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Problems after Procharger instalation

2K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  Infinite Monkeys 
#1 ·
Just did my first start after the install. Got a start-up tune from Joe at Trick tuners.

There was a little hesitation in starting, but it smoothed out.

Problems are:

1: The battery light is on. I checked the voltage at the battery while car was running and got 11 volts, so the alternator isn't charging, don't know why. It was fine before. Connections are good, I double checked them. I had the grind the crap out of the alternator housing to make room for the blower pulley. This made a lot of aluminum dust, is it possible the dust fried the alternator?


2: the Boost gauge is not working. I manually tested it and it works. I only revved to about 2500 RPM.

I took the feed for the gauge and the blow off valve from 2 vacant ports that are on my intake. The intake is from a Crown Vic, don't remember the year. Both ports are after the throttle body plate, so I assumed this spot would show vacuum and boost. I hooked up a separate vacuum gauge to the port and it's showing about 17-18 in of vacuum.

Pic is of the ports on the intake, the one on the left is for the blow off valve, on the right is for the boost gauge.

Thanks in advance.

Edit:

It just occurred to me that I'm probably not revving it enough to start making boost? I've checked the boost gauge and the blow off manually and both work, so this hopefully just leaves the alternator.......Maybe?
 

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#2 ·
You shouldn't have had to grind anything. Didn't you use the offset spacer? And if you ground down the alternator to get it to fit is your pulley alignment right? The only time my supercharger pulley rubbed the alternator was when my pulleys were out of alignment. As far as the alternator goes I don't know. It sounds like a bad alternator. Just adding the ProCharger shouldn't have affected it at all.

Do you have a Vacuum/Boost gauge or just a Boost gauge? If you have a just a Boost gauge you will rarely see needle movement. Slightly revving it to 2500 rpm will never open the throttle body enough to allow boost to get into the motor. You have to be at almost WOT for that to happen. And, boost is gradual with a centrifugal supercharger. While my car makes 8.9 psi at 6000 rpm it only makes 1.8 psi at 2500 rpm. And, unless the throttle is mostly open it will stay in vacuum.

 
#3 ·
Mine is a '99, Actually it's a '99 timing cover on a '08 CVPI engine, in a '01 GT so no telling how these combinations acted together.

only spacer for a '99 application is a washer at one of the mounting points. Still I had to add 2 more washers in one spot and 3 washers in another spot for the belt to line up. The blower pulley is now straight with the alternator pulley, there's no way this was happening without the extra washers at different locations and after the pulleys were lined up, the blower pulley was rubbing so bad against the alternator that it wouldn't even turn.

I called the local Autozone and they are able to test the alternator out of the car, I'm planning on taking it to them in the morning to check it out. This will get me going in the right direction.

I have a cheepo vacuum/boost gauge that I used to check vacuum at the engine, it showed all good at both ports. In cab is just boost.

Not sure if it's just me, or it happens to every one, but something always goes wrong. If it is just the alternator, than I have to believe that the car gods hate me !!!!

Thanks
 
#4 ·
Don't know much about '99s except the tensioner is different. Here is a diagram from my ProCharger manual
 
#5 ·
I followed the Procharger mounting instructions for the '99 GT. '99 install is a bit different, mainly the mounting points and spacers.

All went well, the pulley alignment issues were easy enough to figure out. I hope I got it right. We'll see after some miles on it.

I have the alternator off right now. What surprised me about removing it was just how easy it was to do so. Just loosen the 2 bolts that hold it and it slid right out through that jumble of hoses and extra pulleys. Will post back with the alternator test results.

Thanks.
 
#6 ·
The alternator tested good and I tried another battery. It's fine now, for no reason 'cause I didn't "fix" anything. I think it was just a glitch.

Also, I had 2 of the new HPX MAF wires crossed, so that was making it run pretty shitty when warm.

Curious to know why the alternator only charges at about 12 volts?
 
#7 ·
12v is low. usually a good alternator will put out about 14v while running. I did a 0 gauge cable upgrade on mine with thick walled copper connectors and i get 14.4-14.8 depending on the day.
 
#10 ·
not much buy "real" 0 gauge red wire and black. 0 gauge ring terminals,0 gauge battery terminals. undo the front engine harness. remove the battery to engine ground, engine to chassis ground and battery to alternator wire and just replace them with the big 0 gauge ones. the factory ones are really tiny.
 
#9 ·
Did you check the little single prong Alternator harness over by the fuse block?
 
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