[strkrstng2000]

I got my mustang back. Just to remind everyone to what has been done here is the list:

-302 stroker kit (forged and balanced)
-Patriot stage 3 heads with their cams. The cams are close to comp stage 2 cams.
-Professional Products Intake ported and polished.
-BBk longtubes with magnaflow x pipe no cats.
-Custom chip tuned on a dyno
-BBk 80mm tb
-C&L intake plenum
-30lb injectors
-fender mounted CAI
-new alternator and optima battery

The only restriction I can think of are on the cai the tube is smaller than the mass air meter. The mass air meter sits on a 4" tube and the cai is 3.5". A lot of other cars I see with similar mods are in the 320 to 350 rwhp range. I am at 286 rwhp and 300 tq. That seems low to me. The differences between my car and some of the others with a stroker kit are intake or stage 2 heads from various companies. Can anybody give me any advice as to why I have spent thousands of dollars and have not cracked 300 rwhp?

[strkrstng2000]

WTF

[Garhfer]

Because you're going about it all the wrong way, the best way to get the best bang for your buck with these engines are force induction, these motors don't breathe good enough on their own, they need a supercharger, turbo or nitrous for some nice gains... you won't be pleased going the naturally aspirated route.

[yojoe600]

no matter what u have our 2v seem to be always sucking through a straw... that's why u force that damn air down its throat

[strkrstng2000]

I set it up for boost. I had 3 spun bearings and 2 rods knocking so I had to rebuild. I do not plan on stayin NA, twin turbos are in the future. But I have no idea why I am not breaking 300 hp. To be honest it makes me so fucking pissed off I feel kinda sick.

[Garhfer]

Originally Posted by strkrstng2000 I set it up for boost. I had 3 spun bearings and 2 rods knocking so I had to rebuild. I do not plan on stayin NA, twin turbos are in the future. But I have no idea why I am not breaking 300 hp. To be honest it makes me so fucking pissed off I feel kinda sick.

Well all you gotta do now is pop them turbos on and turn up the boost and see some wicked numbers, but then you gotta worry about supporting the frame, and getting the power to the street.

[Badasstang281]

Are you running high compression?

[man_of_war2081]

Originally Posted by strkrstng2000 I set it up for boost. I had 3 spun bearings and 2 rods knocking so I had to rebuild. I do not plan on stayin NA, twin turbos are in the future. But I have no idea why I am not breaking 300 hp. To be honest it makes me so fucking pissed off I feel kinda sick.

If it makes you feel any better, 286 rwhp equals to around 330hp at the crank... so 280+ at the wheels aint bad at all, plus you setup the engine for boost later so dont feel pissed or as if you wasted money cause in reality you didnt, you just prep it for more power than you could have ran through a stock long block.

[strkrstng2000]

The compression is either 9:1 or 9.5:1. My car is also an auto. I believe the internals are rated to 1500 hp I believe. It is an eagle stroker kit. The only bolt on I do not have are udps. I know different dynos give different numbers but, I don't give a shit what kind of dyno I am on I should break 300 rwhp. Other people have full bolt ons with cams and are throwing down 300 plus rwhp. I have p&p intake stage 3 heads plus an extra 21 ci. It does not make sense.

[Garhfer]

Originally Posted by strkrstng2000 The compression is either 9:1 or 9.5:1. My car is also an auto. I believe the internals are rated to 1500 hp I believe. It is an eagle stroker kit. The only bolt on I do not have are udps. I know different dynos give different numbers but, I don't give a shit what kind of dyno I am on I should break 300 rwhp. Other people have full bolt ons with cams and are throwing down 300 plus rwhp. I have p&p intake stage 3 heads plus an extra 21 ci. It does not make sense.

Maybe the place ya took it can't tune for shit?

[SWEET2KSTANG]

your problem is in the parts. everything you have is for volume of air, not velocity. the build i good, just not for n/a. it will be hard to optimize everything you have without boost. what compression you running? you said you built it for boost so i am guessing 8.5-9.0:1. the p&p intake and stage 3 heads will deliver a great amount of air, but the velocity to get the air into the cylinder is sown. air speed is vital and you are having a lot of air stall.

[Badasstang281]

Where do you live? If you are at a high elevation that will kill you’re hp. I live a mile high from sea level and it is 1 to 1.3 sec slower that at sea level. If you change that to hp that’s like 35 or so.

[WNTS 2RN]

I'm no expert, but I made 300hp with the mods in my sig. I'd look into your ignition or your tune. Maybe your ignition system can't keep up and the motor isn't as efficient as it could be. The other day I destroyed a plug and even though the car ran and ran fine it had no power (or at least a lot less).

[man_of_war2081]

Originally Posted by strkrstng2000 The compression is either 9:1 or 9.5:1. My car is also an auto. I believe the internals are rated to 1500 hp I believe. It is an eagle stroker kit. The only bolt on I do not have are udps. I know different dynos give different numbers but, I don't give a shit what kind of dyno I am on I should break 300 rwhp. Other people have full bolt ons with cams and are throwing down 300 plus rwhp. I have p&p intake stage 3 heads plus an extra 21 ci. It does not make sense.

That Auto trans is your problem, you lose alot more power through is than you would through a manual, if you had a manual im willing to bet you'd be just above 300RWHP

[strkrstng2000]

I live near st louis, so altitude is not the problem. The car will stay auto for consistency, although it will get an auto with a higher stall and manual valve body. Sweet2kstang your explination seems right. I wondered if I had oversized the heads for N/A. It seems I have but if that is the problem I can live with it until I get boost. Thanks everyone for your thoughts.

[TyCouey2000GT]

Either way, I still think he should be well over with that 302, tha heads, cams, intake, exhaust, cai, stock 289's have 235hp,

thats a lil weird to me, If i had to take a guess not knowing you had 286hp I'd think you'd have atleast 350

[gsjohnson]

Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG your problem is in the parts. everything you have is for volume of air, not velocity. the build i good, just not for n/a. it will be hard to optimize everything you have without boost. what compression you running? you said you built it for boost so i am guessing 8.5-9.0:1. the p&p intake and stage 3 heads will deliver a great amount of air, but the velocity to get the air into the cylinder is sown. air speed is vital and you are having a lot of air stall.

I agree for the most part. I'll bet if you dialed down the injector and T/B sizes you'd get a ton more torque with no horsepower drop. You might even gain a few HPs. What are your fuel pressure readings?

I have lots of simple bolt-on goodies(stock long block) on my car and it runs very well. In preperation for my Procharger, I installed #42 injectors with the Focus fuel pump, and a 75 mm T/B. I also installed the TR6 plugs. I decided I'd drive it for a week and finish the blower install the following weekend. The car couldn't get out of its' own way. My daughter's stock 2000 V6 stangnail would cream it. Needless to say, I parked my stangslug in the garage for the week to avoid any embarrasment.

[droppedbass87]

dude you could put a procharger at 15psi and have around 500 plus hp..thats a very good setup guys..

[jivepepper]

I have heard alot of people say they have lost power with the PP intake.

[SWEET2KSTANG]

its all about velocity with n/a, if you can not get the air to move you will lose power. especially when it comes to port work, that is why the people that do it want to know specificly what the car will be used for. it is easy to go over board with porting, cams, clutch, etc. once there is boost on the car, all that work will help. it will still take a good amount of boost with pretty good size head unit to utilize all the work.