forged rotating assembly, 5.0 stroker?
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 12:17 AM   #1
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forged rotating assembly, 5.0 stroker?


ok im about to order a forged rotating assembly and main support system for my car. i wanna turn the boost up but dont wanna do it on stock internals. i have looked at manley rods/pistons/cranks and all the dss racing stuff. i was considering stroking it up to a 5.0 to get more torque and maybe leave the boost where it is. how would this affect the drivability of my car? would it be a bitch to drive on the street all that time? i'm not ordering til tomorrow or possibly next week but just wanted to get some opinions/info on it before i drop the money. thanks guys.
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 12:22 AM   #2
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I went with a stock bore, and stroke because I thought it would be a little more durable. The longer stroke puts a little more bind on the skirt and rings even with a good floating wrist pin.
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 12:29 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by jivepepper View Post
I went with a stock bore, and stroke because I thought it would be a little more durable. The longer stroke puts a little more bind on the skirt and rings even with a good floating wrist pin.
+1 4.6l are pretty thin
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 12:31 AM   #4
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I use cobra crank,,manley rods and wiseco pistons 20 over....
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 01:30 AM   #5
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unless you beat the hell out of it, it should last
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 05:15 AM   #6
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the 2v set up will supply a lot of torque, no need to worry about loosing any. a stoker set up is fine, but i personally would recommend just a .020+.
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 05:54 AM   #7
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Running a Procharger a stroker may not be your best option, however they make about 20ft lbs more than a stock stroke it will not be as effective as if you were running a roots/screw blower.
As mentioned above .020" overbore will yield a little more grunt, also a nice set of custom ported heads and a custom cam would be worth more in the long run. I still suggest rods and pistons but a steel crank is not necessary, people have pushed them well beyond 800 rwhp without failure. Adding the rotational mass to the engine of the steel crank will lower net power in the long run.
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 11:10 AM   #8
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A big bore (3.700" bore) would be great. You can get your extra cubes, unshroud the intake valves and keep the excellent stock stroke length.....
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 12:47 PM   #9
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so you guys are sayin that i should just go with a 20 over bore and not stroke it to a 5.0? im not necesarily dead set on the stroker, i just want to do somethin to get some more low end torque without losing too much top end.
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 04:44 PM   #10
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the 2v's produce great low end torque, it is the top end breathing capabilities that hurt these motors. cam selection has a lot to do with it also, get one that will work for you best. if you dont know, ask a cam tech or pm me, ac, boomer, etc, or talk with a local machinist.
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 05:04 PM   #11
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my 5.0 cobra with like 300hp made me feel more low end then this car does. it had like little mods. nothing big at all. even stock 3.08 gears....
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 05:22 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by acmillr View Post
A big bore (3.700" bore) would be great. You can get your extra cubes, unshroud the intake valves and keep the excellent stock stroke length.....

good god! what would a 3.700 bore set the CI at?
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Old May 23rd, 2008, 05:23 PM   #13
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