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Old January 26th, 2008, 02:28 AM   #21
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Aight man, yeah im not real familiar with buffers and a junker hoods a great idea. Wouldn't wanna burn mine or anybody elses paint cuz of lack of knowledge. Appreciate it bud, I'll have to try that.
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Old January 26th, 2008, 02:32 AM   #22
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anytime man...if you pm me i will write in much more detail...maybe make a vid...who knows...its a matter of getting your own rythem and what works for you...like that pad and compound works for me but with one of our other detailers using the same thing just his own technique, if thats how you spell that..., he cant get the same results as i can
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Old January 26th, 2008, 02:34 AM   #23
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Yeah dude if I need some more advice on it I'll do that. Gotta look into the buffer and all first, I think learning to do it would probably be worth it.
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Old January 26th, 2008, 02:38 AM   #24
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for sure... eBay Motors: DEWALT Polisher/Buffer Kit with Bag & Gloves Mod DW849 (item 200194010539 end time Jan-28-08 04:50:17 PST)

that is a good one for home...thats what we have
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Old January 26th, 2008, 10:40 AM   #25
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Well im very unhappy with all the fine scraches and scraches i got from the stupid car wash you sure it will get it out? im not douting you guys but im lookin for reassurance. I have a buddy that might buff it what does he need to do give me a quick rundown plz

sry im askin you guys to repeat what you said
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Old January 26th, 2008, 10:47 AM   #26
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If it were me I would try a good paint polish like this first:


CAR POLISH,ULTRA FINISH FOR CAR ENTHUSIASTS WHO DEMAND PERFECTION,A TRUE MULTI USE ONE STEP POLISH

If that doesn't fix it, then I would go find a reputable detailing shop in your area, and ask him what he thinks and how much he will charge to do it. If you're not familiar with buffing paint, especially with a machine, I would let a professional do it.

I have a guy in my area who charges me about 100 bucks to buff and wax a car, depending on the car and condition of the paint.
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Old February 7th, 2008, 08:38 PM   #27
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what do you guys think of HI TEMP products are they any good?
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Old February 7th, 2008, 10:52 PM   #28
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I just got both bumpers and the driver fender painted at ford and it was $1,700 but i got hit by someone so their insurance paid for it so its okay.
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Old February 7th, 2008, 10:53 PM   #29
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just get it wet sanded and buffed
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Old February 8th, 2008, 09:27 AM   #30
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Another option for a polisher that's popular for home use is the Porter Cable 7424 Random Orbital Polisher. Going with a random orbital polisher can help keep a newbie from burning a hole in the paint or cutting entirely through the paint on an edge - something that you're prone to do with a standard rotary unit. (Especially at first as you learn ) And the "practice hood" that workinprogress recommends above is an excellent idea. Be sure to get one with some ridges and work on the edges a bit too - flat spaces are the easy part!

Last edited by TG02GT; February 8th, 2008 at 09:31 AM.
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Old February 8th, 2008, 12:53 PM   #31
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yeah i heard good things about that porter cable. i need to get one, but what are some of the best waxes out ther? i usually use Meguiar's..
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Old February 8th, 2008, 03:27 PM   #32
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How Often Do You Wax You Car??? Do It By Hand If all Your Goin To Do It Wax Once A Year!
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Old February 8th, 2008, 03:46 PM   #33
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i wax mine at least twice a year, and use a cheap 10" orbital buffer.
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Old February 9th, 2008, 12:37 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by lonestarrider View Post
yeah i heard good things about that porter cable. i need to get one, but what are some of the best waxes out ther? i usually use Meguiar's..


Well, it kind of depends on how fanatical you are. And opinions on "the best" are as varied as those who use them and the results that they get.

There are two ways to go at it - a wax or a sealant. If you're waxing, a high quality carnuba wax is generally considered best, a popular brand being P21S or something like it. On the sealant side, Zaino is considered by many to be the best, although there are others that are poplular as well.

And of course, if you go fanatical on the detailing there are a number of steps leading up to the wax/sealant - wash/dry, clay, polish (medium -> mild), and then the wax/sealant. (Which can have a two or three step application in and of itself.) The polish step is especially important if you've got dark colors like black or a dark blue or dark green and want to get the swirls and micro-scratches out of it. (And where the PC 7424 comes in.)

Generally, a good carnuba wax is "warmer" and provides more depth, and a sealant is more durable - although either of those statements are based on the outcomes of individual users and the eye of the beholder...
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Old February 9th, 2008, 01:22 PM   #35
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Thanks newbie..uh i mean TG..here's a rep
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