ABS brake bleeding

micldon · August 6th, 2008, 09:51 PM

I apologize if there is a post on this already. I did search and couldn't find much info on the subject. My question is about bleeding an ABS braking system once a large amount of brake fluid has been lost through a broken brake line on the rear of the vehicle. Doing the conventional brake bleeding procedure using a mighty-vac vacuum pump is not yielding me any good results. I can't seem to get the fluid through the system from the master cylinder. Is there a special tool that is needed to bleed the ABS part of the system? If so, what is the name of it? Thanks for any help on this. I have had a nightmare so far with this new Mach1 I just bought. First night out in it and the rear end locked up. I replaced it and now I can't seem to get the brakes to bleed. Thanks for any advice guys.

2kGT · August 7th, 2008, 09:48 PM

bump for ya - Im having brake issues myself. ABS FTMFL

micldon · August 8th, 2008, 04:47 AM

Thanks. After posting this, I did find a relatively cheap solution. I went to a local shop (Precision Tune) and had them do a flush and fill on the brake system. The cost was only $40.00, and now the breaks are great! If you are having a similiar problem this may work for you. They hook up a strong vacuum pump to the brake calipers and it sucks fluid all the way through the system. After that, they did a manual bleeding procedure (pump up brake, bleed farthest caliper.....then the next and so on). Hope this helps someone out!

2kGT · August 8th, 2008, 11:47 AM

I bled mine last night, but there wasnt any air in it. My wheels were all real hot after driving from the brakes dragging - which isnt really a symptom for air in the lines anyway - so I dont. Freakin A.

Trick Tuners · August 8th, 2008, 05:33 PM

Originally Posted by micldon

I apologize if there is a post on this already. I did search and couldn't find much info on the subject. My question is about bleeding an ABS braking system once a large amount of brake fluid has been lost through a broken brake line on the rear of the vehicle. Doing the conventional brake bleeding procedure using a mighty-vac vacuum pump is not yielding me any good results. I can't seem to get the fluid through the system from the master cylinder. Is there a special tool that is needed to bleed the ABS part of the system? If so, what is the name of it? Thanks for any help on this. I have had a nightmare so far with this new Mach1 I just bought. First night out in it and the rear end locked up. I replaced it and now I can't seem to get the brakes to bleed. Thanks for any advice guys.

Did you bleed the master first? That may have been the problem. If the car runs, and the brakes work, you can go out and slam on them in some dirt or water to cycle the ABS, then rebleed. Turning real sharp and hitting the brakes will also cycle the ABS.

micldon · August 8th, 2008, 07:34 PM

Thanks TrickTuners. Great advice but my whole system was almost dry after carelessly letting it drain from the banjo connections at the rear calipers. Never pays to get in a rush and be careless! I was adamant about getting her up and running though and the flush and fill did wonders. Probably would have taken me all day with my hand pump to get the fluid through the whole system again! I guess it didn't hurt to have new brake fluid anyways. It always seems to get neglected. As for 2kGT, it sounds to me like you might have some kind of brake assist problem. I will have to double check on this but you could have a bad brake booster that would keep constant pressure on your master cylinder. I have run into that problem before on a different car.

2kGT · August 9th, 2008, 09:49 PM

The question is, how do you trouble shoot it? Does the computer store a code that pinpoints the problem when the ABS light stays lit?

mpboy · August 9th, 2008, 09:56 PM

Originally Posted by Trick Tuners

Did you bleed the master first? That may have been the problem. If the car runs, and the brakes work, you can go out and slam on them in some dirt or water to cycle the ABS, then rebleed. Turning real sharp and hitting the brakes will also cycle the ABS.

+1 iv always heard if you let the ABS system dry up a shop has tools to i guess "prime" the ABS system.

Breakout · August 9th, 2008, 10:02 PM

Originally Posted by 2kGT

I bled mine last night, but there wasnt any air in it. My wheels were all real hot after driving from the brakes dragging - which isnt really a symptom for air in the lines anyway - so I dont. Freakin A.

sounds like a hung caliper

2kGT · August 10th, 2008, 09:35 AM

Originally Posted by breakout831

sounds like a hung caliper

all 4? Hmmm, not too likely without something wrong with the HCU.

Breakout · August 10th, 2008, 01:29 PM

didn't know it was all 4

August 6th, 2008, 09:51 PM	#1
micldon Newbie 03 Mach 1 Too slow Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Jacksonville, NC Posts: 11 iTrader: 0 reviews	ABS brake bleeding I apologize if there is a post on this already. I did search and couldn't find much info on the subject. My question is about bleeding an ABS braking system once a large amount of brake fluid has been lost through a broken brake line on the rear of the vehicle. Doing the conventional brake bleeding procedure using a mighty-vac vacuum pump is not yielding me any good results. I can't seem to get the fluid through the system from the master cylinder. Is there a special tool that is needed to bleed the ABS part of the system? If so, what is the name of it? Thanks for any help on this. I have had a nightmare so far with this new Mach1 I just bought. First night out in it and the rear end locked up. I replaced it and now I can't seem to get the brakes to bleed. Thanks for any advice guys. __________________ JLT CAI, Plenum Spacer, Steeda Triax, Aluminum flywheel and Driveshaft, 373 gears, Moser 31 spline axles & LPW diff cover, SSS ehaust, Sniper Tune, MT ETs, NX 150 Wet Shot, MSD window switch, MSD 2-Step.

August 7th, 2008, 09:48 PM	#2
2kGT Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Upstate SC Posts: 922 iTrader: 0 reviews	bump for ya - Im having brake issues myself. ABS FTMFL __________________ Accufab 75mm tb & plenum MRT h-pipe Flowmaster catback FRPP king cobra clutch FRPP aluminum driveshaft FRPP 4.10 gear TA Perfromance girdle Steeda tri-ax shifter Moser 31 spline axles FRPP C Springs

August 8th, 2008, 04:47 AM	#3
micldon Newbie 03 Mach 1 Too slow Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Jacksonville, NC Posts: 11 iTrader: 0 reviews	Thanks. After posting this, I did find a relatively cheap solution. I went to a local shop (Precision Tune) and had them do a flush and fill on the brake system. The cost was only $40.00, and now the breaks are great! If you are having a similiar problem this may work for you. They hook up a strong vacuum pump to the brake calipers and it sucks fluid all the way through the system. After that, they did a manual bleeding procedure (pump up brake, bleed farthest caliper.....then the next and so on). Hope this helps someone out! __________________ JLT CAI, Plenum Spacer, Steeda Triax, Aluminum flywheel and Driveshaft, 373 gears, Moser 31 spline axles & LPW diff cover, SSS ehaust, Sniper Tune, MT ETs, NX 150 Wet Shot, MSD window switch, MSD 2-Step.

August 8th, 2008, 11:47 AM	#4
2kGT Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Upstate SC Posts: 922 iTrader: 0 reviews	I bled mine last night, but there wasnt any air in it. My wheels were all real hot after driving from the brakes dragging - which isnt really a symptom for air in the lines anyway - so I dont. Freakin A. __________________ Accufab 75mm tb & plenum MRT h-pipe Flowmaster catback FRPP king cobra clutch FRPP aluminum driveshaft FRPP 4.10 gear TA Perfromance girdle Steeda tri-ax shifter Moser 31 spline axles FRPP C Springs

August 8th, 2008, 07:34 PM	#6
micldon Newbie 03 Mach 1 Too slow Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Jacksonville, NC Posts: 11 iTrader: 0 reviews	Thanks TrickTuners. Great advice but my whole system was almost dry after carelessly letting it drain from the banjo connections at the rear calipers. Never pays to get in a rush and be careless! I was adamant about getting her up and running though and the flush and fill did wonders. Probably would have taken me all day with my hand pump to get the fluid through the whole system again! I guess it didn't hurt to have new brake fluid anyways. It always seems to get neglected. As for 2kGT, it sounds to me like you might have some kind of brake assist problem. I will have to double check on this but you could have a bad brake booster that would keep constant pressure on your master cylinder. I have run into that problem before on a different car. __________________ JLT CAI, Plenum Spacer, Steeda Triax, Aluminum flywheel and Driveshaft, 373 gears, Moser 31 spline axles & LPW diff cover, SSS ehaust, Sniper Tune, MT ETs, NX 150 Wet Shot, MSD window switch, MSD 2-Step. Last edited by micldon; August 8th, 2008 at 07:44 PM.

August 9th, 2008, 09:49 PM	#7
2kGT Enthusiast Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Upstate SC Posts: 922 iTrader: 0 reviews	The question is, how do you trouble shoot it? Does the computer store a code that pinpoints the problem when the ABS light stays lit? __________________ Accufab 75mm tb & plenum MRT h-pipe Flowmaster catback FRPP king cobra clutch FRPP aluminum driveshaft FRPP 4.10 gear TA Perfromance girdle Steeda tri-ax shifter Moser 31 spline axles FRPP C Springs

August 10th, 2008, 01:29 PM	#11
Breakout Tree Fiddy Z 2006 Nissan 350Z Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Central Florida Posts: 2,018 iTrader: 0 reviews	didn't know it was all 4

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