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Discussing To V10 or not to V10 "6.8L" 2004 Mustang GT in the 99-04 Forum. for 1 i think you will have a shit load of problems doing a v10 ...

       

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Old May 7th, 2008, 01:26 AM   #41
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for 1 i think you will have a shit load of problems doing a v10 in the stang... when they first started doing 5.4 is was all out hell and turned out to be like a 7grand mod.. now after the years it has gotten better... it would be kool but you are gonna end up spending like 15 grand after it is all said and done to get like 300 hp and in the end you going to be mad when you get you azz handed to you by a v6 with 100 shot lol.... and you havent said anything about how much a fuel system is gonna cost..and i think your gonna have to go with a dif tranny.. you should have just bought a cobra dude lol... but if your pockets that fat do it.. and let me borrow a few grand to get started on my turbo kit..lmao
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Old May 7th, 2008, 01:33 AM   #42
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If you're totally bent on doing this swap, then definitely get the 3 valve.
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Old May 8th, 2008, 07:21 AM   #43
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All, I found a forum that had the wirring diagrams for the modular engine. It is amazing that the 4.6 SOHC 2v and 6.8 SOHC 2v have the same wirring...

Now what I need is the wirring diagram for a 2005 or newer 6.8L SOHC 3v which is simialr to the Mach1 or those who have used the Lincoln Navigator 5.4L 3v.

So any over you who have done the Navigator swap please chime in...

2008 Wiring Diagram Thread - ModularFords.com

Thanks,
Markus
 
Old May 8th, 2008, 09:39 AM   #44
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Another item found that may be usefull:

V10 Mustang Conversion Pan

"Fully fabricated steel T-sump pan designed for installing 6.8L V-10 engines into Fox Body and SN95 Mustang chassis. Pan sump is 6 1/4" deep, 12 3/4" wide, 9 1/4" long for a 7 quart system capacity. Features track proven road race baffle assembly with four trap doors and runners to direct oil to the pickup tube under all conditions, bolt-in slosh baffles, temp. sender bung, and magnetic drain plug."
 
Old May 8th, 2008, 10:10 AM   #45
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i looked into duing this swap because it looked like a cheap way to get awesome power but i decided to do a 180 and do no mods on my car cause i don't go to the strip and there is no where to use the power on the peninsula especially with the cops around here
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Old May 8th, 2008, 12:12 PM   #46
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Old May 8th, 2008, 03:31 PM   #47
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wow, that thing is total sex
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Old June 8th, 2008, 04:41 AM   #48
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Living the dream


Hey Steele,

I just got back from Iraq a few weeks ago but before I went I took my mustang autocrossing (2000 GT convertible, green) and blew a hole in the overhose in the front of my intake manifold (it was a pre-recall style with no steel insert to hold the pressure, at the time I had no idea there was such a thing, I bought the car from a Senior Cheif in the Navy about three months before hand) which of course, overheated the engine and warped the heads. My engine was toast.
I began doing research on what else I could put in the car because I'll be damned if I'm going to spend money to fix my car and not upgrade it! I found that the 5.4 would be a spendy but wise decision for a displacement upgrade, and I'm all about displacement. But when I went to some rebuilders I found that the 6.8 v10 was CHEAPER! Of course, this meant it was undoubtedly too big to fit and would never work...
Boy was I wrong.
My mustang has a 6.8 v10 sitting in it right now. I bought it for 2500 dollars out of an E-350 van with the wiring harness and brain. Let me tell you what I have learned.
First, get the engine out of a truck if possible. It won't matter much but the wiring harness will me a little easier to fit, the van has everything relocated forward so it's easy to access. Also, there is no advantage in the van intake. It is by NO MEANS as short as sullivan performance suggests. You will need an 8 inch cowl hood to fit that succer. I haven't done that yet but I plan to get a custom-made intake to fit a much smaller hood.
It's best to keep all the accesories from your 4.6 because they will bolt right on and fit the hoses in your car. Keep the A/C pump, the power steering pump, the oil filter adapter (it puts the filter at an angle which I haven't seen on any modular out of anything but the mustang), and the engine mounts.
The engine mount points on the modular family engines are the same but you have to have the actual mounts for the car, they are different for EVERY vehicle type.
Don't worry about the bell housing pattern, it's also interchangeable with all other modular motors, just make sure you keep that big metal gasket behind the flywheel/flexplate because it's specific to transmission type (manual v automatic). Also, keep your flywheel (I'm assuming that, like me, you have a manual), make sure it's the same bolt pattern as the v10 (some 4.6's coming from the Romeo plant have a six bolt pattern, you want an eight bolt pattern). If it's the same, use it! If not, the v10 flywheel will work just fine, they are both the same size and have the same number of teeth. However, if you want to keep your transmission you must still use the same clutch your car has currently. The F series trucks that came with this beast use a slightly larger clutch which has an even more slightly larger input shaft. Unless you're good at changing input shafts I don't suggest trying to use an F-350 clutch. Just make sure the clutch you decide to use is a Duratec from Auto Zone, they have a lifetime warranty (hee hee hee!) Oh, and the pilot bearing, yeah, don't worry about the pilot bearing. ALL the pilot bearings are the same.
Also, the van's exhaust manifolds did not fit, you will most likely have to get those fabricated at your local weld shop. That's my plan.
Before you try to lower the engine into your car follow these steps:
Remove the brake master cylinder.
Remove the A/C pump from the engine (if your A.B.S. module is located in the right front corner of your engine compartment.)
Remove any exhaust manifolds you have.
Don't try lowering it in with the transmission as one piece.
Remove your radiator and fan.
Remove any A/C lines you have feelings for.
Don't get mad.

That last one really helps.

As you may have guessed my car is, at the moment, a work in progress. I'll keep posting as I continue my quest. Pictures will come soon to back my words.
 
Old June 8th, 2008, 05:14 AM   #49
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Videos > pictures!!!

Seriously though, you should make a new thread and keep us updated. We should be the number one forum, and it should be a huge thread, just like r3dn3ck's post on Mustang Forums lol.
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Old June 8th, 2008, 01:14 PM   #50
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you want a v10 in a sports car go get a viper

and ya don't put a truck motor in a mustang.
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Old June 8th, 2008, 01:20 PM   #51
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But it's too late, ClarkeUSMC already did .
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Old June 8th, 2008, 03:56 PM   #52
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Originally Posted by ClarkeUSMC View Post
Hey Steele,

I just got back from Iraq a few weeks ago but before I went I took my mustang autocrossing (2000 GT convertible, green) and blew a hole in the overhose in the front of my intake manifold (it was a pre-recall style with no steel insert to hold the pressure, at the time I had no idea there was such a thing, I bought the car from a Senior Cheif in the Navy about three months before hand) which of course, overheated the engine and warped the heads. My engine was toast.
I began doing research on what else I could put in the car because I'll be damned if I'm going to spend money to fix my car and not upgrade it! I found that the 5.4 would be a spendy but wise decision for a displacement upgrade, and I'm all about displacement. But when I went to some rebuilders I found that the 6.8 v10 was CHEAPER! Of course, this meant it was undoubtedly too big to fit and would never work...
Boy was I wrong.
My mustang has a 6.8 v10 sitting in it right now. I bought it for 2500 dollars out of an E-350 van with the wiring harness and brain. Let me tell you what I have learned.
First, get the engine out of a truck if possible. It won't matter much but the wiring harness will me a little easier to fit, the van has everything relocated forward so it's easy to access. Also, there is no advantage in the van intake. It is by NO MEANS as short as sullivan performance suggests. You will need an 8 inch cowl hood to fit that succer. I haven't done that yet but I plan to get a custom-made intake to fit a much smaller hood.
It's best to keep all the accesories from your 4.6 because they will bolt right on and fit the hoses in your car. Keep the A/C pump, the power steering pump, the oil filter adapter (it puts the filter at an angle which I haven't seen on any modular out of anything but the mustang), and the engine mounts.
The engine mount points on the modular family engines are the same but you have to have the actual mounts for the car, they are different for EVERY vehicle type.
Don't worry about the bell housing pattern, it's also interchangeable with all other modular motors, just make sure you keep that big metal gasket behind the flywheel/flexplate because it's specific to transmission type (manual v automatic). Also, keep your flywheel (I'm assuming that, like me, you have a manual), make sure it's the same bolt pattern as the v10 (some 4.6's coming from the Romeo plant have a six bolt pattern, you want an eight bolt pattern). If it's the same, use it! If not, the v10 flywheel will work just fine, they are both the same size and have the same number of teeth. However, if you want to keep your transmission you must still use the same clutch your car has currently. The F series trucks that came with this beast use a slightly larger clutch which has an even more slightly larger input shaft. Unless you're good at changing input shafts I don't suggest trying to use an F-350 clutch. Just make sure the clutch you decide to use is a Duratec from Auto Zone, they have a lifetime warranty (hee hee hee!) Oh, and the pilot bearing, yeah, don't worry about the pilot bearing. ALL the pilot bearings are the same.
Also, the van's exhaust manifolds did not fit, you will most likely have to get those fabricated at your local weld shop. That's my plan.
Before you try to lower the engine into your car follow these steps:
Remove the brake master cylinder.
Remove the A/C pump from the engine (if your A.B.S. module is located in the right front corner of your engine compartment.)
Remove any exhaust manifolds you have.
Don't try lowering it in with the transmission as one piece.
Remove your radiator and fan.
Remove any A/C lines you have feelings for.
Don't get mad.

That last one really helps.

As you may have guessed my car is, at the moment, a work in progress. I'll keep posting as I continue my quest. Pictures will come soon to back my words.
we demand pics and vids of this beast
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Old June 8th, 2008, 09:39 PM   #53
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Pictures and Video


I put my tools away today and had forgotten my camera. The place I'm working on my car is a base facility that is only open tuesday through sunday. I'll have pictures in two days.
 
Old June 8th, 2008, 09:41 PM   #54
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What unit are ya with Marine? (14th denco 4th platoon here)
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Originally Posted by DeMello View Post
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Old June 8th, 2008, 11:21 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by ClarkeUSMC View Post
I put my tools away today and had forgotten my camera. The place I'm working on my car is a base facility that is only open tuesday through sunday. I'll have pictures in two days.
ok
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Old June 9th, 2008, 02:09 AM   #56
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I'm with HMH-361 in Miramar.
 
Old June 9th, 2008, 11:58 AM   #57
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with the wing. lucky you.
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Originally Posted by DeMello View Post
i love hondas
SCT Custom Tuning, JLT intakes, Aeroforce Interceptor OBDII gauges and PLX widebands
email joe@tricktuners.com

 
Old June 9th, 2008, 07:54 PM   #58
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Yeah, I'm with the wing. I have a friend that's a grunt and I don't think it would be too much fun. I envy him in some ways but I know I wouldn't fit in, not the way I am now anyway. The wing is the place for me, I'm good at what I do.
 
Old June 9th, 2008, 08:09 PM   #59
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I think the weight of a Kenne Bell is 32lbs. And you can off set the extra weight by only putting in half a tank of gas and not filling up. Read that in MM & FF some issues back.

And staying with the 4.6L 2v/4v... with heads/cams sounds AMAZING. Run open headers and im sure you can shake the ground
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Old June 10th, 2008, 01:31 PM   #60
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id say if you can afford it, and able to fabricate everything yourself, go for it, everyone has a supercharged mustang now days might as well be a little different and you'll most likely never come across anyone with the same setup as you.
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