[drazga97]

so ive been looking at nitrous kits and noticed dry kits are alot less but it seems that they provide less hp. Although i really only want to run somewhere around 75. what is the difference between wet and dry (advantages and disadvantages)?

[SWEET2KSTANG]

they make the same power, just how everything is delivered. a wet kit has the enrichment fuel delivered with the n2o, and the dry uses the injectors to deliver the enrichment fuel. i recommend a wet kit, but a dry kit is just as good.

[drazga97]

if u were only shooting for around 75-90 would you still recommend a wet kit? if so why?

[SWEET2KSTANG]

i recommend a wet, just a personal preference thing. a dry will handle as much as wet kits will. i like the wet kits just for the fact the enrichment fuel is delivered independantly with the nitrous and dont rely on the injectors. something as small as a 75 wont matter, but when you move up in shots it might require larger injectors.

[Trick Tuners]

On a car with a returnless fuel system its best to run a dry shot and have the injectors take care of the fuel increase. Wet shots work best on return style fuel systems because there is extra fuel ready for the taking. The best option is to run a dedicated fuel cell/system for the nitrous that you can fill with high octane and run the same NA tune.

[GTblackprodigy]

i personally would go with wet..im actually planning on putting a complete kit with a150 wet shot in my camaro this year..just heard more bad things could go wrong with a dry kit..

[weems]

so for a 75 shot which one do you guys recommend? and joe i might get you to write me a nitrous tune when i get mine..

[Goblin]

Originally Posted by Jgorm On a car with a returnless fuel system its best to run a dry shot and have the injectors take care of the fuel increase. Wet shots work best on return style fuel systems because there is extra fuel ready for the taking. The best option is to run a dedicated fuel cell/system for the nitrous that you can fill with high octane and run the same NA tune.

Thats way to much BS for someone whos looking for 75hp worth of Nitrous.

The Dry systems are easy to install, and fairly easy to tune especially with small amounts like 75hp. If your using a return-less style fuel system, i would look into the Zex wet shot systems that are specially tailored for returnless style fuel systems (99-04). With 75hp, it doesnt really matter which way you go.. both will give you a kick in the pants and are safe.

[Goblin]

Originally Posted by GTblackprodigy i personally would go with wet..im actually planning on putting a complete kit with a150 wet shot in my camaro this year..just heard more bad things could go wrong with a dry kit..

Where did you hear this?

[WAR-PARTY]

Wet is what is used on S/C motors, not that you cant use them on a N/A motor. Here is the kit I bought, for my 4.6. I'm using a KB2.6 blower and the rest is top secret.
Zex

[johnr2001]

buy the nx plate system for the 4.6 its the best system for the mustang. very easy to install comes with 50 to 150 jets. its a wet system

[tom2000r]

I run no2 on 2000 gt.. talking to a guy at akron horsepower he told me to install a fuel pump for a 2005 mustang gt.anyone ever hear of this..are they better..

[WAR-PARTY]

^ why?

[SWEET2KSTANG]

N/A tune has way too much timing advance! this will cause detonation and blow stuff apart. nitrous is just like any other power adder, instaltions and tuning is the key! if done correctly and safely, it will be fine. when done wrong or short cuts are done, that is when problems occur.

[Trick Tuners]

Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG N/A tune has way too much timing advance!

Of course it does, unless you bump up the octane. Its only possible with a dedicated fuel cell filled with 100+ octane. (You typically pull only about 2* for each 50hp.) Then the extra octane can keep the nitrous hit in check at the same timing. Granted its a lot more work and $$$ for a small shot, but still the "best" way IMO.

[SWEET2KSTANG]

Originally Posted by Jgorm Of course it does, unless you bump up the octane. Its only possible with a dedicated fuel cell filled with 100+ octane. (You typically pull only about 2* for each 50hp.) Then the extra octane can keep the nitrous hit in check at the same timing. Granted its a lot more work and $$$ for a small shot, but still the "best" way IMO.

NO it dont matter what octane you run, N/A tuned timing will still detonate and cause nitrous back fire or detonation killing the bottom end. a safety reference is 1 degree for every 50 shot. you run colder plugs, back the timing out to prevent detonation. higher octane withstands detonation and takes more spark to efficiently combust, but an N/A tuned car still has too much timing for race fuels on the bottle. you can get more agressive on timing with race fuel, but still no where near an actual N/A tune. why would you even think about telling anyone this? its misinformation like this that cause people to try and end up blowing their shit.

[Goblin]

Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG NO it dont matter what octane you run, N/A tuned timing will still detonate and cause nitrous back fire or detonation killing the bottom end. a safety reference is 1 degree for every 50 shot. you run colder plugs, back the timing out to prevent detonation. higher octane withstands detonation and takes more spark to efficiently combust, but an N/A tuned car still has too much timing for race fuels on the bottle. you can get more agressive on timing with race fuel, but still no where near an actual N/A tune. why would you even think about telling anyone this? its misinformation like this that cause people to try and end up blowing their shit.

How much Nitrous are you talking about here?

[Trick Tuners]

Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG NO it dont matter what octane you run, N/A tuned timing will still detonate and cause nitrous back fire or detonation killing the bottom end. a safety reference is 1 degree for every 50 shot. you run colder plugs, back the timing out to prevent detonation. higher octane withstands detonation and takes more spark to efficiently combust, but an N/A tuned car still has too much timing for race fuels on the bottle. you can get more agressive on timing with race fuel, but still no where near an actual N/A tune. why would you even think about telling anyone this? its misinformation like this that cause people to try and end up blowing their shit.

Nope. Guys have run a 200 shot with this setup. If you figure one octane point is worth about 2* timing and you go from 91 with 105 in the N2O cell and figure on a big shot it will be at least 1/2 of the fuel on the wet shot then your final octane will be around 95.6 so the bump is 4.5 octane points or ~9* timing. That would allow about a 200 shot on the same timing (2*pulled / 50shot), or a 400 shot by your 1*/50 shot which is crazy BTW. Do the math and you'll see that its possible.

[SWEET2KSTANG]

Originally Posted by Jgorm Nope. Guys have run a 200 shot with this setup. If you figure one octane point is worth about 2* timing and you go from 91 with 105 in the N2O cell and figure on a big shot it will be at least 1/2 of the fuel on the wet shot then your final octane will be around 95.6 so the bump is 4.5 octane points or ~9* timing. That would allow about a 200 shot on the same timing (2*pulled / 50shot), or a 400 shot by your 1*/50 shot which is crazy BTW. Do the math and you'll see that its possible.

i dont know where the hell you get your info from, but your advise is strait crazy. all timing is set from stock, and colder plugs. each motor and build is different, 1 degree per 50 is a normal starting point on most set ups, each one will be different. colder plugs, and tuning will optimize n2o, but your total timing will not be anywhere near the same as an n/a car i am running a 125 shot, if you are sitting here and telling me that i need to pull out 5 degrees of timing, you're nuts. i safely run on pump gas with 2 degrees pulled out, and i am still on stock bottom end. no matter the set up of a car, detonation kills a motor, with nitrous, that detonation can lead to a back fire and really cause damage. the is no way in hell a 100+ shot of nitrous should ever run an full n/a tune, enrichment fuel cell with race gas or not.

[Goblin]

Originally Posted by SWEET2KSTANG i dont know where the hell you get your info from, but your advise is strait crazy. all timing is set from stock, and colder plugs. each motor and build is different, 1 degree per 50 is a normal starting point on most set ups, each one will be different. colder plugs, and tuning will optimize n2o, but your total timing will not be anywhere near the same as an n/a car i am running a 125 shot, if you are sitting here and telling me that i need to pull out 5 degrees of timing, you're nuts. i safely run on pump gas with 2 degrees pulled out, and i am still on stock bottom end. no matter the set up of a car, detonation kills a motor, with nitrous, that detonation can lead to a back fire and really cause damage. the is no way in hell a 100+ shot of nitrous should ever run an full n/a tune, enrichment fuel cell with race gas or not.

Okay, well im assuming we're talking about 100-200hp worth of Nitrous. You cant per say... run the same amount of timing you do with an N/A combo ( 40 degrees for example ) But, with race gas, you dont need to pull out as much as you would with pump gas, and 100-200hp. So, some of what hes saying is true. Race gas allows to run a little more timing, but it doesnt permit you to keep the same advance you run with an N/A combo. Thats loco man.