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Bad Throwout Bearing?

5K views 40 replies 8 participants last post by  06z28eaTer 
#1 ·
Well guys I did some searching and found some threads about people with bad throwout bearings and such but alot of them where confusing, 1 thread had something about you could tell the TB was bad when the clutch was pressed in, the other thread was saying the opposite, well I noticed today a weird ticking noise with the car in neutral and ebrake pulled, my stepdad said it is prob my throwout bearing, if i just barely touch the clutch, not even trying to push it, it stops, could this possibly be something else? Any info would be great guys.
 
#3 ·
whats the cost for replacement? Anyone know? And how long should I wait to fix it or is it a must fix asap deal?
 
#4 ·
its the throwout bearing

our throwout bearings are supposed to barely rest against the pressure plate. its weird, but yes when the clutch pedal is IN it disppears. when your foot IS NOT on the pedal itll squeek. thats the signs of a bad tob on our cars. if its a ticking noise then it sounds like the problem I had. itll eventually start squeeking. AVOID SPEC TOBS!!!!
 
#6 ·
yeah man its a ticking, i have seen the TOBs are cheap but im curious about the average shop install, i dont really have axcess to tools to do the job and everything, maybe in a few months, but i wonder how long you can push these things.
 
#10 ·
lol exactly man, im trying to buy a house now, so this is just my luck though, gotta spend money on my car now LOL
 
#8 ·
go ahead and save up for a new clutch.

DO NOT BUY SPEC. go with centerforce or Ram.

I mean spec is alright, but you have to trouble shoot EVERYTHING. It too kme to transmission installs to get everything good. Go with a Centerforce clutch, the pilot bearing that it comes with, and a Ford OEM TOB.

You may also need an adjuster kit for the clutch. SOme people like these, others dont. The adjuster kit does add in a big problem because you can accidentally have the pedal too tight and itll make your throwout bearing go bad 50 times quicker...

also a clutch install is gonna run you i wanna 250 in labor alone. and then add however much your clutch will be.
Id go ahead and 600 total for the whole kit and kaboodle

I did mine on my own. I saved a **** ton of money doing it too.
 
#9 ·
well my clutch appears to be fine, no slip at all, shifts nice and smooth, car has 67k on it, would i be ok to run it a little while, say 5k miles and then change the clutch? because i hate to spend hundreds of bucks because it started squeaking you know. i'm guessing it will get worse, i want to get a aluminum driveshaft, so i may as well start saving though so i can get that also.
 
#12 ·
^ +1

Id get it taken care of asap.

67k miles on the stock clutch is getting into the iffy range bro. I mean im sure its fina and everythting, but a clutch is good for like 75k miles. theres no point in taking all that stuff out and not doing your clutch with many miles on it. I mean when I did mine my stock clutch (53.8k miles on her) was like new. I was just doing it because I never wanted to take the tranny out again after I got my 2nd and 3rd synchros redone. I guess thats what you get for buying a used car...
 
#13 ·
yeah im gonna have to break down and get it done soon then. i have some buddies i may be able to con into helping haha
 
#14 ·
well after doing all that work my self....

id say pay the extra money lol

unless you have acess to a hydralic lift and a transmission jack i say take it to a mechanic. I ruined a pilot bearing trying to put it in the second time.

The t3650 is no joke in weight dude. 140 lbs on your back freakin sucks. Im not a tiny dude whatsoever either, it just sucks because its a balancing act under a car that can only be like 2 1/2 ft off the ground with out a hydraulic lift...

Id pay the extra money and save my self alot of work and pain. also your car would be done in ONE day rather than 3 days. Remember that you either have to buy a new flywheel or get the old one resurfaced. resurfacing can set you back a day or two, but if you take it to a shop, theyll do it there.
 
#15 ·
ill prob buy a aluminum flywheel and centerforce clutch, may as well upgrade now lol but i seriously dunno how long it take to save this up, what is the mileage limit i should push? i dont really have to drive the car, i have 4 cars that i drive, i usually just drive my 03 when i cruise around or go out you know. im gonna assume $1k to get all i want, with the ALDS, maybe more, so i dunno yet. man this sucks, i was hoping my clutch cable needed adjusting or something. lol wishful thinking i suppose!
 
#17 ·
Could be worse...you could have blown out the front seal on your auto like i did today....car can't be driven till i get it all fixed.

As for your situation, there is no set miles that its going to get worse...if your in a crunch just drive it till the squeaking gets worse...but since you arent just park it till you get the parts. The job really isn't that difficult, especially if you have a lift and trans jack...it can be done in the driveway but the lift makes it easier.

And remember the golden rule...no job is free...gotta have beer and food (bbq and pizza are the best :) )
 
#20 ·
yeah beer and bbq definately lol and dude that does suck about the front seal man, bad day for everybody i guess LOL, i dont have axcess to a lift or a trans jack though, i may just end up coughing up the dough to get it done so i can say f**k it haha

and yeah zinc i bet that tranny is a mofo, i didnt even put my xpipe on, i paid a guy like 50 bucks to do it, cuz my buddy tried but he couldnt get to 1 of the bolts, he kept saying if it was 'his' car he could do it, maybe he just didnt wanna mess nothing up. so i guess next mods are for this. glad i finally got my shaker kit done though! lol
 
#22 ·
yeah beer and bbq definately lol and dude that does suck about the front seal man, bad day for everybody i guess LOL, i dont have axcess to a lift or a trans jack though, i may just end up coughing up the dough to get it done so i can say f**k it haha

and yeah zinc i bet that tranny is a mofo, i didnt even put my xpipe on, i paid a guy like 50 bucks to do it, cuz my buddy tried but he couldnt get to 1 of the bolts, he kept saying if it was 'his' car he could do it, maybe he just didnt wanna mess nothing up. so i guess next mods are for this. glad i finally got my shaker kit done though! lol
its the passenger side outside bolt on the manifold. All you need is a swivel and extension and 3/8'' or 1/2'' wrench and you need to put it inbetween the bend in the midpipe and the chassis and it goes right up in there.

i could prolly get my midpipe off in about 30 minutes now...
 
#21 ·
uhmmm wouldnt the tranny sag? even if it was on the crossmember right after the shifter? anyway, to answer that, no I havent. I hope I never have to pull the motor lol.

almost all work can be done on your back, but it just makes it 10x more difficualt than having a lift
 
#23 ·
i want to get longtubes, but seen some posts about how they have to come out or something if you have to change the clutch out ... guess i am glad i did wait on those afterall! lol id love to have them put on while its in the shop also, would this be a good time to get that done also?
 
#24 ·
Well keep in mind your tranny is one solid block...its all in how you support it...just like how your crossmember supports it when its properly installed.

The biggest thing you have to remember is to line it all up then slowly bolt it in...don't torque down the bottom bolts to begin with...basically line it all up then try to get the bolts somewhat snug all the way around..once you get to that point then you can do your proper torque specs.
 
#26 ·
i got quoted by a local shop like 2 months ago for a longtube/midpipe install for like 375, but maybe he would knock some of that off since he would be doing the clutch and stuff also
 
#29 ·
yeah for real lol so ill prob just save up maybe thru summer, with gas over $4 a gallon my 2g eclipse is about to get some miles on her ... so i guess ill be fighting the urge to drive the 03 for awhile, maybe a few miles here and there ;) lol
 
#32 ·
I'd say do the work yourself one time...just so you can know for yourself how it all works together.

If they do give you a discount, yes do it all at one time.


I've done more work to my car than i care to admit...worse part is that its basically back to stock....my next setup, i'll probably just pay the labor to have someone else do it.
 
#33 ·
my buddy with a saleen changed his clutch im gonna call him tomorrow and see if he did it, if so he prob has axcess to the jack and maybe even a lift, but ill get a quote. has anyone ever had 1 of these TOB's break because it got so bad?
 
#34 ·
man that sucks about the TOB going out on ya. my ford one was squeaking pretty bad when i replaced my clutch at 74k miles. i did a write up about the clutch install, check out the stickys at the top of this section. i am having problems with the spec clutch as well, as well as the spec TOB. definitely go for a ford OEM throwout bearing and hope you can get a decent price on install. because zinc is right, it is not easy to do by yourself on your back
 
#37 ·
speaking of that, Ill have your pic that I was gonna show you tonight. I forgot all about it. I got all this senior stuff oging on right now and it just slipped my mind. Ill have it up tonight.

Also, you can get a strong buddy to help you remove and reinstall the tranny if your gonna do it on your back. I eventually had to get my dad the second time and both of us are pretty big guys and it still was hard. Its hard to get the input shaft seated home in the pilot bearing. thats the hardest part when your on your back. Also you have to let the engine sag a little. I know its rought on the motor mounts but if you dont, your never gonna get to the top bellhousing bolts or the o2 sesor bracket that attaches to the top ofthe bellhousing.

long and skinny arms with tiny hands is the best thing you can ask for in this kinda work
 
#35 ·
i read the install, great writeup for sure man, im hoping for a decent price on install, im gonna call around tomorrow, hopefully get someone for a good price who will do it right the first time lol
 
#38 ·
well i called a few places, if i bring my own clutch and flywheel and everything they ranged from 275-375. but i think the guy im gonna go with said 300. he runs a tranny shop and i'd prob trust him more than anyone else. but he also said 600 and he would supply a werner clutch or something i dont recall the name, and he would resurface my flywheel. but autozone has a clutch with a lifetime warranty, should i stay away from autozone??
 
#39 ·
My to bearing went bad, and it squeaked all the time until if the clutch wasn't pressed it, but it ended up busting my to bearing retainer and it made the loudest, screachiest sound ever. When u pressd in the clutch all you felt was metal on metal scraping. So if u go without getting a new to bearing it could eventually wear out your retainer. Which is about 200 for a retainer and a tobearing
 
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