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Long overdue, my build thread

10K views 100 replies 24 participants last post by  Snorky 
#1 ·
Well this is basically the summation of the last 2 years. I'll post a picture of the subject for starters fresh from the paint shop with mach 1 sails and cobra skirts. Car has a procharger P1sc, bbk 300 pump/KB BAP, frpp 47# injectors, procharger open bullet valve, SCT ba5000 comp cam 262's, stock valve springs. Running 9 psi with a 11.3 afr it was pumping out 415rwhp/397rwtq. Ran great with 4.10 gears, frpp gt500 traclock, Moser 31 spline axles through mickey thompson ET streets.



The bullitts rubber was worn out so I sold them for $300 and picked up these with brand new rubber for $500.





 
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#2 ·
Going to post some picks of the sketchy procharger setup.



3 core intercooler with mismatched couplings and pipe... most I painted the same color.



Here are the subframes



UPR mild steel K with stock A arms



The axle looking good...

 
#4 ·
Lol, yeah, it's a good time considering you can read it when following me down the road. I am uploading hundreds of pics to photobucket for the build. Lol. Going to be a little while. Then I can get down to business with this thing.
 
#5 ·
Some background on this.. this project is something I wanted to do for a long time, it was initiated as a therapy project (lol, perfect reason) following a failed engagement. So. In this build I am aware of doing certain things in a cheaper or more economic way, but I have a lot of time constraints from my career to work on my car. Sucks... oh well. Last cool pic with the blower setup.



It all started with all of these boxes showing up. And what came inside???!!









 
#6 ·
that intercooler is a much needed upgrade.

On3 2nd Gen FF turbo kit with their 67mm dual ceramic ball bearing turbo with the billet wheel upgrade.. and a stainless airfilter because **** it. UPR tubular A arm kit to go with the tubular K already in the car.
 
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#7 ·
On3 baffled cobra tank



Ohh look at that



Fuel hat, can hold 3 pumps. Very nice piece, black anodized aluminum.



Wiring kit and two 340 pumps



All of the 10an and 8 an fuel fittings plus the steel braided lines.



Can't forget the Tial 50mm bov and 44mm waste gate.



Overall I am very impressed with on3's fuel system and their turbo system. The only things I knew to avoid were the WG, BOV and v-bands.. everything is very well machined and welded. Working in manufacturing I have an eye for it. ;-)

Doing this writeup in tri-cities tennessee airport. I will continue with more when I get to Atlanta on my layover.
 
#9 ·
Thanks man! Was well worth it. One of my favorite features on the car.

First things first, the car went up in the air on stands. Removed the hood, supercharger, intake manifold, drained fluids, etc.



Then the car was pushed outside and placed on stands again. And the motor was pulled.



Won't lie, it was scary seeing it that empty. I felt crazy for pulling a perfectly fine 8x000 mile motor. Motor with my buddy Mike who helped me out through this project.



Pulled timing cover, valve covers, stripped it essentially. Ohhhh beautiful.



Removed the cylinder heads/cams.




Then soaked the heads in lacquer thinner and WD-40 and scrubbed them with a brass brush.



And after, all clean!!



Then the shortblock would be cleaned up, oiled, and stored.



And this came too!



Now it's time to fly to Newark. Yay...
 
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#10 ·
Awesome man, I love to see these cars together but let me warn you I was in the same boat as you using my car as therapy after my last trip to Afghanistan however i ended up needing to go to therapy for my car by the time it was all said and done LOL..

I look forward to seeing you make some progress im around if you need anything.
 
#11 ·
Lol point taken, I'll definitely keep note of that! I suppose for us (those who have the inability to leave things alone) thsee things have an ability to snowball away on us.
 
#12 ·
At this point, stripped down the tI'm ing cover, valve covers, thermostat housing, water pump and water jacket and prepped for paint.





And gloss black









Looking good
 
#13 ·
This is awesome! Im doing almost the exact same thing to mine currently. Built motor, on3 turbo, etc.

Im pumped to see someone using the on3 fuel system. This will be on the list for next winter i think! Looks like an extremely easy and well put together kit. More than capable of handling what i need. (currently a single 320lph pump, which will be my limiting factor i think)
 
#15 ·
If you change your mind on going return style. I have a KB 20 amp BAP laying around I could sell you. I'll keep this thread moving along
 
#14 ·
My cylinder heads are back, magnafluxed, decked and pressure checked. Looking good! Only took .002" clean up.



And here's the short block. Some of you may frown from this.

MMR 900 4.75 STROKER
Dished pistons for 9.5:1 compression
Mmr dodged pistons
Manley forged H beam rods
Pistons Notched
Ford racing cobra oil pump with billet gears
ARP 2000 bolts
Mmr side cap bolts.



Used the spring compressor to remove the stock springs in favor for some Brian TOOLEy racing springs with titanium seats.



Added a set of ARP head studs.. awwwwyeea.



Heads installed.. the comp 262 cams were sold for $500 and the money went towards this set of degreed CMS stage 2 turbo cams and the TFS adjustable crank gears. (This turned out to be a big problem, more on that later.)



Water pump installed as well as new ford timing chains and guids. Motor timed. Woot woot!



Water jacket, motor mounts, timing cover, installed, valve covers loosely mounted

 
#16 ·
Ohhhhh man!! The giant tortoise is in! I traded my bassani midlength headers and off road x-pipe for the rare P-51 intake. Threw it up there to see how it would look.



Disassembled and ready for paint.



Painted gloss black. Why so much black? To me it gives a factory like vibe to it.



Here it is resting atop the motor with the headers installed.



Oil pan drilled and bung welded to it.



Pan installed as well as rear main seal and pilot bearing.
 
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#17 ·
That P-51 is literally 45 lbs, LOL. Like good god! It has an awesome design. To it being a true cross ram with mildly long and fairly straight runners to it. The plenum that feeds it is massive.

Back to the build. Started on the suspension. Removed the stock A arms, upper spring perches and knuckles.. the knuckles required some persuasion. Though...



Knuckles and abs sensor bracket prepped.



And painted



Maximum motorsports coilover conversion kit came in. Converted my Koni yellow single adjustables using the 250# hypercoils.



A arms installed. (Which the tq spec is apparently "Tighten till the when you let the a arm go, it slowly drops" I did it to factory tq spec and it ruined the bushings >_< UPR kindly sent me a new free set since they never listed a tq spec.



Reinstalled. Yes, I painted the rotors, and yes, after this picture I stripped the paint from the contact surfaces. So no worries!! :) I am not crazy, lol just wanted paint on the edges, etc.

 
#18 ·
While I was in their I tried a McGuire black refresh spray on the inner plastic liner post cleaning it and it turned out like that.
 
#19 ·
Now that the suspension up front has been completed.

UPR tubular K-member and A arms
Koni yellow single adjustables MM coil over conversion.
UPR bumpsteer kit? Or is it steeda? Don't remember.
Eibach sway bar
MM CC plates.

Good setup. Love the ride quality with the konis.

On the ground.



Installing the motor was a pain. Had to pull it back out to remove the passenger side FF header. Then it went right in. Then reinstalled the header. Motor mounts were left semi loose for tranny install. dropped the intake manifold on it to admire it. Ohhhh ahhhhh!!!



cleaned the garage up and pushed the car back inside for the rest of the project, (tranny next to it)

 
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#20 ·
Looking great

I didn't see that new Trigger wheels on the front of the crank?

don't forget to use that spacer between your flexpate and crank shaft.
 
#23 ·


Cold side



Hot side



Fuel relays being wired up. The kit includes amp wiring to go from the battery back, LOL as well as an in line fuse. Good laugh at that. Simple install though.



Ye old safety switches



Padding to space the tank from the car, about to drill the second hole for the other blue air bleeder valve.



All said and done, coolant over flow relocated.

Break in worked out right. Had Pete @ performance dyno tune the car to 12.7 psi.



Shortly after on the way home, blew off a vacuum line. I may have been leaking by the whole dyno and all.. >_< fixed it and car didn't pull right afterwards. Took it home, then as soon as I pulled in the on3 oil filter spin on block failed and pissed oil out of the worm clamp hose fittings >_<.

Replaced thay with a moroso one and put 10 an fittings and hose on. Solved that problem. Only it's touching my header primary. So I question how much the header is sealing..

So I turned the boost down and slowly dialed it back up (was overboosting). Runs OK... still not running like it did when I first test drove it at the dyno.

Other headaches encountered.. melted wire loom.. and a melted clutch cable... which snapped shortly after leaving me stranded...



...good times
 
#25 ·
Great build! Your wheels go really well with the green.

Any updates?
 
#27 · (Edited)
Read the entire thread and admir6e it! More updates please!
Lol oh do I have updates alright, I'll have to see if half the pictures are on my old phone. I will check tomorrow evening when I get home from Germany. I am at a manufacturing facility here that produces high end air brushes. cool stuff...
 
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#28 ·
Very cool! Sounds interesting and traveling is always fun.

I use my car as therapy as well so it's interesting others do as well. It's interesting that I can now coin the term for what I've been doing. Literally when I'm working on the car all else in life (stress, problems) cease to exist.

Better to do this versus bury it with alcohol or try to take drugs. (Haven't done either but I've seen people cope that way). This way atleast I'm working towards a goal and doing something constructive. It's fun too because all the research that needs to be done to complete projects.

Anyway let us know!
 
#31 ·
Have you tested that coolant setup out yet as far as longevity in the heat?
 
#35 ·
the stainless steel pipe up too you mean? it sheds heat so fast. the rubber line acts as an insulator where as the stainless pipe releases the heat which the hot air just comes right out of the heat extractor. since the slew of updates I have done some cruises in Mexico and no overheating, and the trip I did for the old tune was a 6 hr drive each way and it did fine as well.
 
#32 ·
alright so 4 or so no the after that, I developed a rattle in the top end of the motor, so I pulled the motor and found that the snout of the 4.75 stroker crank protrudes .100" farther out of the block than the stock crank and my TFS adjustable crank gears needed to be releaved. basically it pushed the timing wheelinto the timing case fly cutting into it. it released a bunch of aluminum flake into the oil ... awesome.. so I swapped the mmr crank gear onto it, and retimed the motor. put new chains on, flushed the motor then put it all back together and the rattle persisted. stripped it apart shsin. motor came back out. it turned out the stock cylinder head cam journals had wear. but the cams themselves were fine. so.. I had some thinking to do.

 
#53 ·
alright so 4 or so no the after that, I developed a rattle in the top end of the motor, so I pulled the motor and found that the snout of the 4.75 stroker crank protrudes .100" farther out of the block than the stock crank and my TFS adjustable crank gears needed to be releaved. basically it pushed the timing wheelinto the timing case fly cutting into it. it released a bunch of aluminum flake into the oil ... awesome.. so I swapped the mmr crank gear onto it, and retimed the motor. put new chains on, flushed the motor then put it all back together and the rattle persisted. stripped it apart shsin. motor came back out. it turned out the stock cylinder head cam journals had wear. but the cams themselves were fine. so.. I had some thinking to do.


Hey bud, I am building my own MMR900 and wondering why you did not have the MMR crank gear to begin with? MMR did not advise to use it?
 
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