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Bullitt 5381 build

19K views 218 replies 21 participants last post by  Dassar 
#1 ·
Hey guys, some of you might remember my ON3 turbo install last year (http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/projects/362138-01-bullitt-on3-install.html). Well I've been wanting some more power and I'm about ready to start the project so figured I'd make a thread to document it.

I picked up a built shortblock to start.
Forged stroker motor
-ARP Main Studs
-ARP 2000 Rod Bolts
-ARP Side Bolts
-Forged Kellog Stroker Crank (3.75")
-Forged Manley H Beams
-Forged Manley Platinum Series Pistons(-23cc Dish)
-Manley Steel Rings
-ARP Pro Series Headstuds.
-Balanced Rotating assembly
-Clevite bearings throughout the motor.
-Block was bored .020 to 3.572
-MMR oil pan
-Melling oil pump



After UPS delivering my package to the wrong address, I received my parts 3 days after UPS said it was delivered.



Got trickflow track heat 44cc heads, MMR stage 3 turbo cams, all my timing components, lifters, rockers, and head gaskets.

The heads are dead sexy....





There are still alot of odds and ends I need, but I'm planning on getting the heads installed this week.
 
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#4 ·
So today I installed the cams and heads....





When I went to install the timing stuff I hit a snag. The block is a romeo block from a 97 and it uses the old style chain guides. The timing kit I got has the new guides on it.



So I either need to get a longer oil pump bolt to use the new style guide or order the old style guide. Not sure which direction I'm gonna go yet....

this is how she sits at the end of the day.

 
#5 ·
personally i would use the new guides, there have been improvements over the years and they are stronger and have better wear characteristics. what assembly lube are you using? it looks like it is redline, if it is i would be a little more generous with it.
 
#7 ·
i typed it wrong, you want to use the steel backed chain guide off the older style motors, they don't deflect/break like the plastic ones. i looks like you are using the trick flow guides which the arm that is hooked to the Tensioner is fine, just the back guide should be changed out for the steel one which is a direct bolt on for that 97 block.

OEM Ford 4.6L Steel Backed Straight Timing Chain Guides
 
#9 ·
i guess mmr now sells trickflow guides cause those are exactly what i got when i built my motor. the link that i posted from modular head shop is the steel backed guides for 94-98 blocks. they should bolt right up, and with the newer metal upper Tensioner arm you will be set with the top of the line Tensioner arms
 
#16 ·
Hopefully they don't give you the ones you already have! Idk if I got lucky or not.

---------- Post added at 11:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:43 PM ----------

If it helps I either asked for ones for a 98 gt or an 04.
 
#19 ·
So today I received the valve covers I ordered off a dude on corral. I'm slightly annoyed, it looks like he might have tried to pry one of the baffles out and broke it in two spots. I wouldn't care too much, but now it feels kinda loose. Plus the fact he didn't mention it was messed up pisses me off.



I might have to add some kind of adhesive to it to ensure it doesn't end up breaking off at some point..... thoughts?
 
#22 ·
Well I've been neglecting this thread and my car. Been busy, but made some progress this week. Received the spring compressor I ordered so i got the rockers installed.



Decided to sand and paint my valve covers DHG to match the car. I used to have a paint matched JLT intake and thought it complemented the car so figured I'd give it a shot. I pulled the drivers side one off the car, since the one I ordered had aforementioned issues. Full disclosure, I suck at spray painting... but they turned out decent.

Sanded the ridges off first. Saw this somewhere on a forum and liked it. Its a pita...



Problem with sanding that much off them is the little fibers in the plastic start to show.



After priming, they become brittle though so you can re sand them off.





The drivers side was alot more time consuming than the passenger due to the oil filler and breather fitting being in the way.


I'm still waiting on some parts to finish the new motor so figured I would start taking the car apart to get it ready. Started pulling the turbo kit so I could pull the trans (old rear facing ON3 kit) and found this in the first cold pipe.



Looks like dirt mixed with metal flakes? I've always run a filter so not sure about the dirt. I used to have smokey exhaust so I added an oil restrictor and it seemed to rectify the issue, although it does seem like a good bit of oil in there. (PCV is deleted btw). Maybe bad seals? I won't put money into this on3 turbo, I'd rather buy a replacement if needed. Although there doesn't seem to be too much play on the turboshaft. None in and out and minimal side to side. Only about 3k on the turbo.



Then i got to pulling the trans.... this is the access cover.



I had this damn issue last year. The fork slides off the pivot stud and contacts the cover. I was unaware it was doing it again. I replaced the fork and stud last year and it obviously didn't fix it. Any suggestions?


Got the trans out and this is pretty much how she sits.....



Hopefully I'll get time to get the top undressed to i can pull it soon.
 
#24 ·
On that oil pan did you notice if the drain fins near the very most front were pushed down? reason I ask is because on A stroker motor the rotating assembly will hit the fins as it rotates and cause an awful mess. The fix for this is to push the fins downward which gives the clearance needed for the Assembly to rotate without hitting the pan.

Your SB is almost identical to mine she will definitely hold down some big power.
 
#26 ·
No need to worry about that looks like yours have been removed.

Nice build Ill be watching to see how things go or if you need any assistance.
 
#28 ·
Got some time last night to work on it...

the old motor all hooked up ready to go


Enlisted the prego wifey for assistance pumping while I check everything was clear.




Next on the to do list is install my line lock while the engine is out of the way. Might do a battery relocation too, but still debating on that.
 
#31 ·
Thanks!

Nice build! What valve springs are in your heads? What sprockets did you use on the crank and cams? Did you degree the cams?
Did you check for the correct clearance between the follower and cam base circle?
The valve springs are the heavier track heat ones from trickflow. 150lbs I believe, I'd have to look through the paperwork to be certain. My tuner actually recommended that I didn't degree the cams, so I just used OEM Ford sprockets. Also, no I did not check for the follower/cam clearance and just saw your thread about having issues. You have to check with the lash adjuster bled all the way down, correct?
 
#30 ·
Nice build! What valve springs are in your heads? What sprockets did you use on the crank and cams? Did you degree the cams?
Did you check for the correct clearance between the follower and cam base circle?
 
#32 ·
The 150lb springs were a dual spring setup. Didnt look like you had the dual springs.
Yes. The instruction s that shouldve came with your heads has a diagram showing how to check for correct clearance.
Cant believe your tuner would say not to degree them. Did he give a reason for not doing so?
With stock crank gears I had to retard mine 6* on right bank and 4* on left bank to have them at the 111* icl they called for.
 
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#33 ·
Son of a... your right. I never checked, but just looked at TFS website and the track heat heads are supposed to have dual springs. My invoice from MMR clearly says track heat, but I obviously don't have dual springs. Although the TFS website shows both versions of the springs as "track heat" I paid the extra money to MMR for the "upgraded springs" which is the version they list as track heat. Damnit, I'm sure I'm screwed since I've had them for over a month. I'll give them a call tomorrow, but IDK if it will do any good. Kind of irritated right now, good eye y2k02. Think the 125lb springs will be fine?


As for the degreeing, I don't know to tell ya the truth. He just said it wasn't worth it, idk that hes ever seen them that far off. And I've read some horror stories about the adjustable cam gears so I wasn't really pushing for it.
 
#34 ·
TFS-51910004-M44 come with 125lb springs.
TFS-51910004-M44 come with 150lb springs.
The 125lbs springs will be okay if they have the correct install height.
The cam tunnel was moved some on the trick flow heads and throws the timing off.
I used the adjustable cam gears the mmr sells.
Last year I just used the trick flow adjustable crank gears and got them close.
The cam gears allows you to get them as close as you want.
Here is a good thread to read. I bought my stage 3 cams from the guy in this thread that had the issue with chain being too tight.
Those with Trickflow heads I need help!!! - Modular Revolution Forums
 
#35 ·
Interesting read. I haven't had issues with the chain being super tight, but I may have to look into an adjustable crank gear at least.

So this confirms that I do have the 125lb springs. I'm ashamed for not double checking when I received the order.

 
#37 ·
Yea, no worries. I went on TFS website and checked it out. Also spoke with MMR this morning. So I guess on their site, the regular TFS heads have the 90lb springs in them. The "upgraded springs" they offer are the 125lbers. They don't have the tfs heads with the 150lb springs listed and the tfs site doesn't list it with 90lbers, thus the confusion. Would be easier if they used the TFS part number, but oh well. Least I go what I paid for.
 
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