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post #1 of 31 Old January 7th, 2017, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
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No start on new engine....HELP

Tried to start my new engine but im getting a code p1233 which is the fpdm, but my pumps are working. Car cranks but wont fire. Any ideas?
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post #2 of 31 Old January 8th, 2017, 02:12 PM
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Have you confirmed pressure at the rail? It sounds like the diagnostic looks for pressure at the rail, and loose connections or a bad sensor could trip it even if the FPDM/pumps are working.

Beyond that I would check all the power/grounds for the fuel system, including the CCRM. Have you done anything to modify the stock system?
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post #3 of 31 Old January 8th, 2017, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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I had fuel at the fuel rail not sure about how much pressure because their aftermarket rails and doesn't have a petcock on them. The fuel system is dual GT pumps in a fore hat with dual FPDMs. I think it has fuel though because I tried spraying starter fluid in the intake and it still didn't want to start. I had a remote tune done. Maybe tune I'm guessing but Im at a lose...
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post #4 of 31 Old January 8th, 2017, 05:15 PM
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The fuel related codes on these cars are a bit screwy. I had a code that is supposed to be for the FRPS when my pump was actually bad. Also had the same FRPS code when my gas cap was the issue(the breather was clogged).

I would start by verifying the voltage to the pumps/fpdms. If you have a way to monitor duty cycle/pressure via OBDII (such as an SCT X4 or aeroforce gauges then use that as well). Prime the pumps, can you hear them? Check the fuel filter as well. If everything in back works as it should, next step would be to put a gauge on the fuel rails and verify pressure there.

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post #5 of 31 Old January 8th, 2017, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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I tested the volts at the pumps its just under 12v when the key is turn to the on position. I found a fuel pressure gauge and if i turn the key back and forth to prime it the pressure will go up to 30 or 40 psi, but as soon as I try to start it the pressure falls flat...Is this normal?
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post #6 of 31 Old January 8th, 2017, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01Bullitt82 View Post
I had fuel at the fuel rail not sure about how much pressure because their aftermarket rails and doesn't have a petcock on them. The fuel system is dual GT pumps in a fore hat with dual FPDMs. I think it has fuel though because I tried spraying starter fluid in the intake and it still didn't want to start. I had a remote tune done. Maybe tune I'm guessing but Im at a lose...
If you've got dual FPDMs I would go through your wiring very closely. You can have issues if a connection is a little loose.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 01Bullitt82 View Post
I tested the volts at the pumps its just under 12v when the key is turn to the on position. I found a fuel pressure gauge and if i turn the key back and forth to prime it the pressure will go up to 30 or 40 psi, but as soon as I try to start it the pressure falls flat...Is this normal?
Keep in mind it controls the pumps by having 12V at all times and grounding it to work.

The prime cycle is normal. That's a bit odd about the pressure falling flat. I don't think that's right. Do you have a PPRV? Even on mine with PPRV delete I watch it spike up to ~40psi on prime, decay as it drains back (no PPRV), and within a half second of cranking it surges back to 40psi. If you're not getting a return to pressure during cranking that points at the control system, i.e. FPDM or ECU.

How did you wire your dual FPDM harness? Mine is a stand alone plug and play harness I made so that I can disconnect it and try it with the stock wiring. If that's an option I would give it a go. That would tell you if it's your wiring or FPDM.
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post #7 of 31 Old January 8th, 2017, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedSnake00 View Post
How did you wire your dual FPDM harness? Mine is a stand alone plug and play harness I made so that I can disconnect it and try it with the stock wiring. If that's an option I would give it a go. That would tell you if it's your wiring or FPDM.
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post #8 of 31 Old January 9th, 2017, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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I bought a wiring harness off a guy on SVTperformance.com that was pretty much plug and play. I just had to run a power wire from the relay to the battery and the power and ground to each pump. Is it possible that its in the tune? I'm defiantly not getting a spike in fuel pressure when trying to start it, but my pumps are kicking on and pumping gas. The power wire to the pumps is ready 11.7 or so. Should I see what the voltage on the power wire does through cranking?
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post #9 of 31 Old January 9th, 2017, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01Bullitt82 View Post
I bought a wiring harness off a guy on SVTperformance.com that was pretty much plug and play. I just had to run a power wire from the relay to the battery and the power and ground to each pump. Is it possible that its in the tune? I'm defiantly not getting a spike in fuel pressure when trying to start it, but my pumps are kicking on and pumping gas. The power wire to the pumps is ready 11.7 or so. Should I see what the voltage on the power wire does through cranking?
I would look closely at the dual FPDM wiring diagrams and your wiring. (Maybe one pump is wired backwards?) The power wire to the pump should read +12V at key on and crank. The FPDM commands the pump on by closing the other side of the pump to ground.

I would give it a shot without the jumper harness installed to see if there's any change.

Just to clarify; can you describe how pressure is reacting during the key on and crank states, and if/when you hear the pumps running? Also do you still have the PPRV, or has it been deleted? If you still have the PPRV it should go to ~40psi and stay there from prime to cranking. If you don't, it will behave like I said earlier, prime to 40, decay, and return to 40 once you start cranking.

What else has been changed since the last setup? Is it tuned for dual GT pumps? Although I would note it should still run even if it isn't. At least mine did.
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post #10 of 31 Old January 9th, 2017, 10:14 AM Thread Starter
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Ok I will check the wiring when I get off work. No PPRV. It will only go to about 10 psi on one key turn I have to turn in on and off about three times for it to build up to 40 then it immediately bleeds out. It does not go up on crank.

What do you mean by without the jumper harness? Just hook it up like stock with 1 FPDM?

Does it matter that my harness only has one relay? and also that it feeds both power wires from the pumps into on power wire on the Harness. Same with the ground, both grounds go to on wire on the harness.

I also cleared the codes reloaded the tune and now I get a p1000 and the P1237 this time, which is a Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Fault.
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post #11 of 31 Old January 9th, 2017, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01Bullitt82 View Post
Ok I will check the wiring when I get off work. No PPRV. It will only go to about 10 psi on one key turn I have to turn in on and off about three times for it to build up to 40 then it immediately bleeds out. It does not go up on crank.

What do you mean by without the jumper harness? Just hook it up like stock with 1 FPDM?

Does it matter that my harness only has one relay? and also that it feeds both power wires from the pumps into on power wire on the Harness. Same with the ground, both grounds go to on wire on the harness.

I also cleared the codes reloaded the tune and now I get a p1000 and the P1237 this time, which is a Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Fault.
As long as the wire uses for the ground/power is a large enough wire (small enough gauge) going two into one should be fine, assuming the ground location and power source are reliable as well.

Based on the code and what others have said, I highly recommend checking through the wiring, as there are more and more things pointing to the wiring being an issue.

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post #12 of 31 Old January 9th, 2017, 10:42 AM Thread Starter
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That's going to be the first thing I check when I get home. Would the possible faulty wiring prevent it from starting even when spraying starter fluid into the throttle body?
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post #13 of 31 Old January 10th, 2017, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Update: I checked the wiring and didn't find anything wrong but I did wire up the stock wiring and tried running it through 1 FPDM and it still wont start. However it didn't throw any codes this time. The pumps weren't wired backwards. Either my fuel pressure gauge is messed up or I'm not getting any fuel pressure. I still don't understand why It didn't try starting when spraying starter fluid in the intake if this is a fuel problem? Next question.....I opted to not install the tank In the car because I wanted to make sure everything was operating properly before installing. This cant cause this issue can it? I mean its only the evap lines and such. Yes the fuel line is hooked up.lol. So pretty much these are biggest concerns/questions

1. I'm I wrong to be thinking more towards a possible ECU/Tune issue considering the starter fluid is not working and I'm not building fuel pressure when cranked? On top of not throwing any codes with the stock harness.

2. Does the tank HAVE to be installed with all evap lines connected to start properly?

3. What should I check next????

Thank you all for your input and helping me try to figure this out. I've been working on this car for about 8 months and was very excited to get it back to together then this happens so this has been a disappointing weekend to say the least.
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post #14 of 31 Old January 10th, 2017, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
I've been working on this car for about 8 months and was very excited to get it back to together then this happens so this has been a disappointing weekend to say the least.
You have much to learn, young grasshoppa. This is a minor speedbump.

Your car will start and run with the fuel tank on the ground, even without the evap lines hooked up. I've done it.

First thing I would do is confirm your fuel pressure is reading correctly. Jumper your pumps (key on, use a jumper to ground the - side of the pump), and see if your fuel pressure moves when the pumps kick on. If it does, good, you have a something to refer to.

I reiterate the previous question; do you have a PPRV delete? If yes, the pressure draining off after prime is perfectly normal. If not, it strongly sounds like there may be a leak at one of the joints in the tank. Have you looked in the tank?

If your fault code goes away when you hook up the stock wiring, that points to a problem in your wiring or second FPDM. Try hooking it up to the second FPDM only. Is there a fault? Then bad FPDM. If there's no fault, it's the jumper harness.

Regarding the fault code, here's an excerpt from a thread over on corral as to possible causes:
Quote:
This is a fuel pump secondary ckt malfunction. Have you recently done anything to your fuel pumps?Is this code a hard fault or a continuos memory code? Your vehicle is a returnless system with a fuel pump delivery module which is mounted in the left side package tray area in the trunk.This module controls your fuel pump,it actually duty cycles the pump to maintain the pressure requested by PCM.This code is set when the FPDM detects a fuel pump secondary ckt fault then it will send a message to the PCM thru the FPM ckt indicating a failure has ocurred.The FPDM will then duty cycle the fuel pump to 75%(750 msec ON, 250 msec OFF) as long as the problem is present.Once the problem is no longer present the FPDM will return the duty cycle to 50% and the P1237 code will then be set to continuous memory. Possible causes are : Open or shorted FP PWR circuit
Open FP RTN circuit to FPDM
Open or shorted circuit in the fuel pump
Locked fuel pump rotor
Damaged FPDM
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post #15 of 31 Old January 10th, 2017, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Yes I have FORE Hat so no PPRV its gone. If I turn the key just 1 time there is "0" pressure. I have to turn the key back and forth about 4 to 5 times to prime it enough to get pressure and then it goes down immediately.

I have a new fuel pressure gauge for the rail coming in the mail this week to verify if my gauge is working. If the FPDM that I hooked it to last night with the stock wiring harness is good should it still not start? or was that just a test? I will switch the FPDM and see if it through any codes.

Also I pulled the pumps and checked the voltage at the pumps and they were 11.6 both of them. So there getting power. Gas comes out when I turn the key.

I will run the jumper test and try the other FPDM tonight and let you know what I find. Thanks again for the help. I cant help but think its something simple that I'm just overlooking.
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post #16 of 31 Old January 10th, 2017, 10:45 PM
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Is you Crankshaft sensor and your camshaft sensors plugged in? both of these snesors are on the timing cover, one behind the Power steering reservoir and the other on the passenger side bottom of the timing cover near the AC compressor... Physically check them by pushing them in..

New Motor? Did you get your reluctor wheel put in the front crank snout?


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post #17 of 31 Old January 11th, 2017, 08:50 AM Thread Starter
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I know the Crank sensor is plugged in I will check the camshaft sensor when I get home later. I'm pretty sure everything is plugged in but I will double check. Yes new Engine. I had it built by a machine/engine builders shop so I Assume the reluctor wheel is there. I know I gave him one and he didn't give me one back so I hope so.
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post #18 of 31 Old January 11th, 2017, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
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Alright I ran home during lunch and verified that the cam sensor is in. I also got my spark tester in the mail and tested the spark which I test three of them and no spark so I'm wondering if my Crank sensor or that wheel is messed up. I tested .3-.4 AC volts on the crank sensor which is a little low but I wouldn't think that means its fried.

Does anyone know if I can remove that sensor without removing the AC? If I can remove the sensor I should be able to look inside to see if the wheel is there.
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post #19 of 31 Old January 11th, 2017, 05:52 PM
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Alright I ran home during lunch and verified that the cam sensor is in. I also got my spark tester in the mail and tested the spark which I test three of them and no spark so I'm wondering if my Crank sensor or that wheel is messed up. I tested .3-.4 AC volts on the crank sensor which is a little low but I wouldn't think that means its fried.

Does anyone know if I can remove that sensor without removing the AC? If I can remove the sensor I should be able to look inside to see if the wheel is there.
That seems somewhat reasonable, considering it's usually tough to get a good read on something, especially an AC signal on a DVM.

I think I was able to wiggle mine out with the A/C on. Of course if you can't is no big deal. You can back the A/C off enough or flat out move it out of the way keeping the lines connected.

The lack of a CPS signal could explain the lack of fuel pressure while cranking. It probably doesn't command fuel until it sees engine speed. Of course there probably still is a problem with the harness if you get a fault code with it, but it doesn't sound like it's the root cause here.
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post #20 of 31 Old January 11th, 2017, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Ok what do you gus think of this? This is looking threw the crank postion sensor hole. That looks to thick to be a trigger
wheel????
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