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post #1 of 66 Old April 18th, 2008, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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replacing your clutch? look no further.

i decided to replace the clutch in my 01 GT, the throwout bearing was squeaking and the clutch chattered badly. so i ordered a spec stage 1 kit from american muscle and decided to tackle this project myself. i will give a basic walkthrough with some pictures to help guide your way! enjoy!


first, get your car supported as high as practical. if you dont have enough jackstands, wood blocks will also work.



next, remove your midpipe. the bolts holding the pipe to the catback are easy to remove. just let your catback hang it will be ok theres no need to support it with anything.



the bolts holding the midpipe to the manifold can be tricky to get to. you will need an extension and a swivel joint to reach them



be careful, that midpipe will fall down once you get the nuts off the exhaust manifold bolts! remove the four plugs for the o2 sensors and remove the pipe from underneath the car.



next, drain the transmission fluid. make sure you do this before you remove the driveline or else you'll have a mess to clean up!

next step, remove the driveline. dont panic, the bolts look funky but they are just 16 point bolts and a normal 16 point socket will fit them. you might need a swivel joint to get to these as well

after you get the bolts off, let the rear of the driveline hang down and gently pull it from the rear of the transmission. it should slide out easily. once removed, set it aside but make sure you dont get the part that goes back into the tranny dirty.

up next, the starter. first disconnect the battery, then proceed. there are three bolts holding the starter on, the top one is tricky to reach. i got it off by using a 6 inch extension and 3/8 ratchet. the ratchet has room to turn in the small space in front of the starter.

you're getting there!

now its time to remove the shifter. remove the shifter knob and the shifter bezel. take the rubber inner boot off and then unbolt the shifter. this part is pretty self explainatory.

next step is the clutch cable. there is only one screw holding the shield onto the transmission. remove the screw and pull it back and it will pop off. there is a clip holding the clutch cable to the transmission housing that will have to be removed, and there is also a bracket on the clutch fork that will need to be loosened so you can remove the cable. this process is simple, dont sweat it!

now you're ready to start unbolting the transmission. leave the bottom two bolts (one on each side) until last, you will need them to hold the transmission in place for the next coulpe steps.

place a jack under the rear of the transmission and remove the four crossmember bolts from the frame, lower the jack SLOWLY and allow the engine to rock back on the mounts, this will make it much easier to reach the top two bolts of the bellhousing and also the two wiring harnesses you will need to unplug that are located on the top of the transmission.

remove the bolts holding the transmission to the engine. they can be tricky to get to, you will have to experiment with different extensions and swivels to get the right angle. the top two are difficult to reach, i got them out using a two foot extension and a swivel. now you need to disconnect the two transmission wiring harnesses from the main harness. they are both located on the top of the bellhousing and you might be able to reach them from the bottom, but i got mine both disconnected from the top.

once you have all but the bottom two bolts removed, place the proper support under the transmission. i used two jacks in the process just to be safe. it would not be fun to drop your transmission on the ground and crack the case!

once supported, remove the last two bolts and slowly wiggle it free. it should pull straight back with a decent amount of convincing. lower the rear first and as its going down in the rear, pull it back to clear the input shaft from the pressure plate. once you get your transmission out, pull it aside where you can work on it.

now, you need to remove the pressure plate and the flywheel. this is self explainatory, but be careful because it might fall off when you take the bolts out.



next you need to take off the flywheel. once you get all the bolts out, you might need to tap it loose with a mallet or use a screwdriver to pry it off the crankshaft. watch out because its heavy and it will likely fall off when it comes loose.

after you get the flywheel off, remove the old pilot bearing. this can be difficult and you best bet is to go to autozone and rent a pilot bearing puller. you will need a slide hammer too so if you dont have one you can also rent one at autozone.

you will need to take your flywheel and get it resurfaced. i wouldn't advise putting a new clutch in without doing so because it is likely to chatter!

now, clean the hole out of the crankshaft and install the new pilot bearing. you will need to use a rubber mallet to hit it in because it fits tightly. make the side with the two notches on the pilot bearing goes in first, that way if you ever have to replace it again, the puller will have something to grab on to.




next, get your nicely resurfaced flywheel mounted and torqued to factory specifications (60lbs). dont forget to clean it off with a rag and some acetone when you're done to get all the grease off!



install clutch disc and pressure plate. make sure the disc is facing the right way or you'll have to do it all over again! use the supplied alignment tool with your kit and tighten it down to specifications. remove the tool once the pressure plate is tight.


now do the new throwout bearing. its a good idea to lube the pivot point and the shaft to keep it operating smoothly and quietly

it is much easier to have a buddy help you, but using two jacks i managed to wrestle the transmission back into place


you will need to line up the input shaft with the pressure plate


at this point it may become difficult to get the rest of the way in. you will have to wiggle it back and forth to get the input shaft into the pilot bearing.


yes, its in!! before you get too excited, hook up your clutch cable and make sure the clutch feels ok and disengages. this way you know there wont be any surprises when you get everything else finished!


now the rest of the process is simple, just reverse the order in which you took things off and you're all set! dont forget to break in your clutch and refill the transmission fluid!



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post #2 of 66 Old April 18th, 2008, 09:31 PM
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good stuff!

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post #3 of 66 Old April 18th, 2008, 09:38 PM
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Great write up. +rep
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post #4 of 66 Old April 18th, 2008, 09:58 PM
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good write up dude.

wish I would have done this with the pics lol

Im about to have to take mine back out again and redo the TOB

Spec TOB suck the balls
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post #5 of 66 Old April 18th, 2008, 10:01 PM
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Thank you For the Great Write Up...

Thats quality right there...

Speak From Experience Not From What You Have Heard.
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post #6 of 66 Old April 18th, 2008, 10:34 PM
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i hope this helps me to do it on my 96 !!!

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sold the stang
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post #7 of 66 Old April 18th, 2008, 11:12 PM
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excellent....

thanks for the info and pics...

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post #8 of 66 Old April 19th, 2008, 01:18 PM
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great write up thanks!!

Just one thing.. i wouldn't get under my car supported on wood blocks, maybe that's just me..
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post #9 of 66 Old April 19th, 2008, 03:07 PM
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Great write up....

And I always use wood blocks when my 2 jack stands just are not enough...
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post #10 of 66 Old April 20th, 2008, 12:02 AM
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thats awesome i just pulled my tranny a couple days ago and bought a new clutch. the instructions that came with it are horrible but now im clear.
thanks
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post #11 of 66 Old April 20th, 2008, 03:07 PM
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good write-up, but I would not use wood blocks in place of jackstands. if that is a wood block holding up the front of your car in the first photo,that is dangerous as hell,one sideway's push and down it comes. remember people SAFETY FIRST

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post #12 of 66 Old April 20th, 2008, 10:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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good write-up, but I would not use wood blocks in place of jackstands. if that is a wood block holding up the front of your car in the first photo,that is dangerous as hell,one sideway's push and down it comes. remember people SAFETY FIRST
theres 3 4x6's stacked up laying horizontally holding the right side up, and one huge one, 6x8 or something holding the right side up. lol it looks like a 2x4 on that picture but it is extremely sturdy. i pushed on the car hard and it simply didn't budge. definitely think safety first though



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post #13 of 66 Old April 21st, 2008, 05:22 AM
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i have never had to do tranny work on my back but this would deff help if i did...i have always used a lift

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post #14 of 66 Old April 21st, 2008, 06:12 AM
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ah hem... How To Replace a Clutch | AutoHow.TV


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post #15 of 66 Old April 22nd, 2008, 12:31 AM
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next step, remove the driveline. dont panic, the bolts look funky but they are just 16 point bolts and a normal 16 point socket will fit them. you might need a swivel joint to get to these as well
nice write up.

Ill use it when i replace mine. But i saw one problem with the write up. The bolts for the rear are 12 point not 16. It's an honest mistake and most people won't catch it.
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post #16 of 66 Old April 22nd, 2008, 02:03 AM Thread Starter
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whoops!! i can't believe i didn't catch that.. you're right they are 12 point!



04 Mach 1. Whipple 2.3, T56, built motor. build in progress
'01 GT. Just a couple Bolt-ons. 0rwhp 0rwtq.
2003 Rubicon (wheelin rig)
2008 Silverado 4x4 (towin rig/road queen)

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post #17 of 66 Old April 22nd, 2008, 07:25 AM
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whoops!! i can't believe i didn't catch that.. you're right they are 12 point!

I saw that and saw like 16 point?? oh he means 12 point. its cool though. did that clutch problem ever go away?
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post #18 of 66 Old April 25th, 2008, 11:59 PM
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I have longtubes on my car....how would that effect the clutch install, would they be in the way?
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post #19 of 66 Old April 29th, 2008, 10:08 PM
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after you get the flywheel off, remove the old pilot bearing. this can be difficult and you best bet is to go to autozone and rent a pilot bearing puller. you will need a slide hammer too so if you dont have one you can also rent one at autozone.
also.. if you are too broke you can pack the hole full of grease or wet toilet paper and fint an extension or something like that that barely fits in the hole and put it in and hit it with a hammer... repeat till the pilot bearing pops out...

also.... when you take off the transmission cross member the transmission will drop... if you jack it back up into place, you can reach the top 2 belhousing bolts with a 1/2" swivel head ratchet wrench... this is on a 2v, im sure it would be harder on a 4v.
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post #20 of 66 Old April 30th, 2008, 12:41 AM
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easier to watch it done for most ppl...


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