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Another turbo 2v build

17K views 331 replies 28 participants last post by  CJackson 
#1 ·
Alright guys its time for another turbo build. This thread will be used for any questions I may have along the way, also for anyone who may be considering this route. My plan is to eventually upgrade to a 6768 precision's. As of right now i'm going to run the on3 70mm turbo. Here is the parts list of the build

- On3 70mm turbo
- On3 IC and coldside
- On3 hotside and merge pipe
- Turbo smart 40mm wastegae (suggestions welcome)
- Turbo smart boost controller
- Tial 50m bov ( reused from blower)
- hpx 75mm maf with vmp housing (reused from blower)
- Eddy intake with adapter plate for bbk 78mm tb
- stock longblock

Fuel:

- On3 triple pump hat
- dual 340s for e85
- 8an feed and return
- Eddy rails
- Fore regulator

I do have a few questions to start with. As far as springs for the wastegate, would it really matter as to what spring I choose since i'm running a boost controller? I plan to go ahead and get a spring for 11-12psi. Also this will be on the stock longblock. I plan to use gaskets on the merge pipes and copper rtv if necessary. Blower is sold as of today, once the buyer receives the kit and is happy with the transaction the build will begin.
 
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#4 ·
Yep I fell for it also. Hopefully this doesn't bit me in the ass. I think i'm making the right decision for future goals. Maybe I should of stuck with the blower but I knew it was inevitable I would go turbo. It was a hard decision with blower cms 2.5 blower cams sitting on the table to look at everyday.
 
#3 ·
Two thoughts.
1. In regards to wastegate spring, how many psi do you plan on running ?
You're typically better off running a smaller spring and turning the boost controller up than just running the spring for the psi you want.
You can also only turn the boost controller so far over the spring. Most people say 2x the wastegate spring at most.

2. Do the on3 kits use v bands on the merge pipes ?
I run no gaskets with the v bands and have no issues
 
#6 ·
I plan to run 11-12 psi. I wasn't sure as to what spring would be correct while using a boost controller. Thanks for clearing that up. Now for the merge pipe I was just assuming it would use a v band to connect to the headers. Maybe i'm just using the wrong name for it :lol. I just assumed that it was referred to as the merge pipe.

---------- Post added at 10:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:45 PM ----------

If you use a 12psi spring that will be the least about of boost you'll
be able to run. At 12psi on a stock block it will break it!
Yea i'm well aware of this :lol. I plan on tuning it with 10psi and running 11-12 at the track only. This motor will be built and ready in time for when the sbe goes.
 
#11 ·
Dont use gaskets, use Copper RTV. As far as your waste gate spring use the least amount of boost you will want to run then subtract 2PSI nd there is your spring. I never run on spring because you lose the ability to set your crack pressure and all your settings on spring so im usually at 18PSI. for me its 16PSI spring so with the BC gauge i can double that up to 32 PSI if need be.
 
#12 ·
Looks like i'll be going with a 8psi spring and go from there. Like I said i plan on dialing in the tune for 10psi and see what the car does. If it runs similar times to my d1 with 12psi i'll be happy. If not ill go ahead and bump it up a 1psi. I honestly don't expect the car to be as fast with the 70mm on3 turbo but with the 67 it should be a different animal.
 
#15 ·
Fwiw, I run a 7 psi spring in a tial 38mm gate. I have it turned up to 10-11 psi with that spring.

You're correct in calling it a merge pipe, btw. Lol.
I'm just saying I don't run anything in between the v bands as far as gasket wise. They don't seem to leak.
But my kit is custom and probably fits a bit better than on3
 
#18 ·
Your giving advice on a kit you have no experience with. There is a whole thread on corral about on3 leaks having to use gaskets to seal them. I would bet Your custom kit probably has a lot tighter fitting vbands on3 kits
 
#19 ·
I do not use gaskets and I do not use the RTV silicone sealant for sealing. I use the Copper RTV for one reason only and that is lubrication between the two metal surfaces when tighteneing down the flanges. When you put that in between the flanges it removes the friction between the two metal surfaces which would other wise bind a little during the tighteneing process and it allows them to slide into place prefectly creating a perfect seal. I used to use anti seaze which works great as well allowing the flanges to slide into place perfectly.

---------- Post added at 10:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:14 AM ----------

Guys there is a process in which you have to go through in order to get these things to seal. There are two sides to the hot side one has a flex pipe and the other does not......

It is imparitive that you buckle down the side that DOES NOT have flex pipes FIRST other wise it will never get metal to metal contact between the surfaces on that side.. Once you get the rigid side sealed up you can then move onto the flex pipe side. This is where the RTV or Antiseaze come in handy in bewtween the flanges becaus ewhen you tighten up the flange that has the flex pipe on it the lurication will allow the 2 metal surfaces to come together and slide into place while at the same time allowing the flex pipe to bend where it needs to go..

I fixed and ON3 kit by using this exact same method for a local guy who was about to throw in the towel. I did not use gaskets because it was not required if you put it togehter in a very specific order and use the lubrication.
 
#25 ·
"I'd like to have it instead. Let me run some numbers and see what I can come up with. I'll call my local chassis shop and see what he would charge to fab the crossover. I would do it but I don't have the right tools for the job.

That's really pushing it man, I'll stay where I'm at as far as timing and afr is concerned. I'm going to be very conservative on the tune."

Sure, I'll shoot you a PM.

Oh it's absolutely pushing it. I am very aware it can/will bust. But I have two teksid blocks I can build cheaply if that does happen. We shall see. I'm keeping a conservative tune as well. Making the power with boost not timing.
 
#27 ·
No they wont sell it seperately. Fabbing up a cold side takes time but it is well worth the effort in the end. I am one who likes to FAB. I also like welding as much pipe as possible. Ive bought a couple new welders this month and getting ready to order one for aluminum too.
 
#42 ·
My 6768 .96ar t4 H cover spools quick and pulls to redline. It's been a great snail. Going Borg Warner for the next one.

I have a Miller 210 with an aluminum gun as well. I'm too picky to weld it myself. I like a nice tig weld.
 
#48 ·
awesome! will be keeping an eye on this for sure. my on3 hotside fit like crap, but im still using their coldside.
 
#49 ·
I guess I'm just gonna run on3 kit. Don't have the cash to go with the CG kit right now. If we weren't in the process of buying a house I would have at it. I'll so a little fab work to the on3 kit if it needs a little more clearance. Where exactly did you have fitment issues again?

---------- Post added at 11:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:51 PM ----------

PTE is a nice turbo for sure. Talk to Forced Induction about a billet Borg. José might be his name?
I'll give them a call and see what they can spec me out. I'd I'm not concerned about power. I want a turbo that's gonna take into the 9s and have a good power curve.
 
#50 ·
Unfortunately it's not a one turbo fits all game. Get something good for the now and go bigger later on. My 67mm at 14psi still isn't efficiency range. At most just starting to get in that range.
 
#52 ·
Oh yea for sure man. I'm just talking about pointing me in the right direction for my future goals. I could care less if the car doesn't perform as well as the d1 setup did, although I think track times will be very similar.

---------- Post added at 12:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:07 AM ----------

Ive been looking for over an hour to purchase this thing and everywhere i try to check out says OUT OF STOCK until March..........
Damn that sucks. I was thinking a but sweet talking the wife to let my buy one. I'll see if I can find one in stock somehow.
 
#51 ·
the hot pipe coming off the passenger side header was touching the A-arm and none of the header bolt holes lined up. they seem to be hit or miss though. my buddy has one of their kits and his fits great
 
#54 ·
If need be I'll weld the holes up and drill them back out. I'm sure it's nothing a die grinder can't hand though. Hopefully that is.

---------- Post added at 12:16 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:11 AM ----------

You a full weight car? Meaning you still have...

Ac
Power steering and brakes
Abs
Rear seat
Rear speaker deck
Spare tire and jack
Bumpers
Power driver seat
Stock hood
Stock driveshaft
Ect
I usually gut the truck and rear seat when I head to the track. Sometimes it's just the trunk. Fastest pass was at full weight (11.28). Minus the spare tire and what all my tubular k and a arms shed. Came from the factory without abs. corbeau fx1's and a cervini hood. Still have the rear bumper support but front is gone.
 
#55 ·
Not a bad start. A 7175 CEA will get you into the 9's and do well on a stock engine. Could start with a .81 turbine housing and step up to a .96ar later on.
 
#59 ·
You will only build boost with a 2 step if your stall speed is high enough on the foot brake to allow you to build boost before you break loose. Example if your foot brake is breaking loose at 2200RPM and your not building boost at that point then the 2 step wont do anything for you. foot breaking should be around at least 3K in order to build enough boost to even make a difference. this is why Lockup comes in so handy you can run a 4K-4500K Stall speed and still keep drivability on the street by locking the converter to compensate for the higher stall. This is something i have avoided for a long time on my car but have since gave in to fix the issue.
 
#61 ·
I thought you were looking into an automatic for some reason.
 
#67 ·
It may not be the best price as think they are all about the same price, but Chris at power adder solutions is best place to buy it from. He will take care of any issues and and can get you prices on if you want to delete stuff like wastegate or BOV
 
#69 ·
No problem here is price list of on3 twin turbo kit he sent me when I was thinking of going that way. Just incase your interested



Stage 1: $1,699
Stage 2: $2,995
Stage 2r: $3,684
Stage 3: $3,164
Stage 3r: $3,715


Stage 1 will include: The complete hotside including forward facing header and hotside to the turbos. Downpipes from turbo to catback as well as dump tubes. The complete cold side which is 3” aluminum tubing and custom air to air On3 TT intercooler. The mounting brackets will also be included with the stage 1 kit

Stage 2 will include: Everything from 1 as well as the On 3 Journal bearing GT30 turbos, On 3 44mm wastegates, On 3 50mm blow off valves, complete oil feed / drain kit, and On 3 Performance Oil scavenge pump. We also will include a hardware kit that will have nuts/bolts for the turbos. Lastly a pdf with photos to assist the customer with the complete install

Stage 2r: This will upgrade the customer from the On 3 GT30 journal turbos in the kit to the On 3 Dual Ceramic Ball Bearing GT30’s

Stage 3: This will upgrade the customer from the On 3 GT30 journal turbos in the kit to the On 3 GT35’s

Stage 3r: This will upgrade the customer from the On 3 GT30 journal turbos in the kit to the On 3 Dual Ceramic Ball Bearing GT35’s

Fender Exit downpipe kit upgrade is $30 and deletes the exhaust from turbo back. If you want to keep the turbo back and get the FDE downpipes, you will also need our other exhaust housings they require. So the complete upgrade cost would be $299
 
#81 ·
Talked to power adder solutions today. They have the best price I can find so far. Minus the wastegate and bov saved me a whole $90 :lol. So that'll put the total right at $2000. Estimated delivery for the d1 is Wednesday so once everything's good with that I'll be placing the order. For the on3 kit and a 40 mm wastegate.
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai...racing.com/parts/tbs-ts-0505-1006?seid=srese1

---------- Post added at 11:25 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:24 AM ----------

Also any good recommendation on a oil filter relocation kit?
 
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