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#1 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,354
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Need Suggestions...
Hey guys/gals well, im looking into making a build on my stang here in the future. But like everything, i want to do some research and ask what at all should i do.
Anyways, god willing if everything goes well, im looking at a budget of 10-12k, so what at all can i do with this kind of money...? At first i was thinking of a forged shortblock with a blower, specifically the MPH Mongoose Kit w/ a Vortech Supercharger. But at the moment i like the fact of being N/A and Nitrous. So what i want is a strong N/A performer and some nitrous for every now and again. So heres what i was thinking, not sure on what to think of all this... Strokers any good? i was looking at either MPH or Livernois and their Stroker shortblocks... MPH Modular PowerHouse Livernois New - Livernois Motorsports - 4.6L 2-Valve Modular 298ci Stroker Shortblock either of those with some ported pi heads with some stage 2 cams, how well would that work with a stalled auto? My current mods are: Accufab 70mm TB+Plenum Combo MAC CAI - will replace with a JLT or the like. Steeda U/D pulleys Mac Longtubes O/R X Pipe Magnaflow Catback Comp 262's (stage 1 n/a cams) 3800 stall converter 4.10's #'s: 283rwhp/301rwtq i believe my car has at least 12.70's in it with some weight reduction, current best in 12.90 @ 105 w/1.75 60'ft on 15x8 Centerline Telstars with 275/50 MT Drag Radials. Now, my only weight reducing mods are removed front sway bar and the racing wheels. Also, i have a little "clunk" of some sort coming from my engine bay, my buddy has told me it was a tensioner. Can anyone confirm what it sounds like...? If it is a tensioner is it a bad thing? I have ran the car a few times with this "noise" and the car seems to be running fine. Anyways, should i dump the cash on a new shortblock/heads/bigger cams or fix my current problem and just get UPR K Member kit, sub frame connectors, upper/lower control arms and what not and see where all that takes me...? I need some opinions, tho what i really would like is a forged shortblock to either maybe one day supercharge it or just shoot a 150 shot or more of dope.
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![]() N/A Auto 2-Valve 1.74' 60ft 12.79 @ 105.5 |
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#2 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,354
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hmm, no one eh....
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![]() N/A Auto 2-Valve 1.74' 60ft 12.79 @ 105.5 |
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#3 |
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WHOOP!
2002 Mustang GT
7.44@95 (1/8)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 3,128
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I wish I could help you. I'm going through the same decisions. Check out my thread: More Bad News
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![]() Buy my: Nitrous Accessories Diablosport Programmer In The Classifieds |
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#4 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,354
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bump....
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![]() N/A Auto 2-Valve 1.74' 60ft 12.79 @ 105.5 |
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#5 |
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mm's nitrous mod
2000 mustang gt
11.79@115.83 (old set up)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: N.W. AR
Posts: 12,430
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these motors dont lack any bottom end grunt, i dont recommend running a stroker if you plan on nitrous or a positive displacement. you can do a full hard n/a set up and run the squeeze on it if you want, but it wont be anywhere set up for boost.
that squaking sound is a belt or tensioner from what i can hear. |
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#6 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
2002 GT
99.99@999.9
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Spartanburg, SC
Posts: 1,851
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does it make that sound when its cold, if not also check your plugs, best way is to jiggle the COP's with it running, when my plug took a shit it sounded just like a tensinor/pulley/belt issue, and i was on the way to the store to get a new tensionor when it fried
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#7 |
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Hardcore Enthusiast
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,354
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makes the sound 24/7 hot or cold, as soon as i turn it on, its there.
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![]() N/A Auto 2-Valve 1.74' 60ft 12.79 @ 105.5 |
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