[kevin86freeman]

so does anyone know how much it would cost to get a good paint job im talking bout making my car look like it just got off the line you know. I feel stupid cause i went to the local car wash cause i like my car clean and i think the brush put alot of fine scraches on my paint...and im pissed well anyway anyone got an idea of how much? i also wana keep my mach 1 strips

[Montanasvt]

why would you spend all that money to repaint it if you could just get it buffed...you should see some of the wonders my dad has done by buffing.... but i would say prolly around 1,500$-1800$ for paint and labor if done right

[workinprogress]

+1 on the buffing, i am a master detailer and you should see some of my work

[00silvergt]

+1 If you are only worried about fine scratches, then just get it buffed out. 10 times cheaper. And for future reference, dont ever use the car wash brushes on your car. They just hold the dirt from other dirty cars. Just like washing your car with a 'Sand mit'

[kevin86freeman]

so you think buffing it will really take out almost a good portion of the scraches...

... thanks for the info guys makes me feel alittle better

[workinprogress]

lol "sand mit", im even scared of the touchless ones now, after what happened the other night

[kevin86freeman]

oo ya sand mit im never doing that again......

im just going to wash my car with my own stuff from now on

[workinprogress]

omg, you can go with a black pad and cut compount and work back to a blue pad and final finish compound, will look and feel like glass, also claybar your car first, if you dont know how to buff, i would not suggest taking this on yourself, a detail shop would be the place to go, ask to see thier work on a black car...for total scratch removal and claybar, should be under 200

[00silvergt]

hey workinprogress, did you ever hear back about your claim?

[Montanasvt]

Originally Posted by kevin86freeman so you think buffing it will really take out almost a good portion of the scraches... ... thanks for the info guys makes me feel alittle better

it will take out most of them if not all of them... if you were to wet sand it first... it would look brand new...

[kevin86freeman]

oooo sounds nice so go to the local detail shop and ask for a what?

sry im a noob i look up to you "older guys"

[00silvergt]

just ask for a good buff job, LOL, sorry if that sounds bad, hahahaha

[workinprogress]

+1 on the wet sanding too, i have a weekend requested off in march to do my car...the whole thing...and yes, the estimate from the same body shop it just came out of is $2366.47...not out of my pocket, they will be taking off a layer of paint on the whole passenger side and then repainting all of it, replacing the stripe on that side, replacing that mirror, repainting my rear bumper, replacing the bumper inlays...kind of happy actually--almost entire car will have been repainted now

[workinprogress]

lol...tell them you want total swirl mark removal...say TOTAL!! and ask to see their work first, inspect their buffing pads, ask about compounds, even if you dont know anythign about coumpound, if you ask they will have the, "this guy knows his shit" mentality, and they will do a better job than they would for joe blow

[workinprogress]

when you look at their work, look for burn marks on any tight corners, sharp edges, and espicially any and all black rubber pieces like moldings and weatherstrips...

[mixedbreed02gt]

a good paint job starts at about $2500 - $2800. this is normally for one color, or duplicoat, or tricoat (mixture of several colors like your sonic blue's, mystichromes, green/blue color changing (like seen on the 98 Chevy PU truck w/ shortbed), that's a very pretty color.

more expensive paint jobs are normally your designs, flames, intricate details that take a lot of time, and can cost anywhere from $5,000 - $1,000,000

totally strip all the paint off the car, and fix any scratches, rock chips, gouges, dents, waves, ripples, cracks, etc, prime the car, block it, prime, block, prime, block, to get everything totally straight.

then prime final coat, and put on coats of paint with clear. then the wet sanding starts. if the guy who does the wet sanding is any good, then you're paint job will come out better than showroom if he's not it will have tons of tiny micro surface scratches that you will be able to see.

you can ask for clear paint independently of your regular basecoat, at least 1 or 2 good coats can really help seal the basecoat even better, and preserve a longer lasting paint job.

some painters will tell you that's not true, but that's because they don't want to do the extra work.

a good paint job will usually take 3 - 5 weeks.

maaco paint jobs are only recommended if you need to fix cosmetic damage and sell a couple quickly...they can cost about $299 and up...but dont expect them to last longer than 4 years.

[workinprogress]

+1 on the wet sanding experience of the painter...my guy did an amazing job, but now i have some swirls where they tried to buff it...i can buff it back out

[mixedbreed02gt]

unfortunately my car is beyond claybarring and buffing, even wetsanding wont take care of the problems my car has.

i have touch up paint almost on every panel, rock chips galore on the front bumper and hood. the roof is scratched up from the neighbors stupid cat thinking it's his place to sleep at night (no worries about that anymore, he's been efficiently relocated to the bottom of a pond thirty miles away in a tied up pillow sack), i have ripples above my door handles where people push the door in with their hands (yes this does make the surface uneven and you can see it), i have a few barely noticeable door dings, and i have a big gouge on the ledge of the rear bumper right underneath the rear license plate.

so my car is going to have to go in for paint while my motor is being built next spring, I'm going to have them do the whole car, put on 03 cobra bumper, stalker ram air hood, roush spoiler, cobra sideskirts, and a cobra rear bumper, but I am going to have them cut out the word cobra, and put in a solid piece of urethane and mold it all together, and have them also spray the engine compartment as well.

my motor will just be a forged 2V with polished and ported heads by (TEA - total ngineairflow.com), with a supercharger (either a whipple, KB 2.6, or a procharger). thinking 500-600 hp should be sufficient, and it will be mated up to an RPMTransmission T-56 6 speed.

1st pic is what it looks like now
2nd pic is what it will look like (Minus the stock hood, and sideskirts)

[Black Betty]

Workinprogress you got any buffing tips? I do some detailing locally but no buffing cuz i don't trust my skills in that enough yet, but i just more less do the basic thorough cleaning and shampooing and wax type deal. Been doing it for quite a few locals for the past two or three years and always looking for ways to improve.

[workinprogress]

yeah...what you wanna know? basics? i would say that if you buy a buffer and supplies, include a junk yard hood as supplies so you can practice...alot of it is using the right supplier, i use a dewalt buffer...pretty standard in detailing, 12 amp 1000-3000rpm...i use a crest final finish yellow pad and you just have to find a compund that works for you...it takes some time to learn, you will try something new one time, step back and look and be like ahhhh...like freakin glass...no swirls or anything