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Discussing Lowering Advice?? in the 99-04 Forum. I got it, so this is pretty much necessary when your lowering you car?...

       

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Old May 25th, 2008, 07:41 PM   #21
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I got it, so this is pretty much necessary when your lowering you car?
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Old May 25th, 2008, 07:45 PM   #22
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all of those things that people are talking about aren't "necessary" they are just things to get to make ur car "right" if u know what i mean...get all of the suspension geometry back in spec with balljoints bumpsteer cc plates, proper dampening with aftermarket struts, etc
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Old May 25th, 2008, 08:01 PM   #23
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If you're just going to run it on the street I would run some Tokico D-Spec shocks, Steeda Sport springs, MM camber plates and rear lower control arms. Depending on how much of a drop you do then you may want to condsider the bumpsteer kit also. A rack relocator kit may not be a bad idea also, again, depending on how much you drop the car, to level the tie rods with the control arms.

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Old May 25th, 2008, 08:17 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by mbmconstruction00 View Post
all of those things that people are talking about aren't "necessary" they are just things to get to make ur car "right" if u know what i mean...get all of the suspension geometry back in spec with balljoints bumpsteer cc plates, proper dampening with aftermarket struts, etc
Kind of a contradictory statement, wouldn't you say?
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Old May 25th, 2008, 08:19 PM   #25
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no..because ur car will still function and drive...just not to the best of its ability
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Old May 25th, 2008, 09:19 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by mbmconstruction00 View Post
no..because ur car will still function and drive...just not to the best of its ability
Huh?
So according to your theory I can drive a car on 7 cylinders with a broken windshield and only the front brakes operating and that's okay because it is running to the best of its' ability?
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Old May 25th, 2008, 09:33 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by gsjohnson View Post
Huh?
So according to your theory I can drive a car on 7 cylinders with a broken windshield and only the front brakes operating and that's okay because it is running to the best of its' ability?
No, a suspension out of whack is alot different than a cylinder misfire or something.
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Old May 25th, 2008, 10:34 PM   #28
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Well we dont need to start arguing about it because its not that serious of an issue. I think he just meant if I have the money then do it like. Also he says several times depending on how much I drop it I will need different things to even it out
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Old May 26th, 2008, 01:17 AM   #29
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I think GS's point is to run your suspension out of whack will ruin it. Do it all at the same time and do it right!

John
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Old May 26th, 2008, 02:09 AM   #30
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Yea thats what I am going to save for. Save up like a grand and do it all
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Old May 26th, 2008, 02:02 PM   #31
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Here's what I would start with!

Tokico D-Specs - $483.57
Eibach Pro-Kit Springs - $229.00
MM Caster Camber Plates - $199.95
MM HD Adjustable Rear Control Arms, no swaybar mount - $389.95
MM Full Length Subframe Connectors - $119.00
MM Bumpsteer Kit - $149.00
MM Steering Rack Bushings - $39.95
MM Swaybar Relocation Kit - $54.95

Of course........

For adjustable ride height you can always go with a coil over conversion kit!

John
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Old June 2nd, 2008, 03:06 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by '02SilverBullet View Post
While I do agree with most of what you said here. All those parts ARE really needed for a drop that drastic. But on the other hand. You recomended the BBK CC plates. I have to advise against that. I wont go so far and call the BBK POSs but the Maximum Motorsprts plates are much better. They have the 4 bolt design where as the BBK is on 3 bolt. The MM plates offer much more flexibility when setting. And on top of all that they have a lifetime warranty too! Guys here dont agree with me much but I must say... Most would agree on this!
BBk is a 4 bolt as well. I'd be willing to bet you looked at a pic of it on their site or in a catalog. The pic they use isn't the part for the 99-04 stangs. The 99-04 parts r 4 bolt... Id know, i have them....
 
Old June 2nd, 2008, 03:14 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by mbmconstruction00 View Post
all of those things that people are talking about aren't "necessary" they are just things to get to make ur car "right" if u know what i mean...get all of the suspension geometry back in spec with balljoints bumpsteer cc plates, proper dampening with aftermarket struts, etc
wrong. All those thing(bump steer, joints, spacers, etc.) ARE necessary. Very much so. And NO you car WILL NOT still "function" properly. With out all the proper parts you will be guaranteed to be lower. You WILL also be guaranteed to: blow your ball joints, ruin your steering rack, destroy your tires due to improper caster/camber, pull to one side do to improper allignment, and leak steering fluid. The list goes on. You must be using a definition for "Functional" more suitable for the local Ricers... Maybe we can primer black our cars, install race seats w/ home depot hardware, duct tape our collant leaks shut, and hack-saw our shifters to make our own short throws while we're still into taking short cuts...
 
Old June 3rd, 2008, 01:08 AM   #34
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so quicksilver.....getting springs, shocks/struts, cc plates and a bumpsteer would be a good setup? i'm making an order in a few weeks here so....
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Old June 3rd, 2008, 01:11 AM   #35
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+1 Quiksilver
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Old June 3rd, 2008, 03:03 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Tmac3320 View Post
so quicksilver.....getting springs, shocks/struts, cc plates and a bumpsteer would be a good setup? i'm making an order in a few weeks here so....
You definately have the right idea. It can depend on exactly what parts you are going with, mainly the amount of actual drop. The steeda x2 balljoints are an excellent part and you might wanna look into them. You can't set out with intentions of "LOWERING". The thought should always be to upgrade your suspension. In order to accomplish that you need what new parts you are adding to work in unison with the ones u r'nt replacing. Basically, dont slap some springs on, drop it 2" and call it a day. You WILL hurt performance and fuctionallity of your car. The bump-steer, C/C plates, and extended shaft ball-joints all help your new suspension parts function properly by correcting allignment, bringing back the roll center, etc. But, back to your question, yes that is a descent setup. I would add the ball joints just because your gonna be in the area and might as well replace them, plus they help. Just be sure to use the spacers with them to avoid greater drop in ride height. You may also wanna consider a coil over kit or an entire suspension package. Im not a fan of the suspension packages(eibach, koni makes one...) because id rather take each manufacturers best part and mesh them all together into a wello balanced "super setup". Throw some specific parts and manufacturers at me and ill be able to give you a more educated opinion.
 
Old June 3rd, 2008, 03:12 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by Roos85 View Post
Anyone know exactly what the bump steer does for you?
its just a set of adjustable tie rod ends that allow you to reduce bump steer created by toe in of your wheel. "Bumpsteer" is a change in toe angle caused by the suspension moving up or down. Bumpsteer is built into the geometry of the suspension and steering system, and has nothing to do with turning the steering wheel. The effect of bumpsteer is for the wheel to toe-in or toe-out when the suspension moves up or down. This toe change or “steering” occurs any time the suspension moves, whether it is from body roll, brake-dive, or hitting a bump in the road. Bumpsteer is undesirable because the suspension is steering the car instead of the driver.(Steeda)
 
Old June 3rd, 2008, 07:56 AM   #38
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Originally Posted by quiksilver225 View Post
its just a set of adjustable tie rod ends that allow you to reduce bump steer created by toe in of your wheel. "Bumpsteer" is a change in toe angle caused by the suspension moving up or down. Bumpsteer is built into the geometry of the suspension and steering system, and has nothing to do with turning the steering wheel. The effect of bumpsteer is for the wheel to toe-in or toe-out when the suspension moves up or down. This toe change or “steering” occurs any time the suspension moves, whether it is from body roll, brake-dive, or hitting a bump in the road. Bumpsteer is undesirable because the suspension is steering the car instead of the driver.(Steeda)
In laymans terms, Bumpsteer makes your car feel twitchy and unstable at higher speeds! LOL!

John
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Old June 3rd, 2008, 03:44 PM   #39
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Will a steeda strut tower brace fit on top of MM caster/camber plates in a S95? Thanks in advance if anyone knows...
 
Old June 3rd, 2008, 07:27 PM   #40
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quiksilver225 is right, when I bought my car it already had the Eibach Prokit... thats it. Now the car rides like crap, pulls to the right, and a power steering pump leak that will never end. But to make any of this better I will need cc plates or shocks/struts. So if you plan to lower the car at all do it right the first time so you won't have anyof these hassles later.
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