So I figured I would join the party with all the turbo builds going on. The car has been down since September of 2014. Im getting ready to start the installing everything to get it back on the road again. Here is a list of what's going on.
Engine ( built and on stand)
fully forged shortblock
mhs stage 3 heads
cms stage 2.5 turbo cams
Edelbrock intake
6061 intake
Turbo kit (just haven't picked turbo out yet)
CG T6 turbo hotside
on3 cold side
turbo charger leaning towards work turbo chargers turbo
dual 40 mm wastegates
Transmission (ordered should be here in 2wks)
FB performance 4r70w with lockup and transbrake
UCC converter
I wasn't going to do the transmission until this winter but FB was having a sale . There is a few other things going into build like abs delete and batery relocation. Like to hear thoughts and opinions of the building. It's supposed to be done by end of May just got to get my buddy motivated to finish it.
Thought I would add some pictures of the old turbo set up and the carnage of the stock block
This is what happens when you ask your buddy to fuel the car on the trailer while you go take a piss and he puts 87 instead of 93 in the tank. Then takes 16 months to fess up.
Few pieces in oil pan
I am really at my buddies mercy. He has my car pulled apart to were I cant move it to another shop. I literary have over 15k in parts waiting to be installed. Its not all his fault as I have to take some of the blame.
Freddy Brown has a strange way of shipping transmissions.
Are you asking about the evap system ? I haven't pulled it yet but I talked to Glenn yesterday and he told me to use heat gun and lots of WD 40 on it.
he told me one of the pieces is no longer produced and I need to be very careful removing it.
You have a Glenn's performance tank? Did you try any of the was Glenn recommends removing them. Just trying to find out if they work or if I'm going to be cussing.
---------- Post added at 08:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:14 PM ----------
Tackled the evap system today and it wasn't as bad as I was expecting. Took about 30 min to remove both canister. There is definitely a trick to doing it. First thing is not to try this by yourself or you will break it. It took equal pressure from both sides to get it to raise up high enough until you hit the lip on the canister. When it hit the lip we couldn't get it past it and you are limited to the amount prying up you can do without breaking it. This is were the heat gun and WD40 comes in applied wd40 around the canister and rubber gasket and a little heat to the metal around canister and then applied a little pressure and it popped right out.
Here is new tank with rubber gaskets in.
Here is evap system in the tank
Well got a little more done. Got the transmission out and mounted the pumps on the tank cover.
Next on the list is the install of the the tank , fuel lines and battery relocation. I want to run track legal relocation but I'm looking for ideas of how to run the disconnect out the back of the car. I have seen a few come out though the tail light but don't want to do it that way. If anybody has any suggestions that would be appreciated.
Man thats coming along very nice, as far as the relocation and the disconnect switch, I've always liked my buddys idea. He used a oldsmobile flip down license plate, drilled a hole behind it to mount the switch. So all he had to do was flip down the plate at the track when needed it and flip it back up out on the street no one ever new it was back there.
what fuel pumps are you using? i currently have a single magnafuel 750 external pump and its loud as hell. im thinking of doing something like what you did
They are walbro 392's. The setup is really overkill but I got a great deal on it. I don't know if you seen I had a better luck removing the evap canister from the tank then most do.
Not much to update decided to put installing fuel system install off to install a 8pt rollbar. Ordered Rhodes race cars 8 point cage. Should be ready to test fit it shortly .
Starting to pull the interior but it's been so dam hot hard to work on it for long periods of time.
Just have carpet to pull and a few plastic to remove
---------- Post added at 07:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:23 PM ----------
I will be installing subframe connectors a the same time. We only have a 2 post lift so we are thinking installing the roll bar with all 4 wheels on the ground first. Then installing the subframes on the lift. We are hoping this will limit the body flexing on the lift. Will this work.
So I had to put this project on hold for a little bit due to spinning a bearing in my 87 T Type. I have finished that project so it's time to get back on this again. I moved the car to another shop to get this thing going.
They are going to weld cage in subframe connectors battery relocation and do fuel system. They got right to welding the cage in
Finished battery relocation had to redo it because first way we wired it up it just killed the ground instead of the power.
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