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Discussing Tranny Fluid Change in the 99-04 Forum. Im about to change my transmission fluid in my 01 Cobra and needed to know ...

       

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Old February 7th, 2008, 12:18 AM   #1
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Tranny Fluid Change


Im about to change my transmission fluid in my 01 Cobra and needed to know a couple things... How can i tell what tranny i have ( 3650 or T45) im pretty sure its the 3650 And how many Qts does each take ( same or different amounts)...I read that you need to make sure the fill plug will come out before you drain it, but what if you're putting it through the shifter? I am planning on using Royal Purple ATF, but i read of people using Max Gear or Synchromesh or Synchromax or something like that, I thought our trannys took Automatic Fluid? Also, I read about over filling, Some people said its good and others said its bad... I read that 3.2 Qts is what you need to put in???
 

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Old February 7th, 2008, 12:21 AM   #2
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idid this a few months ago.

i have the t3650. i used mobil 1 atf and have yet to have a problem.

I filled it up with a hand pump while it was on jacks becuase knowing my luck id drop the fluid in my cars interior and fuck it up if i went through the shifter.

Trans Fluid Swap

Over the years, Mustang transmissions have been fairly consistant and have gotten better with time. As a basic guideline, here’s the breakdown of what transmissions came from Ford:


Mustang Model
Transmission
5.0 L (up to 1995)
Borg-Warner T-5 5-speed
1995 Cobra R
TTC 3650 5-speed
1996-mid 2001 GT and 1996-1999 Cobra
TTC T45 5-speed
2000 Cobra R, 2003-2004 Cobra
TTC T-56 six speed
Mid 2001-2004 GT, 2001 Cobra, 2001 Bullitt, Mach 1
TTC T-3650 5-speed
All 1994-2004 V6
BW/TTC T-5 5-speed, but a different model T-5 than the v8
2005 GT
TTC T-3650 with remote shifter
2005 V6
TTC T-5 5-speed with remote shifter

For comparison’s sake here’s how a few of the transmissions compare:
03-04 Cobra T56 gear ratios
T3650 gear ratios
2.66, 1.78, 1.30, 1.00, .8, .63
3.38, 2.00, 1.32, 1.00, .62

All of the above transmission pre-2005 had a direct mounted shifter. This means the shifter is mounted directly on top of the transmission. For 2005, Ford moved the shifter to obtain a more comfortable shifting position (and for packaging) so the shifter is now connected to the transmission via a link arm.To demonstrate how to change the fluid, we’ll be using our Project Hollow Point (link), a 2001 Bullitt with the T-3650 transmission. From the factory, these transmissions came with Mobil 1 factory fill, but since the cold shifting was so bad we decided to try something better.First we’ll talk about how to change the fluid in the transmission and a few details about that fairly simple swap then I’ll have some details about problems with the T-3650 transmission.To change the fluid, the first thing to do is gather a few basic tools you’ll need to complete the job. Here’s a list of what you’ll want to have:
1. 3/8” ratchet (I prefer to use a flex-head ratchet as it makes the angles a little easier to deal with)
2. 3/8” extension, 3” long
3. 4qts. Of new fluid
4. drain pan
5. Jack and jack stands
6. Hand pump

Hand Pump
For the fluid, I highly recommend Royal Purple Syncromax fluid for every transmission listed above.
With any of them, it will reduce friction and smooth the shifting noticeably. Our Bullitt has the T-3650 and shifting to 2nd below 40 degrees Fahrenheit was nearly impossible with the factory fill Mobil 1. Would the Royal Purple help? Let’s swap the fluid and see…
Once all of the materials are gathered, the next thing we did was jack up the front of the car to gain access to the transmission area. It helps here to place the jackstands at the back of the front subframe, or at the front of the subframe connector if so equipped (NOTE: factory subframe connectors are NOT acceptable jacking locations).Now if you look at the bottom of the transmission towards the front, you’ll see the drain plug. It has “DRAIN” stamped into the transmission next to it.
Position the drain pan under the plug, then remove the plug using the 3” extension on the 3/8” ratchet. Let the fluid drain completely.Clean off the plug
When the fluid is done draining, clean the area around the drain hole and reinstall the drain plug.Now look at the driver’s side of the transmission towards the rear about ¾ of the way up and you’ll see the fill plug.
Using the 3/8” ratchet again, remove the fill plug. Clean the fill plug and have it within easy reach to put it back in when needed. Assemble the hand pump and fish the output end into the fill hole. Slowly fill the transmission with the new fluid until it just begins to runs back out of the hole then reinstall the fill plug. Now you’re done.By switching to the Royal Purple fluid, our Project Bullitt gained the ability actually shift gears when the temperature outside is below 50 degrees. We’ve accomplished in 15 minutes what Ford couldn’t do in several trips back to the dealer under warranty.The following information is regarding the T-3650 transmission specifically, but the fluid swap procedure and general information applies to all years and transmissions. The demonstration swap was performed on our Project Hollow Point.In 2001 when Ford switched to the T-3650 transmission, it was a great change. The 3650 is very strong and can take some pretty serious abuse, well past the point of where the old T-45 would have failed. The downside on the swap was that the 3650 has a few problems of its own.
Most owners have at least one of the following problems:
  • Excessive transmission noise (whine)
  • 1st to 2nd gear clash (more noticeable when cold)
  • Drivetrain “clunking” (various times, normally when clutch pedal is pressed when car is not moving)
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Originally Posted by white_fang View Post
manual u would lose more power to the rear because the motor has to work it's power up, because you have to let off the gas, auto you just slam down and the power is the 24/7 fucker.
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 12:48 AM   #3
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that was pretty informative, thanks...
i wont be using a hand pump though, so can i still just put it through the shifter? And do i just use 3.2 Qts or use the full 4? It said to use Synchomax above, but I've read/heard to only use ATF and thats what it says in the owners manual... whats the Difference between Snychroman and ATF anyway?
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 12:53 AM   #4
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not quite sure really... I used the hand pump and it took me about 2 hours and I knew where everything was... It just took that long to pump all that shit. I boguht a really small pump by accident and had to take a few breaks because my fingers wouldnt bend anymore.

I boguht 4 quarts. I accidently spilled one over and i got pissed. turns out that all i needed was what was left. so even after nocking a bottle over i still had more than enough for the job.

how many miles are on your car and when was the last time its been changed? also are you experiencing rough shifts?
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Originally Posted by white_fang View Post
manual u would lose more power to the rear because the motor has to work it's power up, because you have to let off the gas, auto you just slam down and the power is the 24/7 fucker.
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 01:00 AM   #5
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it has 27,500 on it and prolly never been changed... it just feels a little sloppy and i figured its getting close to time to change it and plus im going to the track next weekend and wanted to make sure it had some good protection...
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 01:18 AM   #6
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im using royal purple synchromax in my tr3650 and its GREAT! really smooth shifts.
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 01:19 AM   #7
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yeah. mine had gone 51,000 miles and never been changed. when it came out it was blood red and just worn out.

d change it and use the RP and be done with it
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Originally Posted by white_fang View Post
manual u would lose more power to the rear because the motor has to work it's power up, because you have to let off the gas, auto you just slam down and the power is the 24/7 fucker.
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 01:21 AM   #8
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RP synchromax or RP ATF ????
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 01:25 AM   #9
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fuck.... thats your call man. i believe both will get the job done right pm kingchronic. he might have the best answer for you. he knows his shit
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Originally Posted by white_fang View Post
manual u would lose more power to the rear because the motor has to work it's power up, because you have to let off the gas, auto you just slam down and the power is the 24/7 fucker.
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 01:33 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by zinc02GT View Post
fuck.... thats your call man. i believe both will get the job done right pm kingchronic. he might have the best answer for you. he knows his shit
was that a "fuck" as in i dunno or "fuck" as in stop asking damn questions?
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 01:40 AM   #11
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oh no it wasnt a mean fuck by any means... it was like a mind boggling one.... i didnt mean anything rude by it and if it was offensive i apologize.

id ask KingChronic though. He has an 04 cobra. I know their different trannies, but he knows alot about his Cobras. Hed be your man to ask even thoguh we have the same trannies.
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Originally Posted by white_fang View Post
manual u would lose more power to the rear because the motor has to work it's power up, because you have to let off the gas, auto you just slam down and the power is the 24/7 fucker.
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 01:43 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by zinc02GT View Post
oh no it wasnt a mean fuck by any means... it was like a mind boggling one.... i didnt mean anything rude by it and if it was offensive i apologize.

id ask KingChronic though. He has an 04 cobra. I know their different trannies, but he knows alot about his Cobras. Hed be your man to ask even thoguh we have the same trannies.
thats straight, i figured thats what you meant... I'll PM him in a few.... thanks for the info...
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 01:47 AM   #13
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anytime dude. im thinking that the synchroamx is the one that hell say, but well just see
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Originally Posted by white_fang View Post
manual u would lose more power to the rear because the motor has to work it's power up, because you have to let off the gas, auto you just slam down and the power is the 24/7 fucker.
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 03:31 PM   #14
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maybe Im blind but what does the 2000 Mustang GT have? I dont see it up there. good write up im probably gonna change my trans oil next week.
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 03:47 PM   #15
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i went with mobil 1 atf with lucas additive. Shifting is impeccable and smooth!
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 04:09 PM   #16
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So is it ok to pour it in through the shifter??
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 04:31 PM   #17
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nvm I see it.

Whats the difference?

TTC 3650 5-speed
TTC T-3650 5-speed

Its good to know I have a good trans in my stang
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 07:28 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Hawaiianbro View Post
maybe Im blind but what does the 2000 Mustang GT have? I dont see it up there. good write up im probably gonna change my trans oil next week.
you hav a t 45
 
Old February 7th, 2008, 07:58 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by BlK2002GT View Post
So is it ok to pour it in through the shifter??

from what ive heard, yes it is. I didnt do it. KNowing me, i would have spilled the oil in my cars interior and ruined it.
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Originally Posted by white_fang View Post
manual u would lose more power to the rear because the motor has to work it's power up, because you have to let off the gas, auto you just slam down and the power is the 24/7 fucker.
 
Old February 8th, 2008, 01:24 AM   #20
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you can definetly pour it in through the shifter, thats the way i did it, and im goin with zinc02gt, both the atf and synchromax are great, but i would go with the synchromax since its the gl-5 you need with friction modifiers...
 
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