[silver99gt]

Im about to buy a set of springs to lower my car, i know i need to get some caster camber plates but my question is is there anything else i need to get for the install?

[HMUSN]

spring compressor.. you can rent this.

and when you get the C/C plates get the 4 bolt ones not the 3 bolt

[HessiaN257]

C/C Plates aren't always needed, it depends on the amount of drop.

[silver99gt]

They are an 1.5 drop front and back...how hard is the install?

[00redgt]

not hard at all,an u shouldnt need a compressor,i didnt,just

[00redgt]

just make sure u get a front end alignment afterwords

[silver99gt]

how about a bumpsteer kit or things a long that line?

[RC02GT]

Not needed but nice to have. I would get MM c/c plates. If your not on a tight budget do S/S while your at it.

[the misfit wolfie]

you should post some pics when your done.

[4POINT6]

i droped my car 2 inched and diddent touch anything else and its jsut fine you dont need no damn plates .. imo but you can i would jsut save the money and spend it on somthing else

[RAGEman]

Just a basic set of hand tools should suffice. You do not need a spring compressor at all.

Follow these steps.

Front: (est. time 30 min per side)
-Jack up and support front of car on jackstands.
-Remove wheels
-Remove brake caliper, remove brake line clip and ABS clip(two 10mm bolts behind strut)
-remove tie rod(easiest way is to remove bolt and take a large hammer and hit the cradle that holds it until it is free. DO NOT hit any part of the tie rod with hammer, damage can and will result.
-Place jack under A-arm and load the spring
-Remove the three nuts on top of strut(in the engine bay)
-SLOWLY lower jack. Allow A-arm to drop as far as possible. The spring should come out with little or no persuasion
-Re-trace your steps when re-installing.
-Repeat for other side.

Rear: (Est. time 30 min)
-Support rear axle on jack stands
-Remove bottom shock bolt where it is connected to the axle
-Remove other shock from where it is bolted on the chasis
-Remove sway bar.
-Lower the rear axle
-Springs will fall out, put your new ones in their place.
-Repeat steps in reverse.

This is super easy. Alot of articles you will find will tell you to remove the carpet in the trunk and unbolt the shock there, but that is stupid. Remove it from the axle. This is a super easy job that only took me about 1 hour 15 min. I used all pneumatics but it can easily be done with hand tools.

EDIT: Oh, and I used the Eibach Sportline kit and I did need CC plates.

[gsjohnson]

Originally Posted by 4POINT6 i droped my car 2 inched and diddent touch anything else and its jsut fine you dont need no damn plates .. imo but you can i would jsut save the money and spend it on somthing else

That's bad information (besides the spelling). You say you gave a 2 inch drop, can you tell me what your camber is set at?

[silver99gt]

whats the difference betweem the four bolt and three bolt caster camber plates?

[mcap]

why would you need c/c plates? also, what the maximum amount i can lower my car without changing anything else? i'm cheap.

[RAGEman]

Originally Posted by mcap why would you need c/c plates? also, what the maximum amount i can lower my car without changing anything else? i'm cheap.

Mine is the Sportline kit (2in front, 1.5in rear) and mine was off pretty bad without plates. The Pro-kit is 1.5 all around. It may work, it may not. If the only reason you're wanting to lower your car is to look good, then you're probaby going to want a 2in drop. If you try to go cheap by going with less just because you don't want to spend $150 on CC plates then you will be unsatisfied and end up spending it in the long run.

Long story short, get the CC plates. Dont wimp out.

[00vabchgt]

Originally Posted by silver99gt whats the difference betweem the four bolt and three bolt caster camber plates?

4 bolt allows for better adjustment, especially if you decide to go with coilovers further down the road...
+1 on the CC plates. it won't hurt to have it. some people can drop the car 1.5 inches and be fine, but every car is different. i used the Eibach Pro Kit, MM 4 bolt CC plates, and Steeda Bumpsteer Kit...

[StangAddiction]

I've got a buddy with eibach pro-kit springs and his was and still is fine with an alignment, but the plates are always nice..Im 100% positive the plates would have an improvement as the drop does set it off some regardless of how much it is. If you dont use plates, keep and eye on your tire wear.

[silver99gt]

My tire wear already sucks, so it would probably be best to have them then.

[gsjohnson]

A lot of bad info in this thread. Not to offend anyone, but CC plates should really be mandatory for anyone who lowers their car, no matter how minimally you think you have lowered it compared to other spring choices. So thinking with a Eibach pro kit as opposed to the the Sportline kit, that you will not have to install CC plates is a falacy. Did you know that caster is not adjustable on your cars? Yet your willing to lower your car which will throw your caster out of spec and not adjust it? Did you know that the correct caster adjustment or even adding 2 more degrees than stock will give you better freeway stability? Better straight line tracking? Quicker turn in response? And you guys want to cheap out? For you drag racers...Did you know that a slightly positive camber adjustment will give you less rolling resistance resulting in quicker ETs? Or for you (me) road racers and Autocrossers you can dial in more negative camber and the frontend will stick better? This is especially advantageous with all of the staggered wheel/tire combos running around. How 'bout this...Lowering your car reduces your suspension travel and it is quite common for those expensive shocks we buy to fail because we bottomed out and destroyed the valving in the shock. CC plates will increase suspension travel as well. Your car rides like shit when it bottoms the suspension, and it destroys parts. See it on the La bambas all the time out here in L.A. Now, the difference between the 3 & 4 bolt is that the 3 bolt controls both the caster and the camber. Which means you are moving the caster to get to the camber adjustment and vice versa. The two have to be adjusted simultaneously. To me those are crap...another short cut. The 4 bolt adjust the camber independently and the caster independently. Two seperate adjustments. Definitely the way to go to get your alignment specs right on instantly. Hope this helps clear up the myths and falacies. You can't cheap out if you want to do things right.

[RC02GT]

Originally Posted by RAGEman Just a basic set of hand tools should suffice. You do not need a spring compressor at all. Follow these steps. Front: (est. time 30 min per side) -Jack up and support front of car on jackstands. -Remove wheels -Remove brake caliper, remove brake line clip and ABS clip(two 10mm bolts behind strut) -remove tie rod(easiest way is to remove bolt and take a large hammer and hit the cradle that holds it until it is free. DO NOT hit any part of the tie rod with hammer, damage can and will result. -Place jack under A-arm and load the spring -Remove the three nuts on top of strut(in the engine bay) -SLOWLY lower jack. Allow A-arm to drop as far as possible. The spring should come out with little or no persuasion -Re-trace your steps when re-installing. -Repeat for other side. Rear: (Est. time 30 min) -Support rear axle on jack stands -Remove bottom shock bolt where it is connected to the axle -Remove other shock from where it is bolted on the chasis -Remove sway bar. -Lower the rear axle -Springs will fall out, put your new ones in their place. -Repeat steps in reverse. This is super easy. Alot of articles you will find will tell you to remove the carpet in the trunk and unbolt the shock there, but that is stupid. Remove it from the axle. This is a super easy job that only took me about 1 hour 15 min. I used all pneumatics but it can easily be done with hand tools. EDIT: Oh, and I used the Eibach Sportline kit and I did need CC plates.

Damn is it really as easy as that sounds?