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01 gt tranny swap auto to standard

1K views 14 replies 4 participants last post by  01GTsmackntickle 
#1 ·
Today i am tackling the pedal assembly and clutch cable through firewall...I took the seat out so fat little man can try and get comfy under there.. not sure if the steering wheel will have to come out just about to go outside and check...Wish me luck and keep checking back i might have questions or be in need of rescue lmao:grin2:

---------- Post added at 06:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:43 PM ----------

I have to disconnect battery before dropping steering wheel and removing correct? i need the space under there and 10 extra minutes of work will save me hours

---------- Post added at 07:15 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:29 PM ----------

updated steering wheel is out..Air bag intact check lol... maybe now my sexy roundness can fit lmao
 
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#2 ·
Why did you have to pull the steering wheel? Im a pretty big guy and i have never done that. Hell, half the time I weasel myself in with the seat still there. It's pretty easy to bolt the new assembly up. You'll have to punch a hole through the firewall but that can be done from the bay if you figure out where it needs to go
 
#7 ·
No reason to go manual if you want to go fast. :woot:wave

So far i had a hole there just pulled the rubber grommet and installed the adjuster... i was having a crazy time trying to get to those bolts...i am about to start reasembling the car now.. then all i will have too do is get the trannys swapped out and a tune right?
You don't "need" a tune but your speedo will be off. All you need is the OSS changed
 
#8 ·
you know ford was even kind enough to place the clutch harness connecter that plugs in right behind the peddle assembly... i could see it clear as day.. but the only way you could use it was to remove the assembly cause they folded it behind the brackett.. i had two things to plug in that connector and remove the jumper so i could plug in the other part of the clutch sensor..so two connectors to plug in are really the only thing that needed to be done down there..i hope lol
 
#12 ·
Ok so starter plate just arrived
Flywheel
Clutch
pressure plate bolts
waiting on one single flywheel bolt. that somehow was not in the package..
rubber boot and bezel for the tunnel..
i cleaned tranny up alittle installed new fork new throw out bearing
thread locker
last night ordered new alum driveshaft
Pedals have been installed on dec 2 an 3rd.. just waiting game to get everything i need at this point
what is the wire/cable that attaches to the steering column it then runs like a U into the dash area.. is that the key lock or something from the shifter? can i remove it??
 
#13 ·
oK TRANNYN IS OUT THE CAR.. I TOOK THE TR3650 HARNESS AND IT PLUGS RIGHT IN...my only concern might be i might need to add lenght to the rear 02 sensors..i had to send back the flywheel after i got the tranny out i notice i had a six bolt not a 8 bolt.. but in the mean time i am looking for a ford baffle for the rear main seal.. that is the piece of circle metal that sits behind the seal on the crank... the garage has been freezing working slow an safe as possible on stands and ramps... i hardly had enough room to pull the tranny from the bottom of the car
 
#15 ·
Thank you odessa, what a wonderful suggestion.. i just didnt want to come across as a authority that actually knew what he was doing lmao... i attempted this after reading many threads on here..So far everything has been covered on the forums.. but here is alittle information that i found out, once i got down to it, that i have not read about or simple missed... when doing a swap its also a good time to replace that rear main seal.. it would be heartbreaking if it failed after your hardwork...So you I found out a rear main seal is not the only part you will need in some stangs... you will also need to order a new baffle/oil slinger some old generations call them many things...its a ring of metal that face closest to the transmission that works in tandum with the rear main seal..see attached picture.. my finger is point at the actual seal but look closer you can see a metal ring also on the crank
 

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