[DeMello]

and im honestly not to happy

i mean ive thrilled i didnt have to pay for it but it doesnt feel rite and he didnt seem to know wat he was tlking about when it comes to driving

first off the clucth like vibrates in place and 2 months ago when he installed the clutch it did that and i had to go back 3 times intill he fixed it by putting some rubber thing on that he forgot about. and i figured same clucth, same mechanic so it should feel like it did when he first installed it last time but it feels COMPLETLY different.

but now he says it vibrating is fine in a "high powered car"

then he wanted to see how i drive since he says i ride the clucth

so i feather off while giving some gas, not bogging the engine and not spinning my tires. a nice smooth and comfortable takeoff

he on the other hand just snaps the clucth out and doenst feather it out at all and holy crap it was the jerkiest ride of my life and my neck was seriously hurting and he says thats how you drive

he also said theres no break in period needed and ive been hearing non-stop from everybody that the first 500 miles you go easy. i asked when he was driving it becuase he was banging gears at like 4000 rpm and he siad the clutch is already broken in and i was like how and he just said becuase it was installed or something that didnt really anwser my question

right after that he said it was an hydrolic (spelling?) and i corrected him by saying it was a cable and he agreed

and then the one thing that im most curious about (becuase his shitty takeoffs in first) is he said the clucth is either in or out and theres no inbetween

i thought that there was an inbetween and by feathering the clucth you are gradually putting the power at the wheels

when i took my bikers courses to get my license i was thought to slowly release the clucth while slowly rolling the throttle and thats how i always did it on my dirtbike so i dont see why it would be different in my car and why you would just let the clucth snap out from a dead stop excpessialy if your not trying to race and that clucth control was a big part of everyday driving but he said what he was doing would make my clucth last forever

so my tech questions are

1.) hes wrong about the break in period correct???
2.) my pedal shouldnt virbrate should it???
3.) im suppose to feather off the clucth but be off within 1-1.5 seconds (as told by fastfox 2 days ago)???
4.) isnt there an inbetween in from the clucth beign fully engaged to being all the way out and thats how you gradually give power to the wheels???

[00vabchgt]

my answer is find a new mechanic...

[zinc02GT]

Originally Posted by DeMello and im honestly not to happy i mean ive thrilled i didnt have to pay for it but it doesnt feel rite and he didnt seem to know wat he was tlking about when it comes to driving first off the clucth like vibrates in place and 2 months ago when he installed the clutch it did that and i had to go back 3 times intill he fixed it by putting some rubber thing on that he forgot about. and i figured same clucth, same mechanic so it should feel like it did when he first installed it last time but it feels COMPLETLY different. but now he says it vibrating is fine in a "high powered car" then he wanted to see how i drive since he says i ride the clucth so i feather off while giving some gas, not bogging the engine and not spinning my tires. a nice smooth and comfortable takeoff he on the other hand just snaps the clucth out and doenst feather it out at all and holy crap it was the jerkiest ride of my life and my neck was seriously hurting and he says thats how you drive he also said theres no break in period needed and ive been hearing non-stop first 500 miles go easy. i asked when he was driving it becuase he was banging gears at like 4000 rpm and he siad the clutch is already broken in and i was like how and he just said becuase it was installed oh something right after that he said it was an hydrolic (spelling?) and i corrected him by saying it was a cable and he agreed and then the one thing that im most curious about (becuase his shitty takeoffs in first) is he said the clucth is either in or out and theres no inbetween i thought that there was an inbetween and by feathering the clucth you are gradually putting the power at the wheels when i took my bikers courses to get my license i was thought to slowly release the clucth while slowly rolling the throttle and thats how i always did it on my dirtbike so i dont see why it would be different in my car and why you would just let the clucth snap out from a dead stop excpessialy if your not trying to race so my tech questions are 1.) hes wrong about the break in period correct??? 2.) my pedal shouldnt virbrate should it??? 3.) im suppose to feather off the clucth but be off within 1-1.5 seconds (as told by fastfox 2 days ago)??? 4.) isnt there an inbetween in from the clucth beign fully engaged to being all the way out and thats how you gradually give power to the wheels???

1. Yes he is wrong. You break in a clutch for 450-500 miles PERIOD. Hes an idiot.
2. Mine doesnt really vibrate. Mine did a little bit with the stock quadrant.
3. Ill get a video for you of how to do it. Ill tape it myself...
4. Depends. Some clutches have no freeplay. Its either go or stall. Normally that comes from higher end performance clutches like stage 3s and up...

From what I can tell, your mechanic is a completel idiot. If he installed the clutch himself, he would have never said it was a hydraulic clutch. Its all cable. Its obvious too. Wheres the fucking resevoir? lol Honestly, Id give it a month or two, see how things are then if they fuck up take it to someone else and get it done RIGHT

[DeMello]

Originally Posted by zinc02GT 1. Yes he is wrong. You break in a clutch for 450-500 miles PERIOD. Hes an idiot. 2. Mine doesnt really vibrate. Mine did a little bit with the stock quadrant. 3. Ill get a video for you of how to do it. Ill tape it myself... 4. Depends. Some clutches have no freeplay. Its either go or stall. Normally that comes from higher end performance clutches like stage 3s and up... From what I can tell, your mechanic is a completel idiot. If he installed the clutch himself, he would have never said it was a hydraulic clutch. Its all cable. Its obvious too. Wheres the fucking resevoir? lol Honestly, Id give it a month or two, see how things are then if they fuck up take it to someone else and get it done RIGHT

well its a stage 1 becuase he said stage 2s are bad for your flywheel lol

[HMUSN]

1.) hes wrong about the break in period correct???
2.) my pedal shouldnt virbrate should it???
3.) im suppose to feather off the clucth but be off within 1-1.5 seconds (as told by fastfox 2 days ago)???
4.) isnt there an inbetween in from the clucth beign fully engaged to being all the way out and thats how you gradually give power to the wheels???

1. yes he is wrong
2. no it shouldn't. sounds like a tob issue
3. that's right.
4. something like that.
and I agree with 00vabchgt

[DeMello]

Originally Posted by HMUSN 1.) hes wrong about the break in period correct??? 2.) my pedal shouldnt virbrate should it??? 3.) im suppose to feather off the clucth but be off within 1-1.5 seconds (as told by fastfox 2 days ago)??? 4.) isnt there an inbetween in from the clucth beign fully engaged to being all the way out and thats how you gradually give power to the wheels??? 1. yes he is wrong 2. no it shouldn't. sounds like a tob issue 3. that's right. 4. something like that. and I agree with 00vabchgt

a tob?

[zinc02GT]

Originally Posted by DeMello well its a stage 1 becuase he said stage 2s are bad for your flywheel lol

Again, an idiot. In your case a stage 2 probably would have been your best bet because im sure you plan on doing more performance mods...

Find a new mechanic

[00vabchgt]

Originally Posted by DeMello a tob?

throw out bearing...

[HMUSN]

throw out bearing.

[zinc02GT]

Originally Posted by DeMello a tob?

throwout bearing...

its the bearing thats on the input shaft that slides with the clutch fork onto the pressure plate fingers. Basically its your connection between clutch cable and fork to the pressure plate/cltuch to the crankshaft...

[zinc02GT]

every single one of us at the exact same time...

[DeMello]

Originally Posted by zinc02GT Again, an idiot. In your case a stage 2 probably would have been your best bet because im sure you plan on doing more performance mods... Find a new mechanic

i really wanted a stage 2 one

im gonna get the steeda adjuster kit btw after the break in period....maybe it will fix the vibration?

[HMUSN]

sounds like you need one of these.

[DeMello]

Originally Posted by zinc02GT throwout bearing... its the bearing thats on the input shaft that slides with the clutch fork onto the pressure plate fingers. Basically its your connection between clutch cable and fork to the pressure plate/cltuch to the crankshaft...

how much do throwout bearings cost? and if he just did the clucth would he have still used the old bearing or put a new one on?

[zinc02GT]

Originally Posted by DeMello how much do throwout bearings cost? and if he just did the clucth would he have still used the old bearing or put a new one on?

from the sounds of this guy he prolly used every again...

Throwout bearings are about $45...

[00vabchgt]

holy shit, i actually got it posted before Doc did?

[HMUSN]

sorry I was being IM'd by someone.

poor kid was into monkeys or something...

[White Thunder]

you should have got a new tob with the new clutch....your mechnic is a fucking moron

[DeMello]

so ill ask him tomorrow if its a new tob and if its not it ill get a new one when i get the steeda adjuster kit

[DeMello]

Originally Posted by HMUSN sounds like you need one of these.

you could always donate it to the make demellos car faster fund