[zerofx150]

Well BlackBlur and i are installing the CMS Stage 2 cams in his car today along with chains, gears and springs. I'll take some pics and try to get a write up made. Wish us luck

[99mustanggtman]

right on bro, let us see some pics and a video of that idle

[bigmike83]

yes please do. you are doing springs too right. get lots of pics and then some video at the end. these are the same cams i'm planning on installing this winter

[zerofx150]

thats the plan and yes we are swapping springs to the comp bee hives

[bigmike83]

sweet can't wait to read it

[zerofx150]

well after cussing, lossing a keeper and just being flat wore smooth out we are not very far. we lost 3 hours on the keeper plus we have to fight getting the new oil pan gasket and all buttons up. Here is were we are at: passenger side has all new springs, the driver side was the very back spring on. The harmonic balancer needs to come off along the the PS pump to get the timing cover off, then the chains and cams and the remaining springs. the very back springs on each of the heads suck. they are hard to get to and very litle room to work. but we will have a fresh start today and hopefully this thing will start.

[JohnC]

subscrbing

[zerofx150]

Alright Cams are in, car runs, still is hunting idle a little bit so well have to adjust some things tommorow. But all I can say is it sounds great and it is a little on the time consuming side. Plan a full weekend to do this little project. I will begin the write up tommorow, I've got pics and a video so stick around.

[Blackblurr_00GT]

And the car now pulls to 6500 and seems like it wants more. i raised my idle up to 750 or 800 cant remeber now but its doing ok.

and if u dident catch it was my car that got the CMS stage 2 cams put in.

Also my heads are not ported so i got alot more power left in her thats ready to come out.

[MustangMatt96GT]

cams are alot of fun. But them damn valve springs arent... Words of advise. Put rags in the holes of the heads where the oil ports are. That way you cant drop one of the valve spring retainer locks down in those holes.

Glad it runs. Did you guys degree them? It would run better and faster with degreed cams.

[Ryan Paymaster]

You seemed to tackle this pretty quickly! Nice work. I think you inspire a lot of us who want to put cams in but can't justify the ridiculous labor prices.

[Blackblurr_00GT]

Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT cams are alot of fun. But them damn valve springs arent... Words of advise. Put rags in the holes of the heads where the oil ports are. That way you cant drop one of the valve spring retainer locks down in those holes. Glad it runs. Did you guys degree them? It would run better and faster with degreed cams.

No we dident degree them I am going to buy some ajustable cam gears then degree them. and i agree could have got alot more power from a degreed cam but i'm not complaing at all

[zerofx150]

Jim at CMS said these cams are a drop in to stock location and no PTV and he was correct. I will warn every one the chilton book says to align the cam sprocket timing mark with the crank keyway, this infor is dangerously wrong and would put the motor almost 180* out.

[zerofx150]

Originally Posted by MustangMatt96GT cams are alot of fun. But them damn valve springs arent... Words of advise. Put rags in the holes of the heads where the oil ports are. That way you cant drop one of the valve spring retainer locks down in those holes. Glad it runs. Did you guys degree them? It would run better and faster with degreed cams.

yes we found out the hard way about the oil galley holes and we also found out that i can get my arm pass the elbow into a 4.6 oil pan. we did retreave the keeper that way that took us about 3 hours to do because we tried a bunch of other things before the arm trick

[Boomer]

Originally Posted by zerofx150 Jim at CMS said these cams are a drop in to stock location and no PTV and he was correct.

That is super, well the fact that you don't have ptv. Your engine could be running up to 12* off from bank to bank, do you think that could be an issue ? No aftermarket cam can correct for the fact that the factory gears can be out as 6* either way.

[zerofx150]

i agree there is a possiblity that they are off. We may go in later to degree them.

[zerofx150]

Well here is the write-up:
Please set aside a full weekend to complete this job because murphy will be at work with you. You will need a good set of various sockets shallow and deep 8mm,10mm, 13mm and 18mm come to my mind along with some good wrenches and a 10mm ratchet wrench will come in handy for the P/S pump. A good telescoping magnet, some trays for bolts and such, the valve spring compressor, and a very good air compressor is a must along with a cylinder air up hose. Also a harmonic balancer puller was needed. I know that i'm forgetting a few but I know i used these a lot.

Well lets get started. Remove the battery for safety. Remove air intake. Disconnect all the injectors, coils, sensors, and pop all the wire loom retainers off of the valve cover bolts. Also disconnect the fuel supply line.
.
Now remove the valve covers, you my have to remove the back coil on the passenger side so go aheadand remove all of them sense you have the 7mm socket in your hand because they all have to come out anyway for later. Alright, remove the p/s bracket that is bolted to the timing cover this helps with removing the driver side valve cover. Now the valve covers are off.


Now get you cylinder pump up hose, air compressor, magnet, trays, springs, and we had a straight pick (i recommend one that is non magnetized) and some paper towels for the oil drain holes in the head, and last the spring compressor and ratchet.

rags into the oil drain holes.

you can find these tools on ebay at time for cheap
Withc the compressor tool slide up under the rocker between the spring to remove all the rockers (here is where you magnet helps too) then remove the lash adjusters which may require rotating the engine for clearance. Set up a clean area to set all you part in an orderly way for reassemble later.

Now that all your rockers and lash adjusters are out lets get deeper. Remove the sparkplug from the cylinder you are at and screw in the hose to air the cylinder up. BE CLEAR OF ALL ROTATING PARTS AS YOU CONNECT SHOP AIR TO THE HOSE BECAUSE THE ENGINE WILL ROTATE!!! After the motor has rotated some with the plam of your hand hit the cam gear and chain to check if its done moving.

Get your spring compressor, magnet, and a tray with the springs that will be replaced. You may want to file the bottom of the new spring to take of some of the pointy edge they have. With the compressor in place bump the ratchet to separate the spring, retainer from the valve after that compress the spring with the valve still close securely with the shop air and with the magnet and retreve the keepers (2).

I warn you, the last spring by the firewall suck and will take some time to do because of the lack of space. install the new spring, retainer and compress like before. have the magnet handy we were able to place the keepers on by hand and then rotate the first one down and place the second one inplace and release the compressor and get them inplace. You my have to position the tool so that the first keeper can be slid around to the back side. Do this 15 more times. You may find it hard towards the back of the motor to do this but take your time, take breaks you will need them. It took Steven and I about 5 or 6 hours to do this because we fought the very back springs for about an hour or more each. We finished the last 7 springs the next day and it took us all of about 45 minutes. In this process you you invent new better ways to put those keepers on. those flexible claws like the one Arnold uses to pull the big red thing out his nose are helpfull too.

early idea that work for us.
go ahead and take the timing cover off but remember which bolt goes to which hole. you will have to remove the p/s pump three of the bolts will actually come out one will stay with the pump (remember the 10mm ratchet wrench here is its place) there are 4 bolts holding the timing cover at the bottomthat go through the oil pan. now that the cover is off, set the engine at TDC for cylinder one. we used a chiltons book for some of this info.


I found these websites helpful as well.
Timing the 4.6L SOHC Engine
2V or not 2V? 4.6L Modular Motor Build Up | FordMuscle Magazine
From here we just unbolted the chain tensioners, removed the old chains. at this point you my want to go ahead and press the chain tensioners back in. to do that you will need a vise (keep it handy you will need it later) a small nail and a pick. secure it in the vise and with the pick release the ratcheting mechanism and then gentlely compress it and place the nail in the lower hoel to lock it down, do it the same way for the other. Remove the cams and make sure that the caps are mark witch one and which way is front. Put some assembly lube on the new cams' journals and set them inplace. install cam caps and torque to spec. We tightened them from inside out to 100in.lbs.
after you have marked the new chains at the different colored links install the driver side chain first. REMEMBER THAT CHILTON SAYS THE KEYWAY IS THE TIMING MARK ON THE CRANKGEAR. THIS INFO IS INCORRECT. The crank gear has a mark, place the marked link one the crank gear mark and put the cam gear in at its mark and then slide it on the cam.

Repeat on passenger side then reinstall the tensioners with the Pins still inplace. Once inplace pull pins and the chains should be tight(ish).
Remember the vise and lash adjusters? Compress the lash adjuster with the vise, the adjust will not completely colapse but will go down about 75 of visible shaft. Reinstall in proper bores. Rotation of engine may be nessasay. Set the rocker on the valve and position it to go one the lash adjuster. Get the spring compressor and possition it BETWEEN the rocker and spring, you should only have to compress it some the get the rocker back inplace, we used that straight pick again, we also rotated the engine so the lobe was out of the way but be careful that the other lobe for the same cylinder is starting or finishing a valv open event. After we install all 16 rockers we rotated the engine a few times by hand to check for the PTV clearance.
Now to reinstall the timing cover. Dap RTV in the corner of the oil pan and block, the contact area of the head to block. We installed new seal and gaskets to the cover.


After thats done place a dap of RTV on the joint of the head and timing cover then reinstall the valve covers, coils, pulleys, pumps, hose, intake.
Start car.

[IMG]http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89/zerofx15...

Not all installs will be like this. We use CMS stage 2 N/A cams, comp springs, cloyes timing chains, ford cam gears from CMS.

[Rico-mofos]

great right up...i might try and do this myself now!

[MustangMatt96GT]

sure is nice to have a nice cammed car... Makes ppl look at you at stop lights...

[bigmike83]

so when you coming to tennessee to help me with mine. lol