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Tubular K Member question

5K views 9 replies 9 participants last post by  akurma 
#1 ·
As some of you that follow my build thread know i am swapping in a built motor for my P1SC build. I have always wanted to do a tubular K-member in my car since i bought it, not just because of the weight savings but primarily the extra space it gives around the motor under neither. Anyway considering it is black Friday/cyber Monday weekend and damn near everything is on sale i figured now would probably be the best time to get a good deal on a K-Member. I am debating what brand i should get, UPR Mild steel OR Team Z metal matrix X (again mild steel) the difference in price really isn't that much, with the Team Z being a few dollars more so that isn't a big deal. my concern is which is better for a street car that may see the strip a few times a year but may also see an Auto-X course as well. My Second question is spring rates, i am completely confused as to what the differences are between them so if someone has a link that explains that or can suggest a spring rate that would be great.

Anyone who has either of these K-Members let me hear your feedback!
 
#2 ·
Here is a thread I started a while back when I was looking for a K-member.

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/99-04/561025-k-member-decision-worth.html

End result 12-250 spring rate, and a full UPR front end to match my UPR rear end.

Haven't installed anything yet, since I'm never at my parents house, and the car is kept there. But the parts all look really nice quality, and UPR stands behind their stuff.

My recommendation would be a UPR kit with 12-250 rate.
 
#3 ·
I have no direct experience with either of those K-members, but based on popular opinion, Team Z is the better choice. UPR has taken a beating on forums for copying other companies' designs, producing poorly made products, and then when they get called out on it they bad mouth and belittle their competitors. Personally, I find their billet interior pieces to be nice quality, but I would be very hesitant to use their suspension components. I concede that I might be embellishing a bit. There are a lot of cars out there with UPR products pulling low 60' on the strip, putting down fast times in auto-x and on the track, and seeing street use with no issues. However, from what I have seen and read, and based on principle and customer service alone, I would not go with UPR.

Now with that mess out of the way, if you desire the best for a street driven car, Maximum Motorsports k-members are the ticket. I have numerous MM components on my car, and all of it is top notch in quality and fitment. Their customer service and technical support is excellent, as well. I won't lie and tell you their stuff is cheap, because it's not. Beyond the k-member, you would need solid rack bushings, tubular A-arms, coilovers, swaybar relocation kit, and CC plates. You get what you pay for, though, and having peace of mind knowing your car has top-of-the-line components is priceless. MM k-members also happen to be on sale this weekend. See here.

To wrap it up, I would stay away from UPR. Team Z seems to have quality products, good customer service, and low prices. I think all of their products are made at their Michigan facility, but I might be wrong. I vote to either go with Team Z or MM. Finding a used MM k-member might be the best option of all.
 
#4 ·
I have the upr mild steel k member, and A arms running MM 250 coilovers on Koni single adjustables. I love it, not a bad k member. Before I ran it with the stock A arms and the UPR spring perches a d H&R SS springs woth the konis.. decent product for the money
 
#5 ·
I have no issues with my upr kit.
I will say some people question running a upr k member in a more handling oriented car.
I have autocrossed mine with no issue.
If you can swing it though, get the mm one. It is much more expensive than the upr unfortunately.
I didn't have the money at the time. And I'm not sure if my turbo kit would fit with the mm k member
 
#6 ·
I'd vote for Team Z or PA Racing. I've got a UPR one and while I don't hate it, the Team Z and PA Racing ones I've seen hanging on the wall at the local speedshop are much nicer pieces. UPR products do the job, but are usually a little lacking in the quality/service department. Wasn't thrilled with their customer service. I agree about the interior pieces, their Rockcrusher handle wasn't bad (hard to screw up a lever), but the overall front end kit wasn't something I'd sing the praises of.
 
#8 ·
I dropped some coin on the MM K member this weekend since it was discounted for their weekend deals right now. I have never really considered any other K member, so it's not like I've shopped around or researched in depth. What I do know, is that I've never heard anyone complain about the MM k-member except for the price. I've heard plenty of complaints about other brands. For daily street driven reliability plus badass handling and track performance, MM can hardly be beat. I've got the forward offset A-arms and delrin bushings to go with it.
 
#9 ·
I went with the full UPR front end kit (k member, a arms, coilovers, and bumpsteer kit). There were a few minor issues to deal with during the install but I don't have any complaints or regrets. I do only have a few hundred miles since the install though, so there hasn't been much time for problems to manifest. Money not being an issue though, I'd go with MM. The things I have gotten from them are top notch. I think my whole front end kit costs what the MM k member costs.
 
#10 ·
Okay so after all the feedback i got from you guys, my own research on the web and people i know i decided to go with the UPR Mild Steel K-Member with 12-250 springs. While i would have loved to get the MM K-member it is simply out of my budget. I ordered it Sunday night from UPR and got it this afternoon, much faster then i expected! Now it will be a little while before i actually go to installing it but i will be updating this thread when i go to install it. Now onto the K-member itself, everything came very neatly packaged, nothing is scratched ext... my only concern is that on the A-Arms is the boot for the ball joints have come off?? they don't look torn just look like they popped off? The last picture shows what i am talking about.











 
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