[Steve O]

Well my plans for the car (on the long run) will be to either twin turbo or single turbo it. i have a couple of questions so here are some
ill have the engine forged before either but i want to know

1. what is the ideal compression for both? and also
2. if id lower the compression now would i loose dramaticly mpg by having low comp.?
i know that for single turbo there would be no use in buying a midpipe
3. but what about for a twins?
4. also would going with a termi 6 speed trans be worth it?
5. would it be a straight swap or what else would be needed?

thx in advanced and give your opinions too

[Steve O]

this sucks lol no onw has any answers? lol

[energiesource]

i know for the 6 spd transmission youd need a new driveshaft. but thats all i can help with. sorry

[Steve O]

no prob man thx anyway all input on this is good

[energiesource]

email the guy at hp turbos he knows practically everything about putting a turbo on a mustang

http://www.turbochargedpower.com/Contact%20Us.htm

[Steve O]

thx man

[uatlb]

Originally Posted by Steve O this sucks lol no onw has any answers? lol

ya gotta give it more then 22 mins lol

[KingChronic]

ideal compression for a turbo single, or twin would be 8.5:1. you build it just like you were building for a twin screw car, only difference is if you do aftermarket cam's, you need to get a turbo grind, not a SC grind.

lower compression will not drop yoyu MPG.

yes the T56 setup would be worth it. probably cheaper in the long run than getting a built T45, or T3650, whichever you have, and you get better gearing, and a extra gear aswell.

it is a pretty straight forward swap, you would need tranny, shifter, bellhousing, and a driveshaft.

you can typically find almost everyhting you need to swap for $2000-2500., and it will support almost any power you throw at it.

[Steve O]

Originally Posted by KingChronic ideal compression for a turbo single, or twin would be 8.5:1. you build it just like you were building for a twin screw car, only difference is if you do aftermarket cam's, you need to get a turbo grind, not a SC grind. lower compression will not drop yoyu MPG. yes the T56 setup would be worth it. probably cheaper in the long run than getting a built T45, or T3650, whichever you have, and you get better gearing, and a extra gear aswell. it is a pretty straight forward swap, you would need tranny, shifter, bellhousing, and a driveshaft. you can typically find almost everyhting you need to swap for $2000-2500., and it will support almost any power you throw at it.

thx man that was helpfull now i got another quesiton lol where can i get a forged rotating assembly that will lower the comp. to 8.5: 1

[GTsetGO]

Originally Posted by uatlb ya gotta give it more then 22 mins lol

+1, i am sure there will be more info as more people log on after work when they get home.

[00vabchgt]

Originally Posted by Steve O thx man that was helpfull now i got another quesiton lol where can i get a forged rotating assembly that will lower the comp. to 8.5: 1

i got mine from Sean Hyland Motorsport.
i went with 17cc pistons, which are the same as stock, so my CR stays about the same. it went up a tiny bit due to the 0.020" overbore on the pistons. i called them up and talked to one of their techs and told him what my plan was for my build, and he helped steer me in the right direction. DSS and MMR are also good places to check for rotating assemblies. i was going to buy from MMR, but the price they had for a forged rotating assembly was more than SHM and didn't even come with a forged crank, so i went with SHM...

[SWEET2KSTANG]

Originally Posted by KingChronic yes the T56 setup would be worth it. probably cheaper in the long run than getting a built T45, or T3650, whichever you have, and you get better gearing, and a extra gear aswell.

i personally would never install or recomend a t56 unless it was a road course car. the t56 just has a high first gear that makes launching crap comprared to the 5-speed cars. there is a 2.97 replacement out for the t56 that will help. a built t45 or 3650 is a lot cheaper than a t56 install, not to mention that you dont have to clearance the trans tunnel either. i paid half of a t56 swap for my built t45. the stock termi t56 is conservatively rated at 460ft-lbs. depending on how much boost you want to run is depending on what compression you need. the lower of course will handle more boost easier and be easier on pump gas.

[Steve O]

my plans are to forge everything before the turbos so when i get the money to put it on i know for sure that it will hold at least 500hp+ i know i wouldnt need forged everything for 400 or so but i want to make sure that the car will hold w/e i throw at it for when i get boost hungry and up the boost also before twins/single ill make sure the car has all susp upgrades available/braking upgrades/chassis stiffening/and all supporting mods so stuff doesnt go breaking after turbos i also want to go the turbo route cause i can turn up/down the boost whenever i want by a boost controller and it doesnt need to be at say 15psi for everyday driving i just want to have some6-8 psi for normal driving and if i have the need to get it up to say 15-18psi that it WILL hold it without risking the motor/car

[SWEET2KSTANG]

just a good set of rods and pistons will make the motor capable of 650. after that a crank is a good idea, and then the the bottom end will be as good as the parts you put in it.

[Steve O]

hey sweet2kstang thx for your input

[SWEET2KSTANG]

your welcome.

[KingChronic]

Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG i personally would never install or recomend a t56 unless it was a road course car. the t56 just has a high first gear that makes launching crap comprared to the 5-speed cars. there is a 2.97 replacement out for the t56 that will help. a built t45 or 3650 is a lot cheaper than a t56 install, not to mention that you dont have to clearance the trans tunnel either. i paid half of a t56 swap for my built t45. the stock termi t56 is conservatively rated at 460ft-lbs. depending on how much boost you want to run is depending on what compression you need. the lower of course will handle more boost easier and be easier on pump gas.

there is nothing wrong with the T56 for launching. if anything it will allow you to stay in 1st longer so you dont have to shift nearly as quick.

there are cars running high 9's all day long on the stock T56, soem with a 26 spline input shaft conversion, some without. they are also cutting as fast as 1.3X 60' times with the stock T56.

nothing wrong with it.

[KingChronic]

Originally Posted by Steve O thx man that was helpfull now i got another quesiton lol where can i get a forged rotating assembly that will lower the comp. to 8.5: 1

the rotating assembly isnt what lowers your CR, irs your combustion chamber. with the stock heads, a 17, or 18CC dish should put you right around 8.5:1 CR which is where you would want to be.

i would buy a 03 cobra crank, you can typically get them for about $200 or so, a set of 03 cobra manley H beam rods, that will be about $300, and then a set of -17CC dish CP pistons, and rings. i would also go .020 over aswell.

that should put you under $1500 for parts, then you should think about some ARP head studs, and some ARP main studs. you will then have a motor that will easily withstand 800RWHP. but to get there you would need to do somethign with the heads, and cams. and at that point the P1SC wouldnt be capable of enoguh boost for 800RWHP.

[SWEET2KSTANG]

i never said the t56 cant launch, or isnt any good. i said i wouldnt recommend it. there are a lot of guys that recommend it, i am just not one of them. they are a good trans, just not for me. a 17-18cc dixh piston will not be 8.5:1 in a 2v, that will make it 9.0:1. the 2v's are a 42cc head, and when the ear is taken off and chamber is worked on it will make it around a 45cc chamber. a 21-23 will take it to 8.3-5:1 compression.

[Steve O]

Originally Posted by KingChronic the rotating assembly isnt what lowers your CR, irs your combustion chamber. with the stock heads, a 17, or 18CC dish should put you right around 8.5:1 CR which is where you would want to be. i would buy a 03 cobra crank, you can typically get them for about $200 or so, a set of 03 cobra manley H beam rods, that will be about $300, and then a set of -17CC dish CP pistons, and rings. i would also go .020 over aswell. that should put you under $1500 for parts, then you should think about some ARP head studs, and some ARP main studs. you will then have a motor that will easily withstand 800RWHP. but to get there you would need to do somethign with the heads, and cams. and at that point the P1SC wouldnt be capable of enoguh boost for 800RWHP.

ah yes sorry i know i meant with pistons and all that and also i dont want procharger/vortech w/e lol im going with a twin turbo/single turbo setup