!

[stangruns11s]

when dropping weight remeber thaqt every 100 lbs u drop is only 1 tenth of ur 1/4 mile time roughly i am in the process of droppin serious weight off the 87 but then again its a track only car so i dont have to worry ab out sway bars glass windows door panels carpet all that b ut for the street keep ur a/c and just get a smaller belt for when u go to the track and bypass the a/c

[00SlvrStang]

Originally Posted by acmillr Originally Posted by 00SlvrStang forged internals do a lot to reduce rotational mass as they are generally lighter than their cast counterparts. Incorrect. Get you a cast crank and a forged crank out of a 4.6. Get one of your buddies to blindfold you and pick each one up. That little exercise will end this conversation immediately. The composition of the two classes of metal being debated here will easily tell the tale. The forged parts have a much tighter, compacted grain structure with limited amounts of hydrogen pockets (air), while the cast items have a much looser (softer) grain structure and actually hold on to some air molecules during the casting process- which, BTW, produces a relatively light weight part. If you under 550-650 HP (that # is debatable), you are only hurting yourself by using a forged crank. Why would you spend the money on an aluminum flywheel, aluminum driveshaft, light weight balacncer, etc. and then sling the heaviest crank on the market in your block (if you are not building for serious boost or N2O)??

a cast crank has to be thicker than a forged or billet crank for strength which is why they are generally heavier. i didn't say all of them. another major factor in weight is the material used to make the crank and whether it has been lightened by machining the counterweights.