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Discussing Lowering Advice?? in the 99-04 Forum. I got it, so this is pretty much necessary when your lowering you car?... Modded Mustangs is the premier Ford Mustang Forum on the internet. We discuss all aspects of the Ford Mustang on the forum. Registered Users do not see the above ads. Please Register - It's Free! |
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#21 |
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Enthusiast
2004 Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 806
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I got it, so this is pretty much necessary when your lowering you car?
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#22 |
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Regular
2004 GT
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Chalfont, PA
Posts: 430
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all of those things that people are talking about aren't "necessary" they are just things to get to make ur car "right" if u know what i mean...get all of the suspension geometry back in spec with balljoints bumpsteer cc plates, proper dampening with aftermarket struts, etc
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Vortech Mongoose Kit,Meth Inj,Mac LT's & Pro-Chamber,SLP LM2,3:73,Accufab T-Body & Plenum,Pro 5.0 Shifter,FR500 Deep Dish Rims,H&R Springs,KYB Adj,MM CC Plates,Mach 1 Grill Delete & Spoiler,HID's,Saleen Wing,Steeda X2 & Bumpsteer
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#23 |
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Regular
2003 GT
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 350
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If you're just going to run it on the street I would run some Tokico D-Spec shocks, Steeda Sport springs, MM camber plates and rear lower control arms. Depending on how much of a drop you do then you may want to condsider the bumpsteer kit also. A rack relocator kit may not be a bad idea also, again, depending on how much you drop the car, to level the tie rods with the control arms.
John
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'03 GT, Max Motorsports Max Grip Box, Wilwood SLP 6 front/DL4 rear Big Brake Kit, Corbeau Racing Seats, MGW Short Shifter, MAC Long Tube Headers/Prochamber mid/ Flowmaster 40, FRPP 4.10, TrickFlow Diff Cover/75mm TB/Plenum, Moser 31 spline Axles, UDP |
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#24 | |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Posts: 681
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2004 Mustang GT The difference between a girlfriend and wife is about 50 pounds. |
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#25 |
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Regular
2004 GT
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Chalfont, PA
Posts: 430
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no..because ur car will still function and drive...just not to the best of its ability
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Vortech Mongoose Kit,Meth Inj,Mac LT's & Pro-Chamber,SLP LM2,3:73,Accufab T-Body & Plenum,Pro 5.0 Shifter,FR500 Deep Dish Rims,H&R Springs,KYB Adj,MM CC Plates,Mach 1 Grill Delete & Spoiler,HID's,Saleen Wing,Steeda X2 & Bumpsteer
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#26 | |
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Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Woodland Hills, CA
Posts: 681
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So according to your theory I can drive a car on 7 cylinders with a broken windshield and only the front brakes operating and that's okay because it is running to the best of its' ability?
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2004 Mustang GT The difference between a girlfriend and wife is about 50 pounds. |
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#27 |
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Regular
2004 Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 83
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No, a suspension out of whack is alot different than a cylinder misfire or something.
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#28 |
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Enthusiast
2004 Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 806
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Well we dont need to start arguing about it because its not that serious of an issue. I think he just meant if I have the money then do it like. Also he says several times depending on how much I drop it I will need different things to even it out
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![]() 2004 Comp Orange GT - SLP Loudmouth, Pypes O/R X Pipe w/mils, Steeda Tri-ax, JLT Ram Air |
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#29 |
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Regular
2003 GT
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 350
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I think GS's point is to run your suspension out of whack will ruin it. Do it all at the same time and do it right!
John
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'03 GT, Max Motorsports Max Grip Box, Wilwood SLP 6 front/DL4 rear Big Brake Kit, Corbeau Racing Seats, MGW Short Shifter, MAC Long Tube Headers/Prochamber mid/ Flowmaster 40, FRPP 4.10, TrickFlow Diff Cover/75mm TB/Plenum, Moser 31 spline Axles, UDP |
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#30 |
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Enthusiast
2004 Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maryland
Posts: 806
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Yea thats what I am going to save for. Save up like a grand and do it all
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#31 |
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Regular
2003 GT
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 350
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Here's what I would start with!
Tokico D-Specs - $483.57 Eibach Pro-Kit Springs - $229.00 MM Caster Camber Plates - $199.95 MM HD Adjustable Rear Control Arms, no swaybar mount - $389.95 MM Full Length Subframe Connectors - $119.00 MM Bumpsteer Kit - $149.00 MM Steering Rack Bushings - $39.95 MM Swaybar Relocation Kit - $54.95 Of course........ For adjustable ride height you can always go with a coil over conversion kit! ![]() John
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'03 GT, Max Motorsports Max Grip Box, Wilwood SLP 6 front/DL4 rear Big Brake Kit, Corbeau Racing Seats, MGW Short Shifter, MAC Long Tube Headers/Prochamber mid/ Flowmaster 40, FRPP 4.10, TrickFlow Diff Cover/75mm TB/Plenum, Moser 31 spline Axles, UDP |
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#32 | |
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Regular
1999 Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 248
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#33 | |
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Regular
1999 Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 248
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wrong. All those thing(bump steer, joints, spacers, etc.) ARE necessary. Very much so. And NO you car WILL NOT still "function" properly. With out all the proper parts you will be guaranteed to be lower. You WILL also be guaranteed to: blow your ball joints, ruin your steering rack, destroy your tires due to improper caster/camber, pull to one side do to improper allignment, and leak steering fluid. The list goes on. You must be using a definition for "Functional" more suitable for the local Ricers... Maybe we can primer black our cars, install race seats w/ home depot hardware, duct tape our collant leaks shut, and hack-saw our shifters to make our own short throws while we're still into taking short cuts...
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#34 |
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Enthusiast
2000 Mustang GT
Faster than white99stang
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 513
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so quicksilver.....getting springs, shocks/struts, cc plates and a bumpsteer would be a good setup? i'm making an order in a few weeks here so....
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#35 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
'02 GT-Under Construction
8.15@86 (1/8)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Aggieland,TX
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+1 Quiksilver
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#36 |
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Regular
1999 Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 248
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You definately have the right idea. It can depend on exactly what parts you are going with, mainly the amount of actual drop. The steeda x2 balljoints are an excellent part and you might wanna look into them. You can't set out with intentions of "LOWERING". The thought should always be to upgrade your suspension. In order to accomplish that you need what new parts you are adding to work in unison with the ones u r'nt replacing. Basically, dont slap some springs on, drop it 2" and call it a day. You WILL hurt performance and fuctionallity of your car. The bump-steer, C/C plates, and extended shaft ball-joints all help your new suspension parts function properly by correcting allignment, bringing back the roll center, etc. But, back to your question, yes that is a descent setup. I would add the ball joints just because your gonna be in the area and might as well replace them, plus they help. Just be sure to use the spacers with them to avoid greater drop in ride height. You may also wanna consider a coil over kit or an entire suspension package. Im not a fan of the suspension packages(eibach, koni makes one...) because id rather take each manufacturers best part and mesh them all together into a wello balanced "super setup". Throw some specific parts and manufacturers at me and ill be able to give you a more educated opinion.
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#37 |
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Regular
1999 Mustang GT
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 248
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its just a set of adjustable tie rod ends that allow you to reduce bump steer created by toe in of your wheel. "Bumpsteer" is a change in toe angle caused by the suspension moving up or down. Bumpsteer is built into the geometry of the suspension and steering system, and has nothing to do with turning the steering wheel. The effect of bumpsteer is for the wheel to toe-in or toe-out when the suspension moves up or down. This toe change or “steering” occurs any time the suspension moves, whether it is from body roll, brake-dive, or hitting a bump in the road. Bumpsteer is undesirable because the suspension is steering the car instead of the driver.(Steeda)
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#38 | |
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Regular
2003 GT
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Los Angeles, California
Posts: 350
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John
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'03 GT, Max Motorsports Max Grip Box, Wilwood SLP 6 front/DL4 rear Big Brake Kit, Corbeau Racing Seats, MGW Short Shifter, MAC Long Tube Headers/Prochamber mid/ Flowmaster 40, FRPP 4.10, TrickFlow Diff Cover/75mm TB/Plenum, Moser 31 spline Axles, UDP |
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#39 |
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Regular
'00 3.8L
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Odessa, FL
Posts: 142
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Will a steeda strut tower brace fit on top of MM caster/camber plates in a S95? Thanks in advance if anyone knows...
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#40 |
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Enthusiast
2000 Mustang GT
1/8 7.95@82.43
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Mobile, Alabama
Posts: 626
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quiksilver225 is right, when I bought my car it already had the Eibach Prokit... thats it. Now the car rides like crap, pulls to the right, and a power steering pump leak that will never end. But to make any of this better I will need cc plates or shocks/struts. So if you plan to lower the car at all do it right the first time so you won't have anyof these hassles later.
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