Strut Replacement For Dummies - Page 3
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Old August 3rd, 2008, 04:10 AM   #41
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Sorry in advance for the novice questions. I have looked around here and this seems to be the best thread for the type of info I am looking for.

I have a 2002 GT Convert. Front end feels like mush. I started searching for solutions, and dont mind doing it myself, and I read this thread. Excellent job, thank you.

I have seen many types of solutions. Coil over may be too complex for me at this stage. So I am probably looking at replacement of front struts and perhaps springs. I see kits with struts, shocks, and springs that say they lower 1.5 inches for a better ride. Not sure I need lowering....or shocks, as back feels ok I guess.

My main problem is with my choice of strut in relation to spring. I do not see any lowered struts vs stock struts....the option is just sport or other titles to imply sportyness. This has confused me.

If I use a kit...and lower for 1.5 inches...and use say Bilstien Strut, that strut is for the lowered clearance. But if I keep the stock spring, I see absolutely no difference in strut. Would I use the same strut for a stock spring setup as I would for a 1.5 inch lowered spring setup?

How can I tell the difference between a "stock spring" strut and a "1.5 inch lower" strut? Or perhaps even, is there a difference?

Thanks in advance. Great forum here.
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Old August 3rd, 2008, 02:28 PM   #42
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honestly if u gonna get new springs, i would convert to a coil over, its not that hard if u know how to read the directions and ask questions on here. im not sure about ur strut question tho
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Old August 4th, 2008, 10:27 AM   #43
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Coilovers are a little "floppy" at times. The struts will work for dropped or stock height cars...
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Old August 6th, 2008, 05:32 PM   #44
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nice long tubes, btw.
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Old November 30th, 2008, 01:57 AM   #45
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great write-up
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Old November 30th, 2008, 01:52 PM   #46
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Thanks, I wil try to get some more write-ups done pretty soon.
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Old July 19th, 2010, 02:04 PM   #47
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This seems simple, but how do I know my struts need to be replaced? I don't wanna replace them and have it be something else. Also, how much do they cost?
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Old December 15th, 2010, 07:05 PM   #48
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Thanks man, I just bought shocks/struts, and I am planning on changing them tomorrow. Good write up!
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Old December 15th, 2010, 09:27 PM   #49
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Subscribe'd for later when i do mine
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Old February 18th, 2011, 09:30 PM   #50
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2002 v6


I just changed the struts in my 2002 V6 convert... here's my observation.
Great write up here on how to replace the struts. I found it easier to just remove the single strut nut on the top, rather than disassemble the whole plate. Once you remove the two bottom bolts the strut simply drops out.
Use plenty of penetration fluid, and air tools saves so much time on that top nut. Also if you have a high mileage car, get new bushings, rubber mounts and retainer. The strut installation is super easy... and if you only have to replace the top nut you should be able to avoid a front end alignment. Replacing the shocks and struts made this pony ride like a new car. Best mod for the money, and very easy to do. Good luck! Hope this helps. Thanks for the write up. It helped a lot.
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Old August 13th, 2011, 12:13 PM   #51
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I agree regarding just removing the top nut instead of the plate. I just finished mine and did it both methods, one on each side. I suggest removing and re-installing the top nut with the strut on the car. Those "screwdriver" slots are a pain - make sure you have the biggest screwdriver your local hardware store carries and use something like PB Blaster on the top notes if they are the originals a few days in advance. Half of my time was spent finding the right tool sizes so I thought I would list what worked for my '98:

Stock Top Nut - 15/16
Strut spindle bolts - 13/16
Strut spindle nuts - 15/16
Plate bolts (if needed) - 15mm
New Tokico top nut - 15/16
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Old October 24th, 2011, 01:26 AM   #52
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I just removed one of my front struts but I cannot get the top nut off, even with one person holding it with a screwdriver or a vice-grip. I'm thinking it might be easier to put back the strut in, tigthen all the bolts and then loosen the top nut as if I was starting from scratch. My question is :

When you say "removing and re-installing the top nut with the strut on the car", should I be jacking up the lower arm (and compressing the spring) when loosening the top nut ?


Originally Posted by cobrabro View Post
I agree regarding just removing the top nut instead of the plate. I just finished mine and did it both methods, one on each side. I suggest removing and re-installing the top nut with the strut on the car. Those "screwdriver" slots are a pain - make sure you have the biggest screwdriver your local hardware store carries and use something like PB Blaster on the top notes if they are the originals a few days in advance. Half of my time was spent finding the right tool sizes so I thought I would list what worked for my '98:

Stock Top Nut - 15/16
Strut spindle bolts - 13/16
Strut spindle nuts - 15/16
Plate bolts (if needed) - 15mm
New Tokico top nut - 15/16
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Old October 24th, 2011, 01:29 PM   #53
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Nice write up!
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Old November 3rd, 2011, 01:49 PM   #54
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YES, Jack the car up, put a jack or jack stand under the lower a arm, then lower the car to put the wieght on the lower a arm or the spring might fly out and do some serious damage. Maybe even kill u.
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Old November 3rd, 2011, 03:34 PM   #55
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Thanks.
Actually, I was able to loosen the top hexnut off by having the car on jack stands but not having the spring compressed (no floor jack under the spring). Once I got it loose, I put the floor jack to compress the spring and proceeded further.
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