Seems like fittings are always leaking. Or too tight and crushing jets. Went to the track again last night and it didn't work. Had so many problems with this kit. If I did it again I'd buy a new kit I'm sure that'd be 100x easier. Maybe it's time for a blower
Eh, we're modding our cars, **** not working 100% perfectly every time seems like it is just part of the lifestyle. That said, a blower sounds like fun...
My kit works flawlessly. I just need to learn to not get greedy.
The Zex kit is the easiest install out of all of them.
The fittings are flared so they do not need to be tightened down like a head bolt. Mine has never leaked fuel or nitrous. It hits every time I press the go pedal.
Double check that your lines are hooked up to the proper conenctinos on the nozzle (I assuem they are but you never know). I would also double check that the jets are in the correct locations as well.
Does it mis-fire when you are spraying? The very first time I sprayed at the track I was so nervous/excited I forgot to open the damn bottle. It was only spraying fuel and it was missing like crazy.
Do you have a bottle heater? Pressure guage? What is the pressure when you open the bottle?
Where are you pulling your fuel from? Shrader valve or a fuel rail adapter?
Something is off for sure...I'm not asking these questions to be condescending.
I have a heater pressure is usually 900-1000. It doesn't misfire. I'm going to pull the lines off of the nozzle tonight and see if I'm getting any nitrous. I'm pulling fuel from the shrader
Vortech or procharger. Not sure if it's in the budget right now though I'd have to sell a few things to pay for it. Hopefully I can get the nitrous fixed to get me by for a while
I took both lines off at the nozzle and set my window switch to 1.5v and 0 rpm so I could control it while watching the lines. Fuel came out good but no nitrous. Found a broken jet I must have over tightened it. The solenoid works great so a new jet and I should be good to go.
Glad you found the culprit dude. If you want, for peace of mind, get some pipe sealant and put that on the fittings. I did that on the solenoid inputs. The lines running to the nozzle I just tighten enough to know they are good and moved on.
Let us know how it goes when you get it fixed and tested.
I replaced the jet and now have nitrous out of the line. I reattached it to the nozzle and went out to test it. Still doesn't feel like it's hitting but it was on the street so lots of spinning so hard to say for sure. I pulled off the intake tube to make sure it was exiting the nozzle. I could hear and feel nitrous coming out but couldn't see it. Is that normal? Just wasn't sure since you can see the purge but obviously that's a lot more nitrous than the 100 shot. It also didn't get really cold till after I did it a few times. Is that normal? At first it just felt like warm air.
I wonder if the line wasn't purged fully when you tested it. It should be cold.
The Zex 100 shot, to me, was underwhelming as well which is why I went to the 125 jets. I feel like the 125 hits significantly harder than the 100 for some reason.
The 150 was unreal (I won't be spraying those jets anymore). I plan on running the 125s when I get my car back together and dyno tuned for the cams.
Yeah I was wondering if it was warm because I didn't purge it it just took a lot longer than I expected to clear the lines. But I guess that is a lot of air to push through a tiny little jet. I need to run it at the Track one more time and if it is in fact heading I'm going to move to a 125. Id also like to switch to a plate instead of the nozzle
I also noticed that during wide-open throttle with the nitrous my air fuel ratio goes to 11.5 and when I go wot while NA it only drops to 12.5. That seems odd to me I figured it'd be leaner on the nitrous. Maybe my jets are rich
I mean there's hardly any way you'll ever have them exactly the same, but you don't look for one ratio on motor and a different one on the bottle. The engine likes what it likes and it doesn't care if you're spraying or not.
You will want a richer nitrous AFR it's the same as any power adder. No one is going to run 12.5-13.0 AFR on a blower...nitrous increases the cylinder pressure (just like any power adder) creating more room for detonation...to cure that you run a richer mixture and/or back the timing off.
I do not want to see a 12.5 AFR when spraying on my car.
You can run it leaner but it leaves less margin of error for detonation...especially on stock Pistons and rods.
Rich and nitrous is bad, contrary to what used to be popular belief. That's an old school thought. Detonation is controlled with timing, and not A/F.
And nitrous is not the same as other power adders, because it's not forced induction. Increasing manifold pressure has a different effect than not, and you should run a nitrous engine like an N/A engine because of it.
When you heat nitrous, it separates the molecules and simply supplies more oxygen to burn, which in turn requires more fuel to burn efficiently. More fuel = more power, and the added oxygen keeps the ratio where the engine likes it. The engine doesn't know, or care, where that oxygen comes from. It just wants the same ratio that it likes to run under any other circumstance.
I'm going to stick with the fastest nitrous guys in the world, in Monte Smith (which I have attended his clinics multiple times), and Steve Johnson from Induction Solutions,
In which I have his nitrous kits in my car and the race car I work on. They're pretty clear in that you can't hurt a nitrous car being lean. If it gets hurt, it has too much timing. If you pull fuel from a fire, it goes out.....
Tuning off of AFR for nitrous isn't a good way to do it anyways. Always read the plugs and give the engine what it wants. It may "work" for 100 shots, but it's not the way I'd ever tune my nitrous.
I see what your saying I just wanted to make sure it wasn't abnormal. I understand it may not be the best way but wanted to make sure it was ok
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