return style fuel system conversion

zerofx150 · May 26th, 2008, 09:37 PM

Has anyone done this? what all is involved with it.

9Sec03Cobra · May 26th, 2008, 09:46 PM

I have done a few and there are a few ways to do it. What are your intentions with the car?

Sean

zerofx150 · May 26th, 2008, 10:20 PM

well i spray a 100 shot on it and i have been having an issue with the fuel pressure drop on the hit. I am going to do the hot wire mod first and see what happens. I have a bigger pump as well so i also wonder what else it could be that is causing it. what is the fuel pressure at idle and WOT on these cars?

White99stang · May 26th, 2008, 10:24 PM

you can just do a dedicated fuel system for the nitrous. i can't believe you are having that much of a problem though cause i was shooting a 150 shot and had the fuel pressure problem for about less than 1 second and then the fuel pump caught up. but you can buy a 1 gallon fuel cell, a inline pump, and fuel pressure regulator and wire the pump to turn on when the nitrous is armed and have the fuel from that small tank feed directly into the fuel sol. But with what you have i doubt that spending over 1k for a returnless fuel system would be worth for what little power you are making.

9Sec03Cobra · May 26th, 2008, 10:44 PM

Fuel pressure should be around 38-40 psi. Im kind of surprised your having problems with the fuel system at your power level.

9Sec03Cobra · May 27th, 2008, 08:37 AM

I guess you data logged this on the dyno? How big of a drop are we talking about?

Sean

zerofx150 · May 27th, 2008, 09:38 AM

well i have never dyno'd it to determine whats going on, i planned datalogging it today but its raining. its just a bad hick-up upon engagement of the nitrous for that very short time and then its fine, but it bugs the hell out of me.

acmillr · May 27th, 2008, 10:47 AM

If it's a hiccup, it is probably getting fuel and air (from an unpurged nitrous line) on the initial hit. If it was going a touch lean due to fuel pump reaction time, you would not feel a power loss or "hiccup". Most kits have a small lean spike upon intitial activation. There are a few ways to combat this. With a wet kit, you can use a longer nitrous line from your solenoid. I was using a 6" fuel line and a 24" nitrous line at one time, and that took all the spike of a/f fuel ratio. 1100PSI of N2O just travels faster than 40 PSI of fuel. Also, a dry shot can be controlled even better by placing your injection point further or closer to the throttle body.

zerofx150 · May 27th, 2008, 11:15 AM

Well AC thanks for that info, i do have the purge on the car and and purge before the run, he is the question the purge is before the nitrous solidnoid not through it on the back side, would it be better to swap that over?

White99stang · May 28th, 2008, 11:38 AM

yes it needs to be after the nitrous soloniod. Also mine did the hickup thing when i tried it on the street but where it counted on the track it never hickuped at all

acmillr · May 28th, 2008, 11:44 AM

After the nitrous solenoid? How will you purge it after the solenoid from idle?

zerofx150 · May 28th, 2008, 11:58 AM

i have the NX kit and the nitrous noid if not capped on one side will just blow out the side but once engaged it goes out the bottom port

9Sec03Cobra · May 28th, 2008, 11:07 PM

It needs to be before the solenoid. If it were after then it would not purge until the nitrous solenoid opened first. You want to get the air out of the line before the solenoid.

May 26th, 2008, 09:37 PM	#1
zerofx150 Regular 2003 GT 13.6 @ 101 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Ada OK Posts: 387 iTrader: 0 reviews	return style fuel system conversion Has anyone done this? what all is involved with it. __________________ 03 GT 5sp, K&N FIPK, MAC LT ceramic coated headers, MAC Prochamber, Steeda Tri-ax, 3.73, SCT X-cal2 tuned by D&G Dyno Tune, NX plate Kit, Eibach Pro Springs, CMS Stage 2 cams. STRIKE design from MK Motorsports.

May 26th, 2008, 09:46 PM	#2
9Sec03Cobra Regular Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Virginia Beach Va Posts: 185 iTrader: 0 reviews	I have done a few and there are a few ways to do it. What are your intentions with the car? Sean __________________ 2003 Cobra 9.5 @ 146 on radials Just a few bolt ons with a good tune 04 Mach1 9.78 @ 138.9

May 26th, 2008, 10:20 PM	#3
zerofx150 Regular 2003 GT 13.6 @ 101 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Ada OK Posts: 387 iTrader: 0 reviews	well i spray a 100 shot on it and i have been having an issue with the fuel pressure drop on the hit. I am going to do the hot wire mod first and see what happens. I have a bigger pump as well so i also wonder what else it could be that is causing it. what is the fuel pressure at idle and WOT on these cars? __________________ 03 GT 5sp, K&N FIPK, MAC LT ceramic coated headers, MAC Prochamber, Steeda Tri-ax, 3.73, SCT X-cal2 tuned by D&G Dyno Tune, NX plate Kit, Eibach Pro Springs, CMS Stage 2 cams. STRIKE design from MK Motorsports.

May 26th, 2008, 10:24 PM	#4
White99stang MM's nicest mod, :) Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Apex, NC Posts: 3,771 iTrader: 0 reviews	you can just do a dedicated fuel system for the nitrous. i can't believe you are having that much of a problem though cause i was shooting a 150 shot and had the fuel pressure problem for about less than 1 second and then the fuel pump caught up. but you can buy a 1 gallon fuel cell, a inline pump, and fuel pressure regulator and wire the pump to turn on when the nitrous is armed and have the fuel from that small tank feed directly into the fuel sol. But with what you have i doubt that spending over 1k for a returnless fuel system would be worth for what little power you are making. __________________ 06 Dodge MegaCab Diesel 455rwhp/815rwtq REAL TRUCKS DON'T USE SPARK PLUGS

May 26th, 2008, 10:44 PM	#5
9Sec03Cobra Regular Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Virginia Beach Va Posts: 185 iTrader: 0 reviews	Fuel pressure should be around 38-40 psi. Im kind of surprised your having problems with the fuel system at your power level. __________________ 2003 Cobra 9.5 @ 146 on radials Just a few bolt ons with a good tune 04 Mach1 9.78 @ 138.9 Last edited by 9Sec03Cobra; May 26th, 2008 at 10:55 PM.

May 27th, 2008, 08:37 AM	#6
9Sec03Cobra Regular Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Virginia Beach Va Posts: 185 iTrader: 0 reviews	I guess you data logged this on the dyno? How big of a drop are we talking about? Sean __________________ 2003 Cobra 9.5 @ 146 on radials Just a few bolt ons with a good tune 04 Mach1 9.78 @ 138.9

May 27th, 2008, 09:38 AM	#7
zerofx150 Regular 2003 GT 13.6 @ 101 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Ada OK Posts: 387 iTrader: 0 reviews	well i have never dyno'd it to determine whats going on, i planned datalogging it today but its raining. its just a bad hick-up upon engagement of the nitrous for that very short time and then its fine, but it bugs the hell out of me. __________________ 03 GT 5sp, K&N FIPK, MAC LT ceramic coated headers, MAC Prochamber, Steeda Tri-ax, 3.73, SCT X-cal2 tuned by D&G Dyno Tune, NX plate Kit, Eibach Pro Springs, CMS Stage 2 cams. STRIKE design from MK Motorsports.

May 27th, 2008, 10:47 AM	#8
acmillr MM's Mad Scientist Slow Fella Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Tupelo, MS Posts: 5,111 iTrader: 2 reviews	If it's a hiccup, it is probably getting fuel and air (from an unpurged nitrous line) on the initial hit. If it was going a touch lean due to fuel pump reaction time, you would not feel a power loss or "hiccup". Most kits have a small lean spike upon intitial activation. There are a few ways to combat this. With a wet kit, you can use a longer nitrous line from your solenoid. I was using a 6" fuel line and a 24" nitrous line at one time, and that took all the spike of a/f fuel ratio. 1100PSI of N2O just travels faster than 40 PSI of fuel. Also, a dry shot can be controlled even better by placing your injection point further or closer to the throttle body. __________________

May 27th, 2008, 11:15 AM	#9
zerofx150 Regular 2003 GT 13.6 @ 101 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Ada OK Posts: 387 iTrader: 0 reviews	Well AC thanks for that info, i do have the purge on the car and and purge before the run, he is the question the purge is before the nitrous solidnoid not through it on the back side, would it be better to swap that over? __________________ 03 GT 5sp, K&N FIPK, MAC LT ceramic coated headers, MAC Prochamber, Steeda Tri-ax, 3.73, SCT X-cal2 tuned by D&G Dyno Tune, NX plate Kit, Eibach Pro Springs, CMS Stage 2 cams. STRIKE design from MK Motorsports.

May 28th, 2008, 11:38 AM	#10
White99stang MM's nicest mod, :) Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Apex, NC Posts: 3,771 iTrader: 0 reviews	yes it needs to be after the nitrous soloniod. Also mine did the hickup thing when i tried it on the street but where it counted on the track it never hickuped at all __________________ 06 Dodge MegaCab Diesel 455rwhp/815rwtq REAL TRUCKS DON'T USE SPARK PLUGS

May 28th, 2008, 11:44 AM	#11
acmillr MM's Mad Scientist Slow Fella Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Tupelo, MS Posts: 5,111 iTrader: 2 reviews	After the nitrous solenoid? How will you purge it after the solenoid from idle? __________________

May 28th, 2008, 11:58 AM	#12
zerofx150 Regular 2003 GT 13.6 @ 101 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Ada OK Posts: 387 iTrader: 0 reviews	i have the NX kit and the nitrous noid if not capped on one side will just blow out the side but once engaged it goes out the bottom port __________________ 03 GT 5sp, K&N FIPK, MAC LT ceramic coated headers, MAC Prochamber, Steeda Tri-ax, 3.73, SCT X-cal2 tuned by D&G Dyno Tune, NX plate Kit, Eibach Pro Springs, CMS Stage 2 cams. STRIKE design from MK Motorsports.

May 28th, 2008, 11:07 PM	#13
9Sec03Cobra Regular Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Virginia Beach Va Posts: 185 iTrader: 0 reviews	It needs to be before the solenoid. If it were after then it would not purge until the nitrous solenoid opened first. You want to get the air out of the line before the solenoid. __________________ 2003 Cobra 9.5 @ 146 on radials Just a few bolt ons with a good tune 04 Mach1 9.78 @ 138.9

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