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post #1 of 4 Old January 11th, 2017, 09:44 AM Thread Starter
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Hey guys, when I installed my X pipe i found that the stock one was only held with 1 nut on each side. When i was going to remove it i found out the nut on the passenger side was rounded out. I couldn't get a grinder or and cutting tool in that small gap. So i chiseled it off. Took about 4 hours of stop and go to finally break the nut off. Question is that the stock stud was a 10mm thread. I was thinking of running a die and hopefully saving the threads (times i missed or moved messed up some threads). OR should I run a smaller size thread like 3/8 or 9mm? Is this header stud removable? Any input will help. Not looking forward to it but I hate having that shitty sounding exhaust leak.
Thanks!

2001 Mustang GT - Airaid CAI, Accel Super Coils, UPR O/R X-pipe, Super 44 Flowmasters, BAMA Tune, Powerstop Rotor/Brakes,SR Short Throw Shifter.

Last edited by rickhdz36; January 11th, 2017 at 12:46 PM.
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post #2 of 4 Old January 11th, 2017, 11:41 AM
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I do not believe that bolt is removable

CAI, SR70TB, Professional products elbow, SR spacer, BBK upper and lower control arms, Steeda lowering springs with isos, Flowmasters 40s
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post #3 of 4 Old January 11th, 2017, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickhdz36 View Post
Hey guys, when I installed my X pipe i found that the stock one was only held with 1 nut on each side. When i was going to remove it i found out the nut on the passenger side was rounded out. I couldn't get a grinder or and cutting tool in that small gap. So i chiseled it off. Took about 4 hours of stop and go to finally break the nut off. Question is that the stock stud was a 10mm thread. I was thinking of running a die and hopefully saving the threads (times i missed or moved messed up some threads). OR should I run a smaller size thread like 3/8 or 9mm? Is this header stud removable? Any input will help. Not looking forward to it but I hate having that shitty sounding exhaust leak.
Thanks!
The stock manifold studs are in fact removable. I removed mine with a good amount of PB blaster and a hammer. I'd spray PB blaster on it, wack it with a hammer (carefully not to mess up the stud too bad), PB blast it again, let it soak for 20 minutes, wack it with a hammer....you get the idea. Once I did that a few times I easily removed the factory studs with a stud remover tool from amazon. I used a kit similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-41...d+removal+tool

MY issue is I messed up the thread on the manifold by threading in the wrong size stud after I removed the factory ones. To rememdy this, I ran long grade 8 bolt that's smaller then factory and created a nut/bolt set up.

Being that the nut was the thing seized and the stud is still in tact, you should be able to remove it with PB blaster, hammer, patience, and the remove kit I linked. Don't go cheap on the stud removal tool (learned that the hard way trying one I got at harbor freight).

EDIT: I just noticed you said it was the PASSENGER side. On the passenger side I removed the studs and used bolts. I thread the bolts from the bottom up (bolt head holds up the mid pipe and threads into the manifold). This works amazing tightening to 30 ft/lbs so you dont kill the crush gasket in there.

On the driver side (ball and socket type connection) I created my own nut and bolt set up as that's the side I screwed up the threads on the manifold.

If this doesn't make sense, let me know and I'll snap pictures from under the car.

http://imageshack.com/a/img832/3492/odessadone.jpg
This Is The Sound That Will Make You Go Sick....

Convertible Crew # 6
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post #4 of 4 Old January 14th, 2017, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheOdessa View Post
The stock manifold studs are in fact removable. I removed mine with a good amount of PB blaster and a hammer. I'd spray PB blaster on it, wack it with a hammer (carefully not to mess up the stud too bad), PB blast it again, let it soak for 20 minutes, wack it with a hammer....you get the idea. Once I did that a few times I easily removed the factory studs with a stud remover tool from amazon. I used a kit similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-41...d+removal+tool

MY issue is I messed up the thread on the manifold by threading in the wrong size stud after I removed the factory ones. To rememdy this, I ran long grade 8 bolt that's smaller then factory and created a nut/bolt set up.

Being that the nut was the thing seized and the stud is still in tact, you should be able to remove it with PB blaster, hammer, patience, and the remove kit I linked. Don't go cheap on the stud removal tool (learned that the hard way trying one I got at harbor freight).

EDIT: I just noticed you said it was the PASSENGER side. On the passenger side I removed the studs and used bolts. I thread the bolts from the bottom up (bolt head holds up the mid pipe and threads into the manifold). This works amazing tightening to 30 ft/lbs so you dont kill the crush gasket in there.

On the driver side (ball and socket type connection) I created my own nut and bolt set up as that's the side I screwed up the threads on the manifold.

If this doesn't make sense, let me know and I'll snap pictures from under the car.
Oh! I learned patience when breaking that nut off. I think ill be able to work the stud off. Thanks for the link! I love Amazon prime lol

Do you remember what thread the stud was? Since you replaced it with a bolt?

Probably try this next weekend.

2001 Mustang GT - Airaid CAI, Accel Super Coils, UPR O/R X-pipe, Super 44 Flowmasters, BAMA Tune, Powerstop Rotor/Brakes,SR Short Throw Shifter.
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