3.8 to 4.6 swap
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Old October 10th, 2007, 09:47 PM   #1
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3.8 to 4.6 swap


can anyone get me some info on a 2000 3.8 to 4.6 swap?? websites, personal info on the swap anything would be helpfull.
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Old October 10th, 2007, 09:49 PM   #2
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Old October 11th, 2007, 11:39 PM   #3
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Its not worth it...It would cost you almost as much if not AS much to get a 2000 GT than to have Ford swap the engines, drive shaft and drive shaft loop. The engine itself would set you back $5,000-$8,000 at least, add in the number of hours the mechanic would get $100 for working on it and its a huge job, not just drop-and-go it involves engine offsetting and complicated electrical wiring and connections...Only worth it if you were gonna go to a much more powerfull engine.
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Old October 12th, 2007, 02:47 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by OcOnnor220
Its not worth it...It would cost you almost as much if not AS much to get a 2000 GT than to have Ford swap the engines, drive shaft and drive shaft loop. The engine itself would set you back $5,000-$8,000 at least, add in the number of hours the mechanic would get $100 for working on it and its a huge job, not just drop-and-go it involves engine offsetting and complicated electrical wiring and connections...Only worth it if you were gonna go to a much more powerfull engine.
not entirely true. ive seen 2v 4.6 engines for fairly cheap (much less than 5-8000). theres a brand new cobra crate motor on another forum i go to for 6 grand clutch and aluminum fly wheel included if that tells you anything.

to swap a 4.6 into a v6 you gotta get new springs (heavier motor will cause the car to not sit right), new rear end (the v6's 7.5" rear end isnt strong enuff to hold up to 300+ torque), new bell housing for the tranny, ecu and wiring harness for the new motor, new exhaust (unless you wanna just get new headers and use your v6's Y pipe unless you have a true dual on right now), new fuel pump and injectors are needed i think, might be a few more things i forgot about.

end price is well beyong what it would cost you to sell it and buy a gt.
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Old October 12th, 2007, 05:40 PM   #5
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you can usually find a used GT engine for a couple grand or a little more. even still it's not worth it because of the other additional costs.
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Old October 12th, 2007, 07:38 PM   #6
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thanks for the help guys. i got a v6 for insurance purpuses and i am able to do my own work. i mean whats the point in being interested in cars if you cant do the work. motor is not a problem i got it already with 30,000 miles i paid $600 for it. i just need a little info on how to do the swap
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Old October 12th, 2007, 07:51 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by edwardson
thanks for the help guys. i got a v6 for insurance purpuses and i am able to do my own work. i mean whats the point in being interested in cars if you cant do the work. motor is not a problem i got it already with 30,000 miles i paid $600 for it. i just need a little info on how to do the swap
All you need is a GT computer, gauge cluster, 8.8 rear... now im not sure about trans, drive shaft ect but it should be that hard or expensive...
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Old October 12th, 2007, 09:31 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by edwardson
i mean whats the point in being interested in cars if you cant do the work
I'm pretty sure the point would be to drive them. :wink Good luck with your conversion.
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Old October 13th, 2007, 01:06 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by man_of_war2081
Originally Posted by edwardson
thanks for the help guys. i got a v6 for insurance purpuses and i am able to do my own work. i mean whats the point in being interested in cars if you cant do the work. motor is not a problem i got it already with 30,000 miles i paid $600 for it. i just need a little info on how to do the swap
All you need is a GT computer, gauge cluster, 8.8 rear... now im not sure about trans, drive shaft ect but it should be that hard or expensive...
driveshaft should be fine, the bellhousing on the tranny needs to be changed (i forget why, i think exhaust clearance issues or something i dont remember).

if you've already got the motor then go for it as thats the most expensive part. the rear end, wiring, ecu, gt springs, etc... can be junkyarded for cheap.


btw atleast tell your insurance company on a side note its motor swapped, your rates or deductable wont change as its still technically an LX, but you cant claim it if something happens to the car.
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Old October 13th, 2007, 01:43 AM   #10
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or all you would need is this

Originally Posted by TennesseeMustangPerf
I am swapping out my fiancee's 1994 Mustang 3.8L with a 4.6L V8, and unfortunately there is not a lot of information on this swap. As I go along with the swap (almost finished, THANK GOD!) I will update this parts list, but or now here is what all had to be swapped out and why. Hopefully it will guide you in deciding if this is the right swap for you, and if so it will assist you in the install. This will also, hopefully, keep you from buying a ton of stuff that you can reuse.



K member- It is believed that the K members are interchangable, this is true between 4cyl., 3.8L V6, and the 5.0L V8, but they are conciderably different on the 4.6L. I originally attempted to modify the K Member to work, but it is completely shaped wrong and DOES require hanging. Your old steering rack WILL bolt right up.

Engine, intake, fuel injector system A/C compressor, coil packs and wires, waterpunp, etc.- Well duh!

Computer- This might not be a requirement, you might get away with a chip, dunno. I had a GT comp, so in she went,

Engine harness- This will have to be changed out for obvious reasons.

Headers- I had to change headers beuase the ones that were on the motor (rown Vic police car) were too small in diameter and the flange hit the firewall.

Transmission- I had to change out transmissions bauase her AOD-E will NOT bolt onto a 4.6L. Thankfully, I had three 4R70Ws lying around. Standard (manual) transmissions should interchange though.

Transmission harness- The harness is the same between AOD-E and 4R70W, but the O2 sensor harnesses are different. You probably can modify your old harness to work though.

Which brings us to O2 sensors. I am not sure what the differences are, but the part numbers for the 3.8L and the 4.6L sensors are different, so I changed them out to be safe. Her old O2 sensors did screw right into the GT pipes though. Again, if using the old trans harness, you can reuse the O2s.

Brake booster- The Modular motors (even the 16 valve GT) will not clear the vacuum booster, so you will need to get a 1996+ GT hydroboost.

Brake booster to steering lines- The booster runs off the power steering pump, therefore you will need to get a set of 1996+ hydroboost and power steering rack lines.

Slight modification of the brake lines will be necessary, as the V6 lines go in from the side, the GT goes into the booster from the bottom.

Transmission tail piece- The ONLY reason why I had to swap these tailpieces out is because the Crown Vic has a larger diameter yoke, therefore the rear seal is too large, and for some reason I cannot get a rear trans seal for a 1996+ GT 4R70W transmission.

Exhaust- Includes intermediate pipe and mufflers.

Radiator- The hoses are in diferent places and are not the same size.

Overflow tank. To match the radiator.

Modification of the drive shaft- The old drive shaft will work, but you will need to either 1. have the shaft shortened approx. 1", or 2, cut off 1" off the yoke. The splines are the same from the V6 and the autos, but the motor pushes the trans. back slightly.

Motor mounts- They are not the same as the V6. I piked up a set of solid motor mounts for a GT for $49.00.

The dash wiring harness does NOT need to be removed for a 4.6L swap, but WILL need to be changed to swap out to a 5.0, as the pins are larger for the computer.

Starters- The starter is the same from a 3.8L to a 5.0, but are different for a 4.6L.

Alternator- Not the same as a 4.6, though 3.8 and 5.0 are the same.

A/C lines- As I stated above, the A/C ompressor is different, and the lines are too.

I have been asked this several times, and yes, fuel lines WILL bolt up the the GT rails. These do not need to be changed out.




I hope this helps out somebody, If I did not score the engine, all accessories, transmission, computer, and wiring harness for $100, and if I did not want to do something TOTALLY different to my fiancee's car, I would NOT have done the swap. This has been a nightmare, and will nickel and dime you to death. A 5.0 liter would have been MUCH easier, but in the end, I think it will be worth it. Good luck if you decide to do it though.
Rob
you have better luck of getting an new K member from UPR then finding something that is scrapped... thats what i would do anyways
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Old October 13th, 2007, 01:50 AM   #11
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In regards to your concern about insurance, be advised there might be issues flashing the computer that would allow the car to pass a state inspection without throwing codes, a lot of people who have done engine swaps that I know had a common problem related to emissions laws from problem codes in the computer. Rather than doing it yourself with a tuner you might wanna take either the entire car or the computer to Ford and have them finish it for you. Autozone has a good engine crane.
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Old October 13th, 2007, 09:49 AM   #12
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I would see if you can find a gt thats been wrecked but still has everything in it. Then its just a matter of moving all the parts you need into the v6 and buying what was broken in the gt.

Its possible to find one, talk to your local junk yards.
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