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Old January 16th, 2008, 07:36 PM   #21
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nvm, skipped over the SRA part.

is your axle built?

still need slicks, it will still spin them down the track.
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Old January 16th, 2008, 07:39 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by KingChronic View Post
its 12.5 around here you have to have a roll bar.

600 in a drop top isnt bad, jsut gotta have FLSFC's to keep it from twisting, and a better set of rear springs to keep them from hopping.
yes i got mm full lenght connectors there imo are the best. i got a 97 cobra rear end in it with 31 sp. mosers and new trac lock. with the stock 97 springs it does not hop. i just ditched the irs cause i got the 97 housing for free. so i just did it up, with the T/A cover too. now im thinking ??? i should have got the detroit locker. damm! i got s/ braded brk lines and 03/04 steeda spring on it , well only in the front now. cause of the irs the steeda wont work.

next is the clutch ??
dont know what type yet single or dual?
but im going to get the 26 sp input shaft and the T.O.B sleeve
i got a drive shaft loop but havent installed it yet.
i still got to delete my egr valve which rick turned off in the tune for me. i just want to cleaner look .
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Old January 16th, 2008, 07:39 PM   #23
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Old January 16th, 2008, 07:45 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by stroker408 View Post
yes i got mm full lenght connectors there imo are the best. i got a 97 cobra rear end in it with 31 sp. mosers and new trac lock. with the stock 97 springs it does not hop. i just ditched the irs cause i got the 97 housing for free. so i just did it up, with the T/A cover too. now im thinking ??? i should have got the detroit locker. damm! i got s/ braded brk lines and 03/04 steeda spring on it , well only in the front now. cause of the irs the steeda wont work.

next is the clutch ??
dont know what type yet single or dual?
but im going to get the 26 sp input shaft and the T.O.B sleeve
i got a drive shaft loop but havent installed it yet.
i still got to delete my egr valve which rick turned off in the tune for me. i just want to cleaner look .
the ford trac lok is fine, you would be suprised how many people use their factory cobra 31 spline diff with great success.

when you do clutch you really should do a LDC cooling mod, and a 26 spline input shaft. with that kind of power you are starting to get close to what a spec 3 will hold. i went with a spec 4, it holds more power, and jsut like the 3 it is a very easy peddle, and it actually chatters less than the spec 3, or DFX.

when you delete the EGR you can also get rid of that bar of crap on the driver side of the blower, the whole thing GONE, but you would need to have rick turn the rest of the stuff off too. that could be modified in a mail order tune though with the parameters you have.

the EGR delete is a very clean look, get to see the whole side of the blower, plus you get rid of the ugly ass tube.
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Old January 16th, 2008, 07:45 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by KingChronic View Post
it doesnt matter if you run a 8 without a cage, you still have to back it up for it to be legit.

the MM 6 point as long as the rear hoops are welded is 10.49, then below that you need a 8. i think once you have a cage, its then the same for times with vert, and coupe.

get a set of slicks for the back, with 600HP those nitto's will spin all the way down the track, and they have too little sidewall to launch on a IRS, your going to break something.
so king youre tell me that a mm 6 pt bar in a vert will be good for 10.49s? if so thats all i need. i dont think i'll be faster than that. yes im going to run it once with the nittos than prob get some welds for it 15x10s in rear with 11.50x27 hoosiers on rear and 15x 5s or 6s in front , if i go out of town i'll put my stock rubber back on.
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Old January 16th, 2008, 07:45 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Smoothgrandmama View Post
I can't See sigs!
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Please post #'s!
604/525 on 93 gas 17 deg timing ... 11.4 A/F 19 psi
641/557 on 104 gas 20.5 deg timing 11.6 A/F 19 psi
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Old January 16th, 2008, 07:46 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by stroker408 View Post
so king youre tell me that a mm 6 pt bar in a vert will be good for 10.49s? if so thats all i need. i dont think i'll be faster than that. yes im going to run it once with the nittos than prob get some welds for it 15x10s in rear with 11.50x27 hoosiers on rear and 15x 5s or 6s in front , if i go out of town i'll put my stock rubber back on.
dont hold me to it, but im almost certain. post up in the terminator section on SVTP.
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Old January 16th, 2008, 07:49 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by KingChronic View Post
the ford trac lok is fine, you would be suprised how many people use their factory cobra 31 spline diff with great success.

when you do clutch you really should do a LDC cooling mod, and a 26 spline input shaft. with that kind of power you are starting to get close to what a spec 3 will hold. i went with a spec 4, it holds more power, and jsut like the 3 it is a very easy peddle, and it actually chatters less than the spec 3, or DFX.

when you delete the EGR you can also get rid of that bar of crap on the driver side of the blower, the whole thing GONE, but you would need to have rick turn the rest of the stuff off too. that could be modified in a mail order tune though with the parameters you have.

the EGR delete is a very clean look, get to see the whole side of the blower, plus you get rid of the ugly ass tube.
oh rick did the even flow cooling mod when i was up there the GEN 2 VER, nice set up . you dont have to take the blower off. my car turned 30k on the way back home. that was a awefull site.
rick turn the egr off all ready in the tune i got to call steve tousley ford to get the delete kit , my car almost the way i want it
if it wasnt for this new 5.0 mag with the new 5.0 mod block in it for sale now damm.
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Old January 16th, 2008, 07:51 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by KingChronic View Post
dont hold me to it, but im almost certain. post up in the terminator section on SVTP.
not a bad idea!
what a content blocker ?
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Old January 16th, 2008, 07:52 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by stroker408 View Post
oh rick did the even flow cooling mod when i was up there the GEN 2 VER, nice set up . you dont have to take the blower off. my car turned 30k on the way back home. that was a awefull site.
rick turn the egr off all ready in the tune i got to call steve tousley ford to get the delete kit , my car almost the way i want it
if it wasnt for this new 5.0 mag with the new 5.0 mod block in it for sale now damm.
he probably only turned off the EGR valve, not all the other sensors on the side of the blower.

i talked to steve at tousley too, and he said they no longer make it. i ended up buying the one from Performance Parts - Ford Mustang - Cobra - Dodge Viper - Chevy Corvette - C6 - LS1

jsut make sure you get their's, not the UPR one, the UPR only works for GT's.

the even flow kit is nice, but i like the way the LDC is un seen.
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Old January 16th, 2008, 07:53 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by stroker408 View Post
not a bad idea!
what a content blocker ?
its a BS item, sort of like a cock blocker, blocks out the good shit you want to see.
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Old January 16th, 2008, 07:54 PM   #32
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here i dug up my old ported eaton motor pick i couldnt use the c/l inlet tube with the kenne bell.
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Old January 16th, 2008, 07:59 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by KingChronic View Post
he probably only turned off the EGR valve, not all the other sensors on the side of the blower.

i talked to steve at tousley too, and he said they no longer make it. i ended up buying the one from Performance Parts - Ford Mustang - Cobra - Dodge Viper - Chevy Corvette - C6 - LS1

jsut make sure you get their's, not the UPR one, the UPR only works for GT's.

the even flow kit is nice, but i like the way the LDC is un seen.
yes he turned off the canister and all off he said , ill have to do it , and see if the light comes on.

yes they run it under on the side of the v/cover.

he did a dyno pull with a 3.0 pulley too. 21 psi
#'s where
643/572 had to back down on timing due to heat

rick said you tell me if its worht swapping the pulleys for 3 more rwhp and 20 more tq.?

i agreed with im not worht it

unless motor is all the way cool .than i would run a 2.75 pulley to spice things up.

im content where im at now. just going to get that new block, and build on it slow, them take another ride up to rick, but 1 or 2 years away at least
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Old January 16th, 2008, 08:02 PM   #34
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heres my other toy got many.
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Old January 16th, 2008, 08:11 PM   #35
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Nice #'s
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Old January 16th, 2008, 08:12 PM   #36
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nice ss
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Old January 16th, 2008, 08:12 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by stroker408 View Post
yes he turned off the canister and all off he said , ill have to do it , and see if the light comes on.

yes they run it under on the side of the v/cover.

he did a dyno pull with a 3.0 pulley too. 21 psi
#'s where
643/572 had to back down on timing due to heat

rick said you tell me if its worht swapping the pulleys for 3 more rwhp and 20 more tq.?

i agreed with im not worht it

unless motor is all the way cool .than i would run a 2.75 pulley to spice things up.

im content where im at now. just going to get that new block, and build on it slow, them take another ride up to rick, but 1 or 2 years away at least
with the bigger motor to get the most out of it, you may want to invest into a 2.8H, or even the big 3.4L whipple.
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Old January 16th, 2008, 08:20 PM   #38
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i know king about the 2.8s , i always waste money.

thanks for the info on the delete kit.

if i go 5.0 mod motor it will have stock cams and heads still.i know it unshrouds the valve to make it breath better , and iam not looking to be the fastest , maybe just get 700 mark!

i got no idea what these #'s would be in dyno jet terms ? you ?
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Old January 16th, 2008, 08:22 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by 00mustanggt View Post
nice ss
thanks its a 68 SS with a 489 with 8-71 TBS blower ,2 750s , i havent touched the car in 2 years.its for sale
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Old January 16th, 2008, 08:27 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by stroker408 View Post
i know king about the 2.8s , i always waste money.

thanks for the info on the delete kit.

if i go 5.0 mod motor it will have stock cams and heads still.i know it unshrouds the valve to make it breath better , and iam not looking to be the fastest , maybe just get 700 mark!

i got no idea what these #'s would be in dyno jet terms ? you ?
dyno jet really doesnt read much higher. and dynojet reads high IMHO, if you ask me, mustang dyno, and dyno dynamics both give legit numbers. if you want a dyno queen, go to the DJ, if you want to know what your really making, go to the MD, and DD.

you can get the the 700 mark on the stock motor with a 2.8, or 3.4. the 3.4 is definently the better blower, you jsut dont hear about ti much since there's only about 25 kits out there.
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