First time racing tips look here

White99stang · May 29th, 2008, 02:31 PM

Alright guys i have been getting alot of pm's and also seeing alot of questions on racing at the track and how to get better 60ft times and how to get the fastest possible elapsed time. I will start off with you street tire guys first.

First things first everything is going to take alot of practice and alot of learning from your mistakes on what works and what doesn't.

1. Setup- remove your front sway bar, remove strut tower brace if equiped, remove spare tire and jack, remove rear seat, if you have adjustable shocks and struts make your front as stiff as possible and the rear are about medium stiffness. Air your front tires up to 45psi and the rear down to 22psi. Sit up in your seat and move it as close as you can to the steering wheel and still be comfortable shifting. Your not picking up girls in your car at the track so don't try to sit back and look pimp. Turn your a/c off and your radio so you can concentrate on what you are doing.

2. Make sure you follow the direction of the staff at the track on when to pull up to the line. Drive around the waterbox and then line youself up in the groves of rubber on the track. Then spin the tires over a couple of times just to clean them off, (dirt and rocks) DO NOT DO A BURN OUT IN STREET TIRES. then make sure your traction control is off.

3. You should be able to see the dark line across your lane where you will be lining up to stage. Don't try to haul ass and hurry up and stage. Take your time so you don't pass over the line and then look like a idiot cause you don't know where the staging line is. Drive up slowly and when you see the top 2 ambers light up STOP. If the person next to you hasn't staged yet wait for them to come up and light there 2 amber lights. Once they are staged inch forward until the second set of amber lights light up and you should only be driving forward about 3-4 inches.

4. Here comes there important part. DO NOT WORRY ABOUT REACTION TIMES. If you are there for test and tune and wanting to get the best practice you can please don't worry about or the person next to you. Bring the rpms up to around 4500 and hold it there while bringing the clutch out a little but not so much as it will engage and you will redlight. After the light turns green and you feel that your rpms are good dont' just dump the clutch and floor it cause then you will be saying hello to 2.4 60fts. Release the clutch slowly holding the gas at 4500 rpms so it comes off the line without spinning, if it starts to spin you can push the clutch in just a little feathering it. Once you made it out of the hole and start moving then you can floor it. Don't take the car all the way up to redline cause mostly stock the cars don't make power up there. Shift quickly ( if you don't know how to powershift then don't try until you get more familure with your car) at about 5800 rpms all the way to the end of the track. Remember if the car starts to spin let off the gas a little or completely cause its only going to hurt your times if you stay on the gas. If you feel the car is getting loose and go sideways a bit just abort the run and then drive normally to the finish line and try again on your next pass. Your car is not worth losing for a 14 second pass. Once the race is over and you crossed the finish line start applying the breaks, you shouldn't need to mash the brake pedal cause most tracks have enough room for you to slow down safely especially if you are only going 100-110 mph. Be courtious to the other driver also and if he is ahead of you let him exit the track first. Then don't go hauling ass to the time slip booth either. The easier you take it on your car after the race the cooler the engine will be. Get your timeslip and then go park in your pit spot and examine how you did. Think at what you can do to make it better. Then go get back in line if allowed to. DO NOT SPEED OR TRY TO SHOW OFF IN THE PITS cause noone cares and you can seriouosly hurt someone. And the most important part of this lesson is just to get as much practice as you can.

Lesson over and have fun out there, be safe, wear a helmet, and keep it on the track. The street is not a place to practice racing for the track no matter what anyone tells ya.

White99stang · May 29th, 2008, 02:37 PM

Now for you drag radial guys

Same applys for setup except bring the rear tire pressure down to about 16psi. Drive thru the water box stopping the rear tires in the water. Spin the tires over a couple of times getting them wet and then pull forward till your back tires are right on the edge of the water box. Put the car is second gear and bring the car up to 5500 rpms and then dump the clutch while hurrying and putting you foot on the brake. You shouldn't need to mash the brake pedal to the floor. You don't need to do a john force style burnout and its not a burn out competition either. Just sit there holding the rpms steady at say 5k rpms for about 7 seconds or so or until you see enough smoke where the rear is kinda cloudy. then let off the gas and do the same as above for pulling up to the line. Bring the rpms up to 5k to start to see what it does. You can try dumping the clutch too see what happens and that all can be adjusted in the next run if it spins or bogs down. If it spins the bring the rpms down, if it bogs then bring the up in about 300rpm increments. And then the rest goes with above for the rest of the driving part

DiZzyBonne · May 29th, 2008, 05:08 PM

Nice writeup! Btw, why should you remove your front sway bar, and isn't 45 PSI a bit much for street tires that say they should hold 32 PSI?

White99stang · May 29th, 2008, 05:22 PM

well the tires i had said max psi was 44, and less rolling resistance with them aired up all the way. Front sway bar keeps the weight from transfering, plus its 18lbs on the front that is not needed

White99stang · May 29th, 2008, 05:23 PM

And trust me dude everything i put in there works, i know from experience. If i can run a 13.8 with those tips bone stock and then consistant 13.6's after alot of practice and then 13.2's with just fats and skinnies, drag radials, shifter and catback i think its good advice.

DiZzyBonne · May 30th, 2008, 02:39 AM

Well I'm too lazy to remove my front sway bar, and I already knew about the tires, but I was wondering why you had them set so extreme lol. I guess just max out the front tires and set the rear to 22 PSI. Everything else sounds perfect, I can't wait 'til my first time on the drag

. After that, it's time to hit the track!

94pacecarSVT · May 30th, 2008, 02:52 AM

rep for a good right up its actually very helpful and useful advice if you pay attention to it and keep practicing it.

06RedfireGT · May 30th, 2008, 11:26 AM

/slow

Drag Racing 101

White99stang · May 30th, 2008, 11:49 AM

uh think mine is a little better there weinis

Hillsbaseball08 · May 30th, 2008, 11:52 AM

I wish I would have seen this post earlier....

Mustang Racer · May 31st, 2008, 01:48 PM

nice write up white. very helpfull.

SteviGX · June 1st, 2008, 01:52 AM

Great write up white

quiksilver225 · June 4th, 2008, 03:16 AM

Thank You. Its about time some one finally did this. Im getting tired of hearing the same questions on every forum from every person! You just gained major street cred in my book! lol

97Cobra · June 4th, 2008, 03:51 AM

I knew this from asking you my 1st time way back when but I was soooo nervous last time that I spaced out the font tire PSI and the front sway bar removal... but oh well theres always next time...

97Cobra · June 4th, 2008, 03:51 AM

btw good write up man!!

suprajay79 · June 4th, 2008, 11:26 AM

Nice writeup White. You pretty much answered my past three threads! Good way to shut up newbies at racing like me. Awesome info!

thewayshemoves · June 6th, 2008, 05:58 PM

if this is irrelevant just tell me. how much of a difference does the extra weight in a convertible actually make when you're launching and racing theoretically perfect? I've noticed that on the 8th mile I'm getting beat by stock coupes. on the quarter those same cars are a fender behind me. I've got some work to do on my launch though, this write-up is going to be my new bible for that, but is it hopeless in the convertible without extra work?

White99stang · June 6th, 2008, 06:02 PM

its all about weight man, a vert weighs alot more so of course to get more weight to go fast as something that is lighter you need more power

thewayshemoves · June 7th, 2008, 12:37 AM

I know I'm about 200 or 300 or so pounds heavier than the coupes right? I've got intake, plenum, throttle body, tb spacer, off road x pipe, flowmaster catback, sct 4 bank...I can take the stock coupes, but not as easy as I'd like...my launching helps a lot though, I've realized that a race can be won by a great launch against a terrible launch.

Ryan Paymaster · June 16th, 2008, 01:15 PM

I haven't tried this on my drag radials but I'm not sure if I'm daring enough for a 5000 RPM launch.

Great advice - I needed some tips. I'm running a full bolt-on 96 Cobra with drag radials (M/T) and adjustable suspension, my best 60' is 1.89. Could this be lower? Fastest pass is a 13.49.

I've got 4.10s and a rear end girdle, I'm afraid such a high launch will destroy something even though it's a little better than stock? I know racing is breaking and I'm not afraid too, just not sure if that's too much. I shift around 6500.

May 29th, 2008, 02:31 PM	#1
White99stang #1 Asshole Mod Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: elkridge, MD Posts: 2,658	First time racing tips look here Alright guys i have been getting alot of pm's and also seeing alot of questions on racing at the track and how to get better 60ft times and how to get the fastest possible elapsed time. I will start off with you street tire guys first. First things first everything is going to take alot of practice and alot of learning from your mistakes on what works and what doesn't. 1. Setup- remove your front sway bar, remove strut tower brace if equiped, remove spare tire and jack, remove rear seat, if you have adjustable shocks and struts make your front as stiff as possible and the rear are about medium stiffness. Air your front tires up to 45psi and the rear down to 22psi. Sit up in your seat and move it as close as you can to the steering wheel and still be comfortable shifting. Your not picking up girls in your car at the track so don't try to sit back and look pimp. Turn your a/c off and your radio so you can concentrate on what you are doing. 2. Make sure you follow the direction of the staff at the track on when to pull up to the line. Drive around the waterbox and then line youself up in the groves of rubber on the track. Then spin the tires over a couple of times just to clean them off, (dirt and rocks) DO NOT DO A BURN OUT IN STREET TIRES. then make sure your traction control is off. 3. You should be able to see the dark line across your lane where you will be lining up to stage. Don't try to haul ass and hurry up and stage. Take your time so you don't pass over the line and then look like a idiot cause you don't know where the staging line is. Drive up slowly and when you see the top 2 ambers light up STOP. If the person next to you hasn't staged yet wait for them to come up and light there 2 amber lights. Once they are staged inch forward until the second set of amber lights light up and you should only be driving forward about 3-4 inches. 4. Here comes there important part. DO NOT WORRY ABOUT REACTION TIMES. If you are there for test and tune and wanting to get the best practice you can please don't worry about or the person next to you. Bring the rpms up to around 4500 and hold it there while bringing the clutch out a little but not so much as it will engage and you will redlight. After the light turns green and you feel that your rpms are good dont' just dump the clutch and floor it cause then you will be saying hello to 2.4 60fts. Release the clutch slowly holding the gas at 4500 rpms so it comes off the line without spinning, if it starts to spin you can push the clutch in just a little feathering it. Once you made it out of the hole and start moving then you can floor it. Don't take the car all the way up to redline cause mostly stock the cars don't make power up there. Shift quickly ( if you don't know how to powershift then don't try until you get more familure with your car) at about 5800 rpms all the way to the end of the track. Remember if the car starts to spin let off the gas a little or completely cause its only going to hurt your times if you stay on the gas. If you feel the car is getting loose and go sideways a bit just abort the run and then drive normally to the finish line and try again on your next pass. Your car is not worth losing for a 14 second pass. Once the race is over and you crossed the finish line start applying the breaks, you shouldn't need to mash the brake pedal cause most tracks have enough room for you to slow down safely especially if you are only going 100-110 mph. Be courtious to the other driver also and if he is ahead of you let him exit the track first. Then don't go hauling ass to the time slip booth either. The easier you take it on your car after the race the cooler the engine will be. Get your timeslip and then go park in your pit spot and examine how you did. Think at what you can do to make it better. Then go get back in line if allowed to. DO NOT SPEED OR TRY TO SHOW OFF IN THE PITS cause noone cares and you can seriouosly hurt someone. And the most important part of this lesson is just to get as much practice as you can. Lesson over and have fun out there, be safe, wear a helmet, and keep it on the track. The street is not a place to practice racing for the track no matter what anyone tells ya. __________________ 99 Mustang GT VT 302 Stroker (race car) 11.13@123 for sale 9k 06 Dodge MegaCab. Cummins diesel power. Diablosport Powerpuck, Silencer ring removed, intake baffling mia, Isspro pyro, boost, and tranny gauges, 6inch chrome tip Last edited by White99stang : May 29th, 2008 at 02:39 PM.

May 29th, 2008, 02:37 PM	#2
White99stang #1 Asshole Mod Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: elkridge, MD Posts: 2,658	Now for you drag radial guys Same applys for setup except bring the rear tire pressure down to about 16psi. Drive thru the water box stopping the rear tires in the water. Spin the tires over a couple of times getting them wet and then pull forward till your back tires are right on the edge of the water box. Put the car is second gear and bring the car up to 5500 rpms and then dump the clutch while hurrying and putting you foot on the brake. You shouldn't need to mash the brake pedal to the floor. You don't need to do a john force style burnout and its not a burn out competition either. Just sit there holding the rpms steady at say 5k rpms for about 7 seconds or so or until you see enough smoke where the rear is kinda cloudy. then let off the gas and do the same as above for pulling up to the line. Bring the rpms up to 5k to start to see what it does. You can try dumping the clutch too see what happens and that all can be adjusted in the next run if it spins or bogs down. If it spins the bring the rpms down, if it bogs then bring the up in about 300rpm increments. And then the rest goes with above for the rest of the driving part __________________ 99 Mustang GT VT 302 Stroker (race car) 11.13@123 for sale 9k 06 Dodge MegaCab. Cummins diesel power. Diablosport Powerpuck, Silencer ring removed, intake baffling mia, Isspro pyro, boost, and tranny gauges, 6inch chrome tip

May 29th, 2008, 05:08 PM	#3
DiZzyBonne Enthusiast 2001 Ford Mustang Bullitt Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Bay Area Posts: 572	Nice writeup! Btw, why should you remove your front sway bar, and isn't 45 PSI a bit much for street tires that say they should hold 32 PSI? __________________ Current mods: Maximum Motorsports XL Full Length Subframe Connectors Catted Bassani X-Pipe Borla Stinger Catbacks H&R Super Sport Springs

May 29th, 2008, 05:22 PM	#4
White99stang #1 Asshole Mod Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: elkridge, MD Posts: 2,658	well the tires i had said max psi was 44, and less rolling resistance with them aired up all the way. Front sway bar keeps the weight from transfering, plus its 18lbs on the front that is not needed __________________ 99 Mustang GT VT 302 Stroker (race car) 11.13@123 for sale 9k 06 Dodge MegaCab. Cummins diesel power. Diablosport Powerpuck, Silencer ring removed, intake baffling mia, Isspro pyro, boost, and tranny gauges, 6inch chrome tip

May 29th, 2008, 05:23 PM	#5
White99stang #1 Asshole Mod Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: elkridge, MD Posts: 2,658	And trust me dude everything i put in there works, i know from experience. If i can run a 13.8 with those tips bone stock and then consistant 13.6's after alot of practice and then 13.2's with just fats and skinnies, drag radials, shifter and catback i think its good advice. __________________ 99 Mustang GT VT 302 Stroker (race car) 11.13@123 for sale 9k 06 Dodge MegaCab. Cummins diesel power. Diablosport Powerpuck, Silencer ring removed, intake baffling mia, Isspro pyro, boost, and tranny gauges, 6inch chrome tip

May 30th, 2008, 02:39 AM	#6
DiZzyBonne Enthusiast 2001 Ford Mustang Bullitt Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Bay Area Posts: 572	Well I'm too lazy to remove my front sway bar, and I already knew about the tires, but I was wondering why you had them set so extreme lol. I guess just max out the front tires and set the rear to 22 PSI. Everything else sounds perfect, I can't wait 'til my first time on the drag . After that, it's time to hit the track! __________________ Current mods: Maximum Motorsports XL Full Length Subframe Connectors Catted Bassani X-Pipe Borla Stinger Catbacks H&R Super Sport Springs

May 30th, 2008, 02:52 AM	#7
94pacecarSVT Enthusiast 1996 Mustang GT 11.2@122.36 Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: North Carolina Posts: 530	rep for a good right up its actually very helpful and useful advice if you pay attention to it and keep practicing it. __________________ black 96 gt w/ 00 gt motor, procharger p1sc 11lbs intercooled. comp cams xe274h .500 lift, full bolt ons, full tubular/alum. susp. w/ coil overs. 4 pt. roll cage. more pic and full list of mods in garage. www.rk-collection.com

May 30th, 2008, 11:49 AM	#9
White99stang #1 Asshole Mod Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: elkridge, MD Posts: 2,658	uh think mine is a little better there weinis __________________ 99 Mustang GT VT 302 Stroker (race car) 11.13@123 for sale 9k 06 Dodge MegaCab. Cummins diesel power. Diablosport Powerpuck, Silencer ring removed, intake baffling mia, Isspro pyro, boost, and tranny gauges, 6inch chrome tip

May 30th, 2008, 11:52 AM	#10
Hillsbaseball08 Enthusiast 2002 Mustang GT 8.15@86 (1/8) Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Fort Worth,Texas Posts: 590	I wish I would have seen this post earlier.... __________________ 07 GT500 & 2002 GT: 100 Shot Of Nitrous, 75mm BBK Throttle Body and Plenum, C&L Intake, Flowmaster Exaust, Bassani X Pipes, 3:73 Gear Ratio, BBK Upper and Lower Control Arms, Pro 5.0 Shifter, DiabloSport Tune, Underdrive Pulleys, Line Lock.

May 31st, 2008, 01:48 PM	#11
Mustang Racer Regular 2003 Mustang GT 12.78@106.44 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Delano, CA Posts: 237	nice write up white. very helpfull.

June 1st, 2008, 01:52 AM	#12
SteviGX Enthusiast 2002 Mustang GT 13.538@101.72 Join Date: May 2007 Location: Greenfield, Indiana Posts: 733	Great write up white __________________ Tuned by Rick@Amazon Tuning Solutions Mineral Gray Club Member #2 spendin money that I don't have to buy parts that I don't need to impress people that I don't know

June 4th, 2008, 03:16 AM	#13
quiksilver225 Regular 1999 Mustang GT Join Date: May 2008 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 248	Thank You. Its about time some one finally did this. Im getting tired of hearing the same questions on every forum from every person! You just gained major street cred in my book! lol __________________ BBK CAI, March Pulleys, Eibach Sportline Springs, MM C/C plates, Koni Yellows, Steeda X2 Balljoints, Centerforce DF clutch, FRPP Billet Flywheel, B&M Pro-Ripper Shifter, BBK ceramic coated LTs, BBK catted X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth cat-back, EBC rotors

June 4th, 2008, 03:51 AM	#14
97Cobra I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1997 Mustang Cobra 1/8 - 8.89@86mph Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Wyoming Posts: 6,518	I knew this from asking you my 1st time way back when but I was soooo nervous last time that I spaced out the font tire PSI and the front sway bar removal... but oh well theres always next time... __________________ Modifications and pics in my Garage... Reps Appreciated!

June 4th, 2008, 03:51 AM	#15
97Cobra I Post Entirely Way Too Much 1997 Mustang Cobra 1/8 - 8.89@86mph Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Wyoming Posts: 6,518	btw good write up man!! __________________ Modifications and pics in my Garage... Reps Appreciated!

June 4th, 2008, 11:26 AM	#16
suprajay79 Regular 2001 Mustang GT 13.85 @ 100.5 w/3000 ft. alt.! F***ing A! Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Mountain Home, Idaho Posts: 194	Nice writeup White. You pretty much answered my past three threads! Good way to shut up newbies at racing like me. Awesome info! __________________ 2001 Mustang GT 5-Speed, Oxford White; Chrome FR500s (17x10.5 in back), Chin spoiler, 20/5% tint Mods: K&N FIPK Flowmaster Catback BBK Underdrive pulleys 3.73 Gears (not installed) Eibach Pro-Kit BBK Plenum & 70mm TB SCT Livewire 91 oct. tune

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June 6th, 2008, 05:58 PM	#17
thewayshemoves Enthusiast 2003 GT Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Leighton, Alabama Posts: 563	if this is irrelevant just tell me. how much of a difference does the extra weight in a convertible actually make when you're launching and racing theoretically perfect? I've noticed that on the 8th mile I'm getting beat by stock coupes. on the quarter those same cars are a fender behind me. I've got some work to do on my launch though, this write-up is going to be my new bible for that, but is it hopeless in the convertible without extra work? __________________ SCT chip, 4.30's, Flowmaster w/ Turndowns, Trick Flow Plenum, BBK 70mm Throttle Body, Pypes X-pipe, BBK CAI, 100 shot and nitto radials on the way.

June 6th, 2008, 06:02 PM	#18
White99stang #1 Asshole Mod Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: elkridge, MD Posts: 2,658	its all about weight man, a vert weighs alot more so of course to get more weight to go fast as something that is lighter you need more power __________________ 99 Mustang GT VT 302 Stroker (race car) 11.13@123 for sale 9k 06 Dodge MegaCab. Cummins diesel power. Diablosport Powerpuck, Silencer ring removed, intake baffling mia, Isspro pyro, boost, and tranny gauges, 6inch chrome tip

June 7th, 2008, 12:37 AM	#19
thewayshemoves Enthusiast 2003 GT Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Leighton, Alabama Posts: 563	I know I'm about 200 or 300 or so pounds heavier than the coupes right? I've got intake, plenum, throttle body, tb spacer, off road x pipe, flowmaster catback, sct 4 bank...I can take the stock coupes, but not as easy as I'd like...my launching helps a lot though, I've realized that a race can be won by a great launch against a terrible launch. __________________ SCT chip, 4.30's, Flowmaster w/ Turndowns, Trick Flow Plenum, BBK 70mm Throttle Body, Pypes X-pipe, BBK CAI, 100 shot and nitto radials on the way.

June 16th, 2008, 01:15 PM	#20
Ryan Paymaster Enthusiast 1996 Ford SVT Cobra 13.36@102 Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Plainfield, IL USA Posts: 556	I haven't tried this on my drag radials but I'm not sure if I'm daring enough for a 5000 RPM launch. Great advice - I needed some tips. I'm running a full bolt-on 96 Cobra with drag radials (M/T) and adjustable suspension, my best 60' is 1.89. Could this be lower? Fastest pass is a 13.49. I've got 4.10s and a rear end girdle, I'm afraid such a high launch will destroy something even though it's a little better than stock? I know racing is breaking and I'm not afraid too, just not sure if that's too much. I shift around 6500.