[PowerShiftz02GT]

When people say my clutch is slipping. What does that exactly mean? This is my first car that has been manual. and the people i bought it from said they'd never changed the clutch and my mustang has 60,000 miles on it. soo im thinking im going to need it soon i guess. not really sure. how will i know when to replace my clutch. What are the symtoms that i will notice? Also ill probably upgrade to a performace one but that is still good for everyday driving. But how much will labor cost for a ford dealer to install it for me if i cant or somewhere else, maybe a private owned place that wouldnt be as much or something. im assuming any mechanic can replace a clutch with their eyes closed. so why go to a ford dealer i guess?

Thanks

[SWEET2KSTANG]

if you are wot and the engine revs and slowly comes down to where it should be, that is a slipping clutch. these transmissins are not that easy to pull and install on the ground. i can do it with my eyes closed most of the way through it, but i also have had mine out 16 times and only took 2.5hrs fro romoval and installation before headers. it is a lot harder with long tubes, it takes a lot longer now. i suggest a spec stage 1 or 2 depending on how much power you put down.

[Black02GT]

same issue here, im going with a spec stage 1. but im waitin for it to go out before i buy it. fuck it i have geico roadside and AAA

[PowerShiftz02GT]

yes i was looking at the stage 1 from spec. But i heard you need the High performance cable and a firewall adjuster to go along with it. if i went to a private garage or a ford dealer would they know about those extras you need with it. i want this to be installed correctly. i wish i knew how to do this stuff becuase i dont trust other people haha.

[neverfastenough1]

You can get a LPR SPEC clutch which would not require a heavy duty cable becase it has 5% lighter pedal than stock. If you get the regular SPEC, I would say get the cable kit from American Muscle. It is not that hard to put on yourself. It comes with the cable, firewall adjuster and double hook quadrant.

[neverfastenough1]

Also, there are a number of reasons for clutch slippage. Overadjusted cable, worn clutch and leaking seal causing clutch to be wet. More than likely it is a worn clutch. Remember to have your flywheel turned or get a new one.

[gtdan]

so what is it with mine ? when the engine is cold the first shifts grind and when its warm and rev to 5,200 rpms and power shift it sounds like a ''broooom'' type sound and the gear wont go in till the rpms drop till 4,500.

[HMUSN]

^stock shifter?

[SWEET2KSTANG]

Originally Posted by gtdan so what is it with mine ? when the engine is cold the first shifts grind and when its warm and rev to 5,200 rpms and power shift it sounds like a ''broooom'' type sound and the gear wont go in till the rpms drop till 4,500.

sounds like syncro problems to me.

[SWEET2KSTANG]

Originally Posted by PowerShiftz02GT yes i was looking at the stage 1 from spec. But i heard you need the High performance cable and a firewall adjuster to go along with it. if i went to a private garage or a ford dealer would they know about those extras you need with it. i want this to be installed correctly. i wish i knew how to do this stuff becuase i dont trust other people haha.

stage 1 and 2 dont require an aftermarket quad., cable, or firewall adjuster. that is a recommended item. if you want one, i have the old one off my car i will sell for a good price.

[Eagle2000GT]

I could be wrong but I thought Mustangs had self adjusting clutches and that if you hooked your foot under the pedal and lifted it would adjust itself.

How do you know if a clutch is slipping? If you go WOT in a higher gear, 2nd or 3rd, and the rpm go up, but the tires are not spinning and you are not accelerating, then the clutch is slipping. If you pop the clutch in first and the rpm go up but the back tires do not spin then the clutch is slipping.

My experience has been that a slipping clutch is fairly obvious. Mostly clutches are engaged or not engaged. A slipping clutch is one that is fully engaged but acts like the pedal is half the way down.

[neverfastenough1]

Originally Posted by gtdan so what is it with mine ? when the engine is cold the first shifts grind and when its warm and rev to 5,200 rpms and power shift it sounds like a ''broooom'' type sound and the gear wont go in till the rpms drop till 4,500.

Sounds typical of a worn or out of adjustment clutch. The reason it won't drop into gear until it drops rpm's is because the next higher gear will have lower rpm's for the same speed. It is like what us truckers do. We shift without the clutch and wait for the rpms to drop for it to fall into gear. In other words, sounds like your clutch isn't fully disengaging.

[neverfastenough1]

Originally Posted by Eagle2000GT I could be wrong but I thought Mustangs had self adjusting clutches and that if you hooked your foot under the pedal and lifted it would adjust itself. How do you know if a clutch is slipping? If you go WOT in a higher gear, 2nd or 3rd, and the rpm go up, but the tires are not spinning and you are not accelerating, then the clutch is slipping. If you pop the clutch in first and the rpm go up but the back tires do not spin then the clutch is slipping. My experience has been that a slipping clutch is fairly obvious. Mostly clutches are engaged or not engaged. A slipping clutch is one that is fully engaged but acts like the pedal is half the way down.

Yes, they are self adjusting, and can also be adjusted by hand if the adjnuster isn't working properly.

[SWEET2KSTANG]

the clutches are self adjusting stock. they can not hold higher pressures of strong aftermarket clutches. the stock clutches are all that great, and it would take a lot to wear out a stock adjuster. i dont think you could do it in the life span of one clutch kit.

[Eagle2000GT]

Originally Posted by neverfastenough1 Sounds typical of a worn or out of adjustment clutch. The reason it won't drop into gear until it drops rpm's is because the next higher gear will have lower rpm's for the same speed. It is like what us truckers do. We shift without the clutch and wait for the rpms to drop for it to fall into gear. In other words, sounds like your clutch isn't fully disengaging.

Yep. But its not the clutch pad causing the problem. The pressure plate isn't disengaging.

[gtdan]

pro 5.0 !!!!!!!!

[neverfastenough1]

Originally Posted by gtdan pro 5.0 !!!!!!!!

MGW!!!!!!! = more adjustable shifter position.

[Eagle2000GT]

Originally Posted by gtdan so what is it with mine ? when the engine is cold the first shifts grind and when its warm and rev to 5,200 rpms and power shift it sounds like a ''broooom'' type sound and the gear wont go in till the rpms drop till 4,500.

I went back and read this post a little better. Sounds like your syncronizers are either gone or about to go. Powershifting does that you know. Timing is very important. That little grind when you force it in gear is shreading you synchronizers.

[Black02GT]

Originally Posted by Eagle2000GT I could be wrong but I thought Mustangs had self adjusting clutches and that if you hooked your foot under the pedal and lifted it would adjust itself. How do you know if a clutch is slipping? If you go WOT in a higher gear, 2nd or 3rd, and the rpm go up, but the tires are not spinning and you are not accelerating, then the clutch is slipping. If you pop the clutch in first and the rpm go up but the back tires do not spin then the clutch is slipping. My experience has been that a slipping clutch is fairly obvious. Mostly clutches are engaged or not engaged. A slipping clutch is one that is fully engaged but acts like the pedal is half the way down.

the stock setup is infact self adjusting, but it only adjusts the clutch out not down. ( it adjusts the clutch to the top as it needs to, but will not lower the clutch closer to the floor )

ive tryed it. right now my clutch releases at the top, makes for hard shifting. it disengages at the top when i only push it in one inch. i dont have slipping if i run out first and chirp second but if i burn out in first and try to bark second it slips like hell and gives me a horrible clutch smell. in 2.3,,4th gear i can punch it and it pulls and doesnt slip. now ive tryed using the auto adjuster on my car and it only made it release even further to the top

it states to put your foot under the pedal, pull back slightly until it stops, then you have the car off, put it in first gear and slowly push the pedal to the floor and you should hear a clicking noise indicating that it has been adjusted.


also the spec stage one clutch doesnt require anything aftermarket to go along with it. if you go to their website it tells you the spec one is a ' great stock replacement and fits direct with no mods' and also states how the pedal wont be any harder . basicly its gona hold up better than the stock one but feel if not the same then close to it.