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Cam suggestions

1K views 28 replies 11 participants last post by  CJackson 
#1 ·
So I finally gave in to the pressure and ditched my v6 for a 2003 GT, and now that its tax time I've been looking into cams. I already have intake/longtubes/xpipe and a tune, but the cars at 150k and needs a timing chain and waterpump, so while I'm down there I was thinking of throwing a cam in it too. I've already checked American muscle, cjponyparts and lmr, and they all have the same cams for the same price, and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for cams other than comps cams.
 
#2 ·
It really depends on what your goals are for the car. Cams should be the last thing done to tie all your other mods together. So what are your plans? (Drag, street/strip, street, boost, na, high revver...)
 
#3 ·
My goals for now are a street/strip car, so a mild cam with a decent sounding idle and good midrange power boost. My budget isn't too high, and I would probably be paying for labor as well, so I was more looking for something relatively inexpensive.
 
#4 ·
Talk to Cushman Motorsports (CMS) or Modular Head Shop (MHS).

Both have a lot of experience in mod motor valve trains and can get you set up with the right parts for your goals.

Both use Bullet cams as their cam grinders, Bullet is a well respected cam grinder used by many top NHRA teams and is one of the best mod motor cam grinders.
 
#5 ·
Lots of guys including me are running cams spec'd by "NA SVT". He posts on this forum and many other forums. 90% of his posts are of the helping nature....not just trying to get your money!
Here is his facebook page.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/481330828691064/
 
#7 ·
I'm liking what I'm seeming on CMS, a stage 2 cam on some self ported heads and new springs and retainers would probably keep me in budget. But the chance of a vortech around this time next year makes me consider a stage 1 for now and a blower cam and better heads when I start buying all the other parts. Keeping my stock springs and retainers would be a huge money saver for me, and may free up some cash to use on some other parts (probably gears) in the near future.
 
#8 ·
If set on a blower get the CMS stage 1 blower cams. NA theyll give up a few hp, but will pick up nicely once the blower is on. We also get a forum discount i believe.
 
#9 ·
Should I get it Dyno'd after? Or is there someone I can get an email tune from for a stage 1 blower cam, I have free tunes for life from bama but Ive heard that the only cams they will tune for are the comps cams that they carry.

EDIT: I just realized that the CMS website has email tunes for a decent price for the SCT handheld I have, so now I just need to decide on the final set up and start ordering parts.
 
#10 ·
Is this car possibly gonna see boost later on? If so you will be giving up power if you go with a na cam. I did this same thing when I first decided to start modding. Luckily everyone on here pointed me in the right direction. That was 3 or 4 years ago.

Now here's my suggestion. With having to pay labor cams are going to get very expensive and quickly. Those cms stage 2s your looking at will require valve springs and I would suggest having them degreed. So right there your at almost a $1000.

- cams $600
-valve springs $250
- tfs adj crank gears $ 80
- labor $600+ (good possibility it will be more and very unlikely it'll be less)

Now with that being said your looking at $1500+ for the cam install and then your looking at $300+ for a tune which is on the lower end of cost. Realistically your looking at $500 but it does fluctuate with different areas. So in the end your looking at close to $2000. I would look into a used centri setup or piece one together. I spent under $2000 on ky first intercooled centri setup and gain double the power I would with cams. I would look into boost or possibly nitrous if you want to keep cost down. Centri is more fun imho and less hassle.
 
#11 ·
I know I will need the timing chain done because a piece of the plastic timing chain guide broke off and is ticking, that's why I was planning on doing the cam while I was in there. I wouldn't buy a used centri kit without getting the timing fixed first, and I'm not too sure about the condition of the bottom end either so boost isn't an option quite yet.
 
#13 ·
Gears were something else I was looking into, depending on the cost of everything else. I had 4.10s on an 8.8 on my v6, and could take them off and put them on my GT, but I always felt that the 4.10s were a bit too steep, I'm thinking 3.55 or 3.73 would be a little better for a daily. Does anyone have 4.10s and could convince me that it would be worth it?
 
#14 ·
I had 4.10s NA and with a supercharger. Daily drove the car for 7 years with that gear. I never had any issues but yes 1st will just spin. If you plan on cams and the blower then do 3.73. The gain between 3.73 and 4.10 is minimal. I went back to 3.27 with the supercharger and it felt a tad slower the first couple seconds but you really got planted in the seat as the boost kicked in. With the 4.10 it would just blow the tires loose.
 
#15 ·
My cams and Y2ko2 have cams very different then what everyone else turbo wise is using and they are making power.... NA SVT on this forum is very smart when it come to valve train geometry.
 
#17 ·
I think some 3.73s would work well NA for now, and work with a centrifugal later on, so that's probably what I'll do.

Another thing I was considering was UDPs, but I guess that would be counter-productive if I do go with a centri style later on. So I'm torn between getting a set just to enjoy NA then throw the stocks back on, or just waiting and getting some over drive pullies down the line
 
#18 ·
I think some 3.73s would work well NA for now, and work with a centrifugal later on, so that's probably what I'll do.

Another thing I was considering was UDPs, but I guess that would be counter-productive if I do go with a centri style later on. So I'm torn between getting a set just to enjoy NA then throw the stocks back on, or just waiting and getting some over drive pullies down the line
 
#19 ·
The 4-5hp isnt worth your money or time. Put it towards the gears or blower.
 
#21 ·
Yeah I'll probably just wait to do the pullies until I'm ready for the sc. As far as the tune goes, who's a reputable datalogger? or can I trust an email tune from CMS
 
#22 ·
I do believe your a little confused here. Under drive pulleys with a blower will actually have a reverse effect on what your thinking. With a smaller crank pull you will actually be spinning the blower slower and possibly experiancing charging issues with your alternator. You do not want under drive pulleys with a blower.
 
#25 ·
My personal favorite street car cams are CMS Stage 1s and Comp XE262AH. Both are GREAT cams. The CMS cams will make a little more peak power. The comps will work well N/A and they also work well on the bottle and with a blower.

If you want something more aggressive the CMS Stage 2 N/A cams are probably one of the most famous N/A cams ever used in a mod motor. Years ago CMS cams where known as VT cams. Alot of the cam grinds are the same because the same guy spec'd VT cams used the same specs when he opened his own company. They work really well.

My preference for a daily driver is the CMS 1's. They sound great and make great power. You wont regret it one bit.... and Jim will probably be your cheapest route for new cams. Much cheaper than comp.
 
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#27 ·
I switched from Comp XE262AH to HPS292 cams and went from 440whp to 503whp (peak). The 262's had a little better bite at lower rpms than the 292's. Different power levels at different rpm's but overall I'm pleased. I did like the growl of the 262's over the 292's but still sounds great, still enough lope for me.








CTSV at the end :shiftyeyes

 
#28 ·
Who wants to experiment with a Set of CMS stage 2 NA cams? I would just about bet they would perform in the neighborhood as a turbo cam power wise.... If i find a cheap set i may swap them to experiment.
 
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