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Replacing Timing Chains, Tensionrs and Guides

956 views 11 replies 2 participants last post by  01Bullitt82 
#1 ·
Hey guys. I finally got my car put back together and it seems to have a tick coming from the front cover. I reused chains, tensioners and guides so I'm guessing this is more than likely my issue. First question is can I replace all these without the tool that holds the cams in place? and two how does this affect the degreeing of my cams. They were already degreed and I don't want to mess that up. Thank you in advance for your help.
 
#2 ·
If you put everything back in the same place it won't do anything to the degreeing of your cams. I'm assuming you have adjustable cam gears. That's where you degree your cams at. If you don't loosen the big gear on your cams, the cam timing shouldn't change at all. Just make sure you put the new chain on properly.
 
#4 ·
Just don't move the gears off the crank then, or if you do, make damn sure you put them back EXACTLY how they came off and you'll be fine.
 
#6 ·
Well I ordered new MMR race spec chain guides, tensioners and chains. Figured if I'm going to tear it apart I might as well upgrade something. Below is a video of the sound it was making. Funny story I sent this video to a buddy and he swears that his cobra sounded just like this and he never could find anything wrong with it so he tossed it up to just being a noisy modular with maybe a little bit of piston slap and then beat on it for 11 years. SOooooo maybe I'm overreacting but I'm still going to replace all the timing stuff since they were used parts and see what happens. What do you guys think of this noise? Using a stethoscope the sound is loudest at the front cover.


http://youtu.be/wgAUHQaBciA
 
#7 ·
Well I ordered new MMR race spec chain guides, tensioners and chains. Figured if I'm going to tear it apart I might as well upgrade something...
I don't hear anything horribly abnormal in that video. On a different note, did you happen to ask what makes MMR's stuff "race spec"? What do they do to the tensioners that make them any better than the stock ones? The aluminum chain guides look nice, but you'll never see them once the front cover is on, and that's not the part that usually breaks. Usually a piece of the nylon (or poly, whatever it is) wear guides will break from age, you get a nice piece stuck in your oil pickup, and there goes your engine.
 
#8 ·
I didn't get the race spec tensioners I just got the stock iron ones. I got the race spec chain guides just because I have seen a few people break them on high horsepower cars figured it couldn't hurt. They are pretty nice looking, it is a shame no one will ever see them.lol I thought the same thing when I put the Fore fuel hat in.
 
#9 ·
Good call on the tensioners. I'm all about purchasing a better part than stock, but if I'm going to do that, the seller has to quantify its worth. MMR says nothing about what makes "their" tensioners better, they just say they're better. Don't get me wrong, MMR does a lot of cool ****, and they offer a lot of good stuff, but they also put their name on things that they have nothing to do with other than the fact that they sell them with their logo on the part. Do you really think MMR is forging their own connecting rods? Hell no they're not, but they'll sure as **** advertise as if they were.

Many, many moons ago I used to build some very high dollar turbo "Chevy" engines for special applications. Because I purchased in bulk, Dart would put our company logo on the cylinder heads instead of their own, it was a cool thing to see our logo on the parts like that. With that being said, never once did I say that the cylinder heads were "our" design. I would come right out and say "These are Dart heads with a few small modifications per our request for our intended application. All we do is order the heads to our specs with xx valve angle. We use them out of the box, and the box says Dart when it arrives at our shop."
 
#10 ·
Yea I heard their tensioners weren't really anything special. I wasn't going to spend 200 dollars on tensioners. lol I got the stock ford chains too. I usually don't like to order from MMR because I see a lot of there stuff is marked high but they had the ford chains for a pretty good price and there the only ones that sell the stronger arms beside I think Shelby mike and his were going to cost about 100 more dollars then the MMR ones, so this time they got my business.

Sounds like I might be wasting my time and money anyways because some people think that the tic sounds some what normal for some modular engines. I know my stock engine didn't tic like that but whatever. I will replace the parts if it doesn't fix it and it doesn't appear to be having any lack of performance on the engine I guess I will have to live with it. I will check the followers and adjusters when I have the valve covers off to ensure there ok too.
 
#11 ·
I usually don't like to order from MMR...(but) this time they got my business...
Sounds like I might be wasting my time and money anyways because some people think that the tic sounds some what normal for some modular engines....I will check the followers and adjusters when I have the valve covers off to ensure there ok too.
Like I said, I have no problem with MMR on a personal level, I just think they need to be a bit more honest about what they are selling. They sell good ****, they just aren't the ones manufacturing it. There's no harm in admitting that, so I don't see what the deal is. It's probably an ego thing.

As far as the tick, yeah, that's a pretty normal sound. I highly doubt changing your chains or tensioners will do anything to fix that. If I were going to point at any component I would say the lifters. As they age they don't pump up as well and they can get a bit noisy. It's not catastrophic, just the nature of the beast.

---------- Post added at 02:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:58 PM ----------

I mean, I ran the MMR 750 short block in my 2000 and had no problems with it. I never pushed it anywhere near 750 hp though, so who knows how that would've gone. To me, the only difference between that shortblock I bought from them and a reman 4.6 shortblock off eBay is that the MMR had forged internals. I had to go on faith that it was assembled correctly, because there was no real build sheet, only a piece of paper with steps to building an engine with check marks next to them. A check mark doesn't tell me ****. If I knew that's all I was going to get I would've told them to save the paper.
 
#12 ·
Wow I never even saw that you replied to this. Only reason I didn't think it was the lifters or rockers is because they're all brand new and the noise seem to be coming from the front cover. I'm going to hope for the best and if it doesn't go away I'm going to continue tuning until a datalog tells me something is wrong.
 
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